Felshampo Posted November 21, 2018 Report Share Posted November 21, 2018 I have a leak from behind the water pump (I think!). The photo shows about two hours cruising. Should I get this sorted? Is it an easy fix or should I just put up with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matty40s Posted November 21, 2018 Report Share Posted November 21, 2018 Just get yourself a Japanese lump and I will take the useless grey lump off your hands. Nothing to worry about, they leak, a Gardner that doesn't leak isn't being used.......if thats all I saw at the end of a cruise I would probably not have cruised far.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felshampo Posted November 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2018 17 minutes ago, matty40s said: Just get yourself a Japanese lump and I will take the useless grey lump off your hands. Nothing to worry about, they leak, a Gardner that doesn't leak isn't being used.......if thats all I saw at the end of a cruise I would probably not have cruised far.? So... What are you saying....... I just have to spend more time polishing it. ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamraiser2 Posted November 21, 2018 Report Share Posted November 21, 2018 An easy fix and not an uncommon place for a leak. A little gasket goop is probably the easiest route. Check that the pump to crankcase mating face is ok, sometimes they need a thicker joint or a shim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felshampo Posted November 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2018 5 minutes ago, steamraiser2 said: An easy fix and not an uncommon place for a leak. A little gasket goop is probably the easiest route. Check that the pump to crankcase mating face is ok, sometimes they need a thicker joint or a shim How easy will it be to remove the pump and apply the instant gasket stuff? Will I have to drain the cooling system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted November 21, 2018 Report Share Posted November 21, 2018 If the mating face of the housing is flat with no spigot it can be re surfaced if its a bit warped between the bolt holes by rubbing it on a sheet of fine emery or production paper upon a sheet of glass or better still a mirror until perfectly flat. Circular motion with no rocking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steamraiser2 Posted November 21, 2018 Report Share Posted November 21, 2018 3 minutes ago, Felshampo said: How easy will it be to remove the pump and apply the instant gasket stuff? Will I have to drain the cooling system? Easy enough and,yes,you will have to drain it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark99 Posted November 22, 2018 Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 (edited) When you refill it, use a 1 litre jug and rock your bote violently from side to side between litre fills and you may well hear air gurgling out of the expansion/header tank. And of course, bleed air from calorifier, and skin tank. Edited November 22, 2018 by mark99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felshampo Posted November 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 33 minutes ago, mark99 said: When you refill it, use a 1 litre jug and rock your bote violently from side to side between litre fills and you may well hear air gurgling out of the expansion/header tank. And of course, bleed air from calorifier, and skin tank. At the moment I am trying to trace the technical speck for the boat. The first two I know but the skin tank bleed I have no idea about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark99 Posted November 22, 2018 Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 26 minutes ago, Felshampo said: At the moment I am trying to trace the technical speck for the boat. The first two I know but the skin tank bleed I have no idea about. Follow the pipes from the pump. There may be a loop that follows your prop shaft and goes into the skin tank at rear swim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felshampo Posted November 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 36 minutes ago, mark99 said: Follow the pipes from the pump. There may be a loop that follows your prop shaft and goes into the skin tank at rear swim. I'll have a look at the weekend... Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matty40s Posted November 22, 2018 Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 (edited) 4 hours ago, Felshampo said: I'll have a look at the weekend... Cheers Being a Norton Canes, the bleed valve will be accessible. The first place to look is under the bench seat in the back cabin, the boats swim will start to come in here and chances are the skin tank will be on this side. There will probably be a cut out hole or access panel below the bench. If this side has the genset, then you may have to delve into the cupboards opposite to find the top of the skin tank, will probably be in the one that drops own to form the bed. You are looking for something like this.... Edited November 22, 2018 by matty40s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felshampo Posted November 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2018 Thanks I'll have a look this weekend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark99 Posted November 23, 2018 Report Share Posted November 23, 2018 (edited) Here is my piping Edited November 23, 2018 by mark99 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Felshampo Posted November 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2018 That all looks very familiar. I have only had the boat for a few months however so I am reluctant at the moment to take on draining the cooling system. Especially as I am still finding out where everything is. I have a long to do list, as I imagine does everyone. This will go on it now for next year. I want to do the oil in the gear box next as it has never been changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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