Ceiling Battens

[G Man]

Hello,

 

We're currently fitting out our recently purchased narrow boat, and our general method is, rip it all out

 

We've currently took down most of the front half back to the shell, and I need to replace some of the wooden ceiling battens that came down with the ceiling. Some of the wood was very old, and due to previously leaking vents or screw holes had rotted at some point.

 

When replacing the ceiling battens do I need to run them width ways, meaning having to bend the wood, or can I run them length ways? we're planning on putting 8x4 plywood on the ceiling so no need for width ways for T&G. There are screw holes in the roof, 3 I think in a width (middle, center left, center right), so I was planning on running the new length along these holes, using a mixture of new screws and industrial grip adhesive for extra measure

 

But is there a reason I shouldn't do this? I can't imagine the wooden battens needed for hull strength, and the thought of having to bend the wood and it at some point wanting to bend back to it's original shape isn't pleasant.

 

Many more questions soon to follow

 

Cheers,

J

[Burgiesburnin]

If you run the battens width ways then you can run the tongue and groove length ways which gives the illusion of length. By running the battens length ways you will put the tongue and groove width ways.

I'm sure that its immaterial for the integrity of the existing structure.

[NB Watersnail]

We did lengthways. 4 battens if I recall. Screwed into the steel roof bearers. Then 6mm ply over the top, and t&g on the ply. Meant we had fixing for the t&g wherever we wanted. But, my interpretation is that you're not t&g liking, just ply. There will be some pics of our battens in Watersnails build blog on this forum.

[DHutch]

If using sheet material, I cant see an issue with running them length ways. As said, if using tongue and groove they basically have to run cross ways. Most roofs are only mildly curved so cold-forming the wood isnt not a issue.

 

 

Daniel

[ditchcrawler]

My batons look as if they are 18mm ply wood strips and they go across the boat

[G Man]

Okay that's great guys, sounds as if i can run them length ways then. We are doing 6 mm ply on the ceiling, but will then do T&G on the walls coming down, another question actually is should I seal/paint the wood before putting it on for water proofing reason? I'll paint it all after it's up anyway, but just thought it as we're essentially starting from scratch now's the chance for these sort of precautions

 

Cheers,

J

[Chalky]

I ran the battens width ways. I used tanalized timber and the trick was to buy timber that had just been tanalised and was still very wet. This allowed it to be easily bent without any problems. We used T&G so didn't have a lot of options.

[The Bagdad Boatman (waits)]

R&W Davis at Saul on the G&S spray paint and rub down their t&g, looks superb.

[DHutch]

There is a lot to be said for 'backing' a board with a coat of something on the other side, to prevent a lot of the effects cupping/swelling. However assuming your not expecting to have leaks in the roof anymore, and a working vapour trap, I am not sure I would worry too much about painting the bits that are unseen.

 

 

Daniel

[smileypete]

There is a lot to be said for 'backing' a board with a coat of something on the other side, to prevent a lot of the effects cupping/swelling. However assuming your not expecting to have leaks in the roof anymore, and a working vapour trap, I am not sure I would worry too much about painting the bits that are unseen.

 

Yeah, trouble is everyone naively assumes/not expects that.

 

If the timber is backprimed, it's fairly safe to assume the window/opening sealing has had the same attention to detail - and vice versa.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited May 17, 2015 by smileypete

[Murflynn]

bearing in mind you will need cross battens at the joints in the plywood anyway, I would use cross battens. These will avoid the risk of the ply tending to flatten out between long battens.

 

not difficult to do curved cross battens - just laminate several thicknesses of ply or softwood strip, bracing off the floor with 2x2 timbers at 3 places while the glue (polyurethane??) sets

[DHutch]

...polyurethane...

 

I have not used it a lot, but everything about polyurethane glue I know of is to be liked.

 

 

 

Daniel

[John V]

about 12 years ago I was building my wheelhouse door frames, they were to be bolted to the steel wheelhouse but to ensure they were glued at the correct angles/plane I bolted them to the steelwork while the polyeurethane glue set, intending to remove them for priming/painting before final fixing...........You have probably guessed it................there was enough squeezed from the joints to permanently bond the frames to the steel.

[Murflynn]

actually I find it doesn't bond very well unless the surfaces are degreased and slightly damp.

it is very sticky but doesn't actually seem to bond to smooth surfaces.

when cleaning it off it is easy with a spatula, even on wood. it just comes away in flakes leaving the surface clean.

but for a ceiling lining it will do just fine as long as you don't hang a swing chair from it and bang on the roof with a sledgehammer!

Edited May 17, 2015 by Murflynn

[smileypete]

actually I find it doesn't bond very well unless the surfaces are degreased and slightly damp.

it is very sticky but doesn't actually seem to bond to smooth surfaces.

when cleaning it off it is easy with a spatula, even on wood. it just comes away in flakes leaving the surface clean.

but for a ceiling lining it will do just fine as long as you don't hang a swing chair from it and bang on the roof with a sledgehammer!

 

AIUI planing wood closes up the cells and gives it a kind of glazed appearance, a bit of rough sanding should make a big difference.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

[G Man]

Cheers everone for the advice, I might still prime the back of the boards because as you said smileypete, it's possible it will leak again at some point, so belt and braces approach gives better peace of mind

 

Also good point Murflynn about the end of the boards sagging, I might still try to do length way battens (possible because I've already started ), but have some short pieces in between at the ends, plus I'm planning on using celotex type insulation so the should give some sturdeyness behind the boards.

 

Further to this, for the bathroom I'm planning on plywood with fake tile boards on top (this type of stuff), and will be having a bath with a shower. Do people usually have an additional layer of water proofing in between, like a waterproof plastic sheet material, or just prime the boards with waterproof paint and seal the top layer as well as possible? I was also thinking of having some sort of gutter/tray under the seals of the bath so that if (when) the seal ever does break and leak, it won't go straight the the wood and I'll notice before it become too much of a problem to fix.

 

Cheers all,

J

[Traveller]

Edited as what I said has already been said.

 

Note to self - read thread in full before posting

Edited May 19, 2015 by Traveller

[smileypete]

Further to this, for the bathroom I'm planning on plywood with fake tile boards on top (this type of stuff), and will be having a bath with a shower. Do people usually have an additional layer of water proofing in between, like a waterproof plastic sheet material, or just prime the boards with waterproof paint and seal the top layer as well as possible? I was also thinking of having some sort of gutter/tray under the seals of the bath so that if (when) the seal ever does break and leak, it won't go straight the the wood and I'll notice before it become too much of a problem to fix.

 

There's an install manual here which may help:

 

http://www.showerwall.co.uk/pdfs/showerwall-installation-instructions-jul14.pdf

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

[scb61]

I also have had to install a new ceiling on my recently purchased boat due to the ceiling having dropped

I stripped it out and rubbed down the rust off the ceiling surface and re-painted it

 

I also used tanalised 2 X1 inch wood cut to size and fitted width ways across the ceiling. I was able to fit these along side 1 inch steel baton type things that the original ceiling had been supported from,

 

The curvature of the ceiling meant the wooden batons had to be held up in position by 3 acrows! and screwed into via and through the existing steel batons - I also used 'Lumberjack' adhesive which appears very effective

 

The acrows were removed and everything seems solid now - I have done about 2/3rds of the ceiling in the boat now and nothing has since moved even though the wooden batons had to be bent a fair bit to fit the roof

 

So i recommend 'Lumberjack' adhesive!!