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W+T

A Wee one to start again.

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Dd i get your hopes up for something exciting Tony, sorry lol.

 

Well this week, First off got a mooring all sorted and paid for as of today :) Found it last week and finalised it today. It on the Lancaster a Cabus Nook. Cheap as chips and as i like them. Quiet.

 

Work on the boat, well i got a xmas pressie just in time to make this job easier, no pics as it is boring, it is a Makita Multi tool. that could be the last tool i need ( who am i trying to kid )but for a mobile table saw maybe.

 

I have trimmed back the edges of the ply lining ready to be plined out so just now needs a quick sand over and get rid of all the dust to do so. First though it will be varnished inside. I fettled the canopy frame so its good to go, well the welds need to be neatened up a bit , Still not easy to Tig weld with bad fingers and elbows, now the welding mas is on its way out.

 

I made a few Iroko risers for the front canopy mounts but these will be replaced with either SS or Ally when i get around to it. Its not a priority to launch.

 

 

So when folded down the frame all lies down level. Also i moved the riser mount further back so this gives a better access to get on and off the boat. 

 

20190107-120202.jpg

 

 

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Now you see this area, i have made and yet to fit in place once i get the weather. 90 deg angles to get a better contact for the canopy to fit to instead of the steep angle for the turn button to attach on to.

 

I got a length of 65mm square down pipe and used that as a mould. 

 

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I used some basting tape that arrived for making the canopy ( fine double sided tape ) and used tinfoil for releasing. 

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Blending combo matting together as using off cuts, feather edges to get a more level finish.

 

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Can barley see the join ;)

 

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That job a said will be done soon enough, but asap as i need it done for the canopy patterns to be made.

 

And as we speak look what arrived at last :):)  8m of Top Gun canvas and windows with size 10 zips, and 1oz 450m of V69 thread.

 

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So time to practice my sewing on this. Will be `trying` to make a canopy for this with cheaper but same weight canvas. I knocked up this frame up Friday morning. 

 

 

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Now i wish i didnt, but doing corners are a pain in the arse to sew but atleast there will not be any on the boat canopy. 20mm SHS 1.6 wall and a dozen slits and it bent just nice.

 

 

20190109-120447.jpg

 

 

And there we go, one thing, well another, i should of painted it first but weather was against me. Darn masking tape would not stick to well to the rusty frame so when i went to amend the pattern the masking tape come away with the basting tape on the pattern material. 

 

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So 25mm masking tape then 10mm basting tape.

 

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etc etc

 

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All that was easy enough to do, And would of been easier if i didnt rush it and think more of how i wanted the thing to be finished. As in hems and joins and wot not. 

 

Sooooo my sewing. Its ok could do neater lock stitch`s but this is the first panel, and ok the corners are a mess here. Enjoying it though.

 

This cheap canvas at £6pm towards the Top Gun at £25pm, no way am i going to waste that on this practice.

 

I am over the moon with the sewing machine, easy to set up and use and can do seven layers of this canvas with ease, 

 

front trailer cover panel done. The rear will have a zipped door roll up type.

 

 20190112-171952.jpg

 

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Atleast these corners will not be seen, but then the top and sides will need to be better as these will come around  the corners to overlap these.

 

Piggin nora...why did i do a radius

 

20190112-172034.jpg

 

 

I have done a few more small jobs like faff with the engine lid and look for materials for this and that. All boat related stuff is a step ahead. 

 

 

Captain Faffer :):)

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Wayne,  what an inspiring blog. Started reading it last night and found it hard to stop. You've  done some beautiful work and have brought this boat so far, it's  amazing. I found your story while looking for info on a dawncraft and have to tell you, I'll  be going back over this blog for help when I'm  doing up my boat. Thank you and keep going, John

 

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5 hours ago, Naughty Cal said:

So come on what is the progress with this hood?

