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Radice Shaft Seal

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After ongoing problems I have fitted a Radice unit. About 80 quid and first impressions are good. It is very like the popular Volvo unit, but has the advantages of a vent pipe and a grease point. Straight fit from the previous unit and I fitted afloat with not much water ingress (plastic bag tied around outer prop shaft.)

 

http://www.elicheradice.com/axial-seal-rmta-rtmo-type/&m58LangNew=ENG

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Taslim Rising Star

TaslimDonate to Canal World

Posted
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After ongoing problems I have fitted a Radice unit. About 80 quid and first impressions are good. It is very like the popular Volvo unit, but has the advantages of a vent pipe and a grease point. Straight fit from the previous unit and I fitted afloat with not much water ingress (plastic bag tied around outer prop shaft.)

 

http://www.elicheradice.com/axial-seal-rmta-rtmo-type/&m58LangNew=ENG

Thats' got to be worth bookmarking especially if it's good for 30 Knots. Tee! Hee! Water ski.

 

Seriously. Will the grease point connect to the existing system and where did you lead the vent pipe?

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I fitted what appears to be the same unit at the end of April when I was out for blacking. Not had a drop of water in since. Got mine from Mick Sievright at Aqueduct for about the same price.

That is where mine came from. A very helpful company in my experience (no connection.)

The previous lip seal of a different make that I fitted just a year ago has worn a serious pair of grooves (and I mean serious) in the shaft, but the Radice is slightly shorter and runs on "new" shaft. Time will tell, but it looks the business.

Thats' got to be worth bookmarking especially if it's good for 30 Knots. Tee! Hee! Water ski.

 

Seriously. Will the grease point connect to the existing system and where did you lead the vent pipe?

It doesn't connect to a manual greaser, and just requires a drop of silicone grease every so often through a little cap (can't remember without checking instructions but possibly 300 hrs)

The vent pipe goes through a connection in the weedhatch on my boat, just above the waterline (already fitted on my boat for previous seal.)

I understand that yachties just fasten a pipe as high as possible within the bilges when using this seal.

It needs forced water at 30 knots :)

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Wow....so this would mean no stern grease, packing...etc...?

But the 30 knots, bit?

That is the idea. I have seen numerous narrowboats with the very similar Volvo seal fitted and the owners have reported good results, so here is hoping.

 

They are made for different types of pleasure boat other than canal use, and are reputed to be suitable for maximum 30 knots. They need a fprced water feed at those speeds it would seem.

i dont know trent was pretty fast help.gif

I made 6 knots on the Thames! Fastest my boat has ever been (except when on a wagon once, but it was going astern then.)

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I'm tempted to give it a go, or certainly make some more enquiries.

Sounds like a device of wonder to me so far.

 

Can if be fitted in situ, whilst I'm floating in the glory of the Sheffield Navigation?

I strongly advise you take some advice first as to your present setup etc. but many seem to have fitted these type of seals with traditional stern gear, especially on the yachty forums and suchlike. The similar Volvo unit has been around for many years.

 

I fitted ours afloat but it can be a bit scary! It is a job that should be done in a drydock, but mine was leaking so badly there wasn't a great deal to lose. I packed a plastic bag against the stern tube from the weedhatch, and cable tied it in place. This held most of the water back whilst the old unit was removed, and the new one fitted (five minutes to change them over, biggest job is unbolting everything.) The bilge pump cut in and out and easily coped with the incoming water, but if unsure, a second pair of hands stood by with a wet vac might be in order.

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I can see it now yes mr insurance company it happened like this.......................................................................

Run it aground, problem solved. Too much of this nanny state stuff smile.png

On a serious note, it was a bit scary first time I changed ours afloat. I was surprised how little water came aboard though, but then the prop on a NB is not as deep in the water as a yacht for example.

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peterboat Veteran II

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Shut it Peter Boat....!

...and I was planning you'd be fitting it anyways! smile.png x

perfik i will practice on yours before doing mine then only the tiger boat will be sunk help.gif

Run it aground, problem solved. Too much of this nanny state stuff smile.png

On a serious note, it was a bit scary first time I changed ours afloat. I was surprised how little water came aboard though, but then the prop on a NB is not as deep in the water as a yacht for example.

I am going to contact them my stern gland has been a problem from day one and on holiday both spacyface and my bilge pumps packed up right pain so I am willing to give it a whirl

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Steve_C Engager

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That is where mine came from. A very helpful company in my experience (no connection.)

