Jump to content

Felshampo

Member
  • Posts

    553
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Who bloody knows!
  • Boat Name
    Tilda

Recent Profile Visitors

3,797 profile views

Felshampo's Achievements

Proficient

Proficient (7/12)

61

Reputation

  1. Presumably you could hang onto the bridge while stamping on them to push them under......
  2. The ones in Nantwich still work. Could you use a youngman board in a lock wing? There's nowhere to attach it or get on it once in place. Your description is identical to how I saw it being done at a bridgehole on the Macclesfield. They had to stand on the dry planks to get them to sink so they could put in the next one. This is why I am skeptical of the suggestion that they used ropes to lower them in place.
  3. And impossible on this one! I think you need to look at the photos.
  4. That makes sense. Still looks difficult to put stop planks in here. They float so you need to push them down to put the next one in. I'd like to see it done.
  5. This wouldnt work here, unless you could walk on water.
  6. I suppose I was thinking in an emergency, when you needed to do it quickly. But maybe they always had the manpower available?
  7. OK. Quick disclaimer, I realise that stop planks need a recess in the wall so you can put them ino the slot. I foolishly asked this question on Facebook and most people said "thats what the indents for" and even had one person draw a diagram! This is still a daft question but...... How did the lock-keepers get the stop planks into the slot. I assume they didn't have a boat handy. Even if they did that would still seem a overly difficult task. Lowering the planks by rope is possible. Does anyone know the definitive answer or am I just being thick (again). The slots are half way between the gates and the end of the wing walls. The locks are on the run in to Chester on the Shroppie.
  8. Now then children please play nicely. It seems this thread about my 2LW has been taken over by a load of spanners.
  9. The bolts holding the diaphragm on are 2BA which is 4mm.
  10. Just thought I would follow up and let people know what has happened. Found a chap called Eric Ward who works at Walshes and lives near me. He had a look and at first thought it might be a sticking valve on the lift pump. So he removed it and gave it an overhaul. It was leaking from the diaphragm and the the valve needed replacing. This improved things. Still seemed to be a problem so he replaced the splayers. That has made a real difference and I have to say the engine now starts quicker than it has ever done since I've had it. The only thing left would be to overhaul the fuel pump. Eric was reluctant to do that, especially when I said it had been done 5 years ago by Walshes. He reckons it was probably him who had reconditioned it! I was impressed by how quickly and easily Eric and Claudia, his missus who also works at Walshes, were able to remove and replace the pump and splayers. If you know what your doing these really are easy engines to work on. Having the right spanners also helps, we needed four types including Whitworths and BA (I'd never heard of the latter)
  11. Charles did the overhaul 4 years ago. Top man.
  12. I'm in Nantwich at the moment, but thanks anyway.
  13. I'll bear that in mind, thanks.
  14. I've got someone coming to replace the injectors next weekend. If that doesn't work then it looks like the fuel pump from what you have all said. It was calibrated by Walshes 4 years ago so I hope it's not that. I'll post on here when I find out.
  15. To be honest I've also not had a problem starting until now. I haven't been pulling the priming before so don't know what they were like.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.