scb61

Hello - thanks for the reply - we made our own polytunnel with a wooden frame and a bought in polytunnel sheet and apart from the condensation drips it is doing a great job so far - the boat is on hard standing.

Hello - I am also at the painting stage of my narrowboat and wondered if any updates to the above information are available as it seems a bit dated? I was thinking of the Zinc/Phosphate based primers and then International undercoats and top coats on a 4/3/3 basis for number of coats. Had the devil of a time getting the boat back to metal and especially removing the 'millscale' and I found it impossible to obtain a drydock for painting as they always seem booked up!

Thank you for the response - we are not trying to do anything out of the ordinary, just fit a standard kitchen and a standard bathroom - 3 waste outlets, the shower is pumped so we can easily achieve the 10 inch guideline, but the 2 sinks??? A standard kitchen carcass and top gives a height from the floor of 3ft and with a sink (the shallowest we can find) and a waste pipe fitted straight out to the hull it is impossible to achieve a 10inch clearance. The bathroom vanity unit is the same, so I can't help but wonder who writes the regulations and have they thought through the practicalities of them. We either fit the sinks at chest height or have all the waste pumped or ignore the guidelines. Research suggests that it is the top of the sink that can be used as the 10inch upper level but I don't see this in the regulations - it all seems a little ambiguous with no definitive or workable guideline, complying with BSC is one thing but we would like to meet any insurance requirements as well - something will have to give and I imagine it will just be apply common sense and do it as best as you can to meet the regs As for gas copper pipe bore size - oh dear oh dear - is it just on boats??

It is a private boat being refurbished

Thank you, that information will be very helpful Steve

Hello again - I am back for more advice if you don't mind? I am approaching the part of my NB refurbishment where the bathroom and kitchen are ready to be installed - In respect of the waste water plumbing I had planned on using PVC pipe connected with solve weld, a bit of research here and elsewhere would suggest this is not the way forward and 'clear pvc hose with a polyester yarn' is the correct way forward. Is this because of the flexibility of the pipe? Can anyone advise as to what the ID or OD of the pvc pipe should be? Also are special fittings required to connect this to standard sink/shower wastes? Finally (for now) I have existing holes for the outlets but not all of these are 10 inches above the water line, reading here and elsewhere this is not an issue in respect of the BSC as consideration is given to the height of the sinks from the waterline and the use of NRV's - can anyone confirm that this would be acceptable for insurance purposes? I would hope that if a boat was BSC compliant that would suffice. The shower waste will be pumped with a whale gulp pump 220 12V as it seems to be suitable but of course the spec doesn't give any info on inlet/outlet pipe diameter -if anyone has any reason why I should choose an alternative please speak up! Many thanks again for any and all advice received Steve

I am planning on a 5kw heater and trv’s on the radiators thanks for your advice Steve

Hello again and once more I am seeking advice in respect of plumbing, this time a webasto/eberspacher heating system (not yet purchased), my understanding, which is often flawed, says that the flow and return to radiators etc should be in 22mm pipework to ensure the load on the pump is not excessive, with 15mm branches to each radiator. The question I have relates to how best to plumb the radiators and calorifier when they are split equally on either side of the boat (I cannot relocate the radiators or continue the plumbing around the boat to come back down the other side, I am stuck with what I have). I appear to have 2 options to have 2 flow and returns in 22mm one for each side of the boat and attempt to balance them when running (I plan on using a flow and return manifold ) but is it acceptable to plumb these in 15mm pipe on the outputs of the manifolds as that would work out at 30mm pipework for both the flow and return in the hope that this will be ok for the pump load. The pipework supplying the manifolds would be in 22mm. Or should I stick with both legs being plumbed in 22mm? - I worry that the flow would be really poor this way. As always many thanks in advance for all advice received and apologies if I have failed to explain myself adequately! Steve

I currently have an old built in water tank that is pretty grotty, it is a large tank forming the front end of the boat and it has an inspection hatch on the front deck which lets in rain water - it is awful and I plan to over plate the lot including the water inspection hatch/filler point, their is a bulkhead inside the boat for the water tank which I will cut out in so far as to allow a new stainless water tank to be slipped in. The idea of having this tank with a syphon arrangement rather than a low point take off was not something I had thought of. I would be interested to know of which of the Jabsco pumps you use? I am told I need I need about 11lpm flow and I am currently looking at a Jabsco Par Max 2.9 which is quite affordable for me.

Again thank you and to all the other contributors here helping to educate me!

Well I am glad I asked the question: On the cold water supply the accumulator stops the pump from hunting/switching unnecessarily and the calorifier is a part of the pressurised system with a pressurised expansion tank - if I am correct with that then I am good to go! The CHS I am ok with.

Thank you, I begin to understand - the expansion tank is a part of the closed loop CHS and not connected to the hot water - brilliant many thanks!

Ah I saw the schematic but didn't see your attached comments - many thanks Perhaps I am just awkward but what I don't understand is that the calorifier with its associated expansion tank are not pressurised? and then my logic would suggest the only pressure is the effect of gravity in the calorifier? The hot water outlet is at the top so perhaps then the calorifier is pressurised - but if it were then the expansion tank would fill up ?? I should obviously take it at face value but I like to understand how things work

That is the diagram I am using if honest and I suppose I should just accept that as being the way it is done but as an engineer (albeit electrical) it is always nice to have a good understanding.