The previous lip seal of a different make that I fitted just a year ago has worn a serious pair of grooves (and I mean serious) in the shaft, but the Radice is slightly shorter and runs on "new" shaft. Time will tell, but it looks the business

As you say they are helpful. The rubber ring which sits on the prop is much softer than the ring on the old unit. The only minor difficulty I had was removing the plastic protective sleeve after the unit was fitted. It did not look as though it would be up to the required strength to remove it though ultimately it was. I think Mick said they should be good for minimum of 8 years.

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As you say they are helpful. The rubber ring which sits on the prop is much softer than the ring on the old unit. The only minor difficulty I had was removing the plastic protective sleeve after the unit was fitted. It did not look as though it would be up to the required strength to remove it though ultimately it was. I think Mick said they should be good for minimum of 8 years.

I didn't get told the 8 years bit, so that is encouraging. Yes the seals are softer than the previous unit I had, so hopefully won't file the shaft down.

I found a little fairy liquid on the insert sleeve thing helped a bit, though agree it was a little tight. Might be better a bit thinner?

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blackrose Veteran II

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After ongoing problems I have fitted a Radice unit. About 80 quid and first impressions are good. It is very like the popular Volvo unit, but has the advantages of a vent pipe and a grease point. Straight fit from the previous unit and I fitted afloat with not much water ingress (plastic bag tied around outer prop shaft.)

 

http://www.elicheradice.com/axial-seal-rmta-rtmo-type/&m58LangNew=ENG

I thought you had a Vetus unit before? Did it start leaking?

 

If it was wearing the shaft it may have been because not enough water was getting through the gland to lubricate it, in which case you might find that the same thing happens again. The pipe to the weedhatch just allows water through - on a Vetus gland most water will come through the gland itself rather than the other way around.

 

Strictly speaking, the water inlet to the gland should be connected to a scoop skin fitting or raw water supply. Narrowboat builders only got away with connecting them to the weedhatch because of the relatively slow speeds we travel at. It works without the scoop simply because the gland is immersed in water and the pipe to the weedhatch is just there as an attempt to prevent pressure build up.

 

Does your new gland have channels to allow water in to lubricate it like the Vetus gland?

 

I've taken the front off mine before and there was minimal wear on the shaft. If does happen you can always just move the shaft 5mm in one direction or the other to stop a leak, but as I said, it may indicate that not enough water is getting through.

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I thought you had a Vetus unit before? Did it start leaking?

 

If it was wearing the shaft it may have been because not enough water was getting through the gland to lubricate it, in which case you might find that the same thing happens again. The pipe to the weedhatch just allows water through - on a Vetus gland most water will come through the gland itself rather than the other way around.

 

Strictly speaking, the water inlet to the gland should be connected to a scoop skin fitting or raw water supply. Narrowboat builders only got away with connecting them to the weedhatch because of the relatively slow speeds we travel at. It works without the scoop simply because the gland is immersed in water and the pipe to the weedhatch is just there as an attempt to prevent pressure build up.

 

Does your new gland have channels to allow water in to lubricate it like the Vetus gland?

 

I've taken the front off mine before and there was minimal wear on the shaft. If does happen you can always just move the shaft 5mm in one direction or the other to stop a leak, but as I said, it may indicate that not enough water is getting through.

Hi Mike

Being very careful not to libel myself:

The early Vetus seal on my unit was for the best part fine (even though had been fitted incorrectly from new by the boatbuilder, and the seals were damaged.) Last year I had to change it after approx ten years 2500 hrs cruising. There was a very minimal amount of wear on the shaft at this point. When changing it I found that Vetus have modified the design, using what appears to be standard oil seals, as opposed to the previous purpose made seal. Since then it has eaten the shaft at an alarming rate, after only 1 year and around 600 hrs cruising. The only thing being changed is the Vetus seal; all pipework, stern bearing etc as before. Water was pouring in when I engaged reverse gear.

 

By using the shorter Radice seal, I am now running on "new shaft" and this has saved me from having to slip and replace the shaft (80 quid as opposed to several hundred.) I can only gamble on this and if indeed the shaft continues to wear, I will likely switch to a PSS seal which doesn't rely on the shaft to seal it. This would be a haul out job, so would hopefully coincide with next blacking.

Discalimer: I am not implying that the Vetus seal for the shaft damage, but merely reporting my findings, which will be added to my website when time permits.

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