Good Morning I am hoping to 'plumb' the depths of knowledge of some of you experienced narrowboat people again! Many thanks in advance. I am researching the plumbing systems for my narrowboat as we are not far from that part of the refurbishment, we have nothing at the minute. I am quite happy with the waste systems for taps and showers as that seems straightforward and I have researched quite extensively the water supply side but I am a big fan of experience and I have a couple of points where guidance/opinion would be greatly appreciated. I am planning on installing a calorifier in one of the kitchen cupboards as their isn't a lot of room in the engine compartment and I like the convenience of it being so close to the shower and tap outlets, I will be using a Webasto CHS and I don't plan on hooking up the engine cooling system. I was hoping to install the water pump near to the calorifier but my research indicates that this would be better as close to the cold water tank as possible? I believe that pumps are available now that negate the requirement for an Accumulator? The main area of uncertainty is how the hot water is pumped - on all schematics I have seen only the one pump is used to pump cold water to the cold taps and the calorifier. Am I correct in thinking that when I open a hot water tap the drop in pressure will switch the cold water pump on and it will be that pressure that allows hot water to flow? I can't see how the a drop in pressure can be felt on an unpressurised system such as the hot water? For the cold water system that is easily understood because the cold water system is pressurised but the hot water system with expansion tank and calorifier is not, so I am unsure of decent water flow from the hot taps/shower In a domestic house their is usually a 3 way pump fitted at the immersion tank to move the hot water but not on a narrowboat?

Many thanks for your comments which are always very helpful for a novice like me - I have decided to go with the normal chimney flue and not the twin wall My next question concerns plumbing systems - stand by any experts please!!

Good Evening and a Merry Christmas to you all - I am installing a new log burner in my narrowboat and I am a novice in many respects, I would like to install the new twin wall system to comply with new regulations, however I am finding it extremely difficult to source a new chimney collar. My (limited) understanding would indicate that the existing 6" hole in the steel roof will need to be increased to 8" to allow the twin wall flue to pass through and into the chimney collar, I am unable to locate the new type of chimney collar required to accept the twin wall flue anywhere and would be very grateful for any assistance offered

That's great many thanks for all of the advice !!

I wonder if anyone here could jog my memory and provide a link to site where someone can research a narrowboats history I am hoping to search for data regarding the manufacture of a boat being purchased by a friend and I have in the past been pointed to a site where you can do this Many thanks in advance Steve

Thank you for the information on the Heritage Uno - it seems to be what I am looking for, but it is very expensive to buy!! I may look at the second hand market first before spending such a large amount of money

I also have had to install a new ceiling on my recently purchased boat due to the ceiling having dropped I stripped it out and rubbed down the rust off the ceiling surface and re-painted it I also used tanalised 2 X1 inch wood cut to size and fitted width ways across the ceiling. I was able to fit these along side 1 inch steel baton type things that the original ceiling had been supported from, The curvature of the ceiling meant the wooden batons had to be held up in position by 3 acrows! and screwed into via and through the existing steel batons - I also used 'Lumberjack' adhesive which appears very effective The acrows were removed and everything seems solid now - I have done about 2/3rds of the ceiling in the boat now and nothing has since moved even though the wooden batons had to be bent a fair bit to fit the roof So i recommend 'Lumberjack' adhesive!!

I hope this isn't covered anywhere here, but if it is then my apologies but I couldn't find it! I would very much appreciate some advice regarding heating and cooking on my narrowboat. I would like if possible to use the same fuel for the engine and a range, also using the range to feed a calorifier and a few radiators I am a newcomer to boating and this is my first boat ! There appears a good selection of smokeless fuel and wood ranges that would do a job for me but if I were able to utilise diesel as a means of fuel it would negate the requirement to load the range all the time. Is there a diesel option available as I can't find one but have heard of diesel conversion kits? Also those with SFW ranges how much is involved in operating them? do you need to store numerous bags of coal? how often (roughly) would you fill them up? Finally, is there an issue with ballast on a narrowboat - my boat is 52ft and ranges seem to be installed in wide beam boats Should I just buy a diesel powered CHS system and stick with the gas system I have? Many thanks in advance Steve

Many thanks for the replies and the advice offered - I will look into plastic tanks and if they are a more affordable option i may well opt for them I will look at the existing water tank and if it looks like i might get stuck inside it if i attempt to clean and paint it i might just get a replacement, although looking at the logistics i think that must involve lifting up a section of flooring

I recently purchased a second hand narrowboat that had been unused for 2 years - delighted with it and hope to get it into shape enough to live on for a large part of the week at least Engine was difficult but my son is a briliant mechanial engineer and i do the electric/electronics. After conking out twice the fuel has been cleaned and fuel filters x 2 changed, oil changed, air filter changed, coolant changed (40 litres on a LPW3!!) and a new starter motor that took a while to source Undaunted i am well pleased with progress and the engine runs beautifully!! Next is water and whilst at it I am keen to lift the flooring and install a new water tank and fit a waste tank (it only has a chemical toilet and i am not much good at those things) These tanks in Stainless Steel are circa £750 and I will pay it because i need at least 1 new one for waste toilet but I have done some research on a paint that is plasticised and may be a cheaper option or a bladder type liner that may work - do any of you have any experience of this I have read a comment in the archive about a company in Southampton that manufacture these things, but wondered if anyone hear could add to that Also pulled all the internal panelling down as the boat had suffered some condensation and it had sagged so plan on using kingspan and rewiring at the same time - lovely 0.75W LED lamps seem a good option - again if anyone knows anything to the contrary I would appreciate any feedback Many thanks - here's hoping i might one day be in a position to perhaps offer some advice rather than seeking it scb

That is great, thank you - Malaika is the boat I have just bought - not much information in respect of steel thickness etc but still it is more info than i had previously