You seen the  weather. that cold the dam tape wont stick to make the patterns. I got the pattern for the top section near done then it started to bloody rain. In the end i give up as i was just wasting good time so got on with the inside sanding it all back good ready for lining out. I started the varnishing inside but i made a mess of it and is full of runs so that will be sanded back here and there. Next time i will roll and sponge the varnish on to give a thinner coat, will need a few more coats but better than faffing sanding it back.

 

Gutted as i had a week of to get some work done on the canopy but still time. Its more cash flow now thats going to hold me back to get it launched as a few things have come up. always something. Still i am sure it will ready for the 18th May 2019. Not 100% done but enough. 

 

Oh yes steering is near all set up, new cables etc.  Just looking for some stainless steel plate for the outboard mount.

 

Captain Faffer :)

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Ours has been out of the water for a month now and we have done the sum total of very little on it!

 

Cleaned the inside of the canopy and that is it. 

 

On the plus side good progress is being made on jobs on the house. Current thinking is we might extend the period ashore another month or two until we get more work done at home.

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16 hours ago, W+T said:

 I started the varnishing inside but i made a mess of it and is full of runs so that will be sanded back here and there. Next time i will roll and sponge the varnish on to give a thinner coat, will need a few more coats but better than faffing sanding it back

 

If I remember cores you you are using Le Tonkinous varnish.

 

If so try using sponge brushes. I found they virtually eliminated runs when I used them with Le Tonk on the exterior woodwork of my deckboard.

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2 hours ago, cuthound said:

 

If I remember cores you you are using Le Tonkinous varnish.

 

If so try using sponge brushes. I found they virtually eliminated runs when I used them with Le Tonk on the exterior woodwork of my deckboard.

I use sponge brushes exclusively with Le Tonk 

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Congratulations on your work so far. You are a braver man than me!

I had a fibreglass cruiser and now a steel NB.

One of the reasons I gave up on the cruiser was I kept hitting the prop on either the bottom of the canal,or some rubbish. (outboard powered)

Outboards need about 3ft of water which is not always guaranteed so now you are getting close to using your boat,may I pass on a tip.

Two types of lifting the outboard, 1,fixed in the down position with a lever to release the mechanism allowing the engine to swing up.

                                                    2,Hanging loose but with a pin that engages the locking mechanism when reverse is selected. (this is also known as "shallow water drive")

The second is best for canal use as it allows the engine to swing up when it hits an obstruction.

If your motor is of the first type then it is best to rig up a cable to operate the release mechanism,not forgetting to unrelease it when you need reverse,not like me entering a lock,forgetting about the release giving the motor a burst of reverse engine rising up,

me rapidly shutting the throttle and the engine coming down with a hell of a bang!

If you know about this already,then just ignore this post.

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22 hours ago, W+T said:

You seen the  weather. that cold the dam tape wont stick to make the patterns. I got the pattern for the top section near done then it started to bloody rain. In the end i give up as i was just wasting good time so got on with the inside sanding it all back good ready for lining out. I started the varnishing inside but i made a mess of it and is full of runs so that will be sanded back here and there. Next time i will roll and sponge the varnish on to give a thinner coat, will need a few more coats but better than faffing sanding it back.

 

Gutted as i had a week of to get some work done on the canopy but still time. Its more cash flow now thats going to hold me back to get it launched as a few things have come up. always something. Still i am sure it will ready for the 18th May 2019. Not 100% done but enough. 

 

Oh yes steering is near all set up, new cables etc.  Just looking for some stainless steel plate for the outboard mount.

 

Captain Faffer :)

 

19 hours ago, Naughty Cal said:

Ours has been out of the water for a month now and we have done the sum total of very little on it!

 

Cleaned the inside of the canopy and that is it. 

 

On the plus side good progress is being made on jobs on the house. Current thinking is we might extend the period ashore another month or two until we get more work done at home.

 

Just not the weather is it Rach to faff with boats. Be nice ti sit and chill for a change on it though. Soon will be though. And houses OMG this money pit is wors than the boat lol. Just ordered new windows and doors and planning the drive now, Going for Asphalt with red edging and block path. Gong to do the path myself as should of had the operation by then. Elbows are real bad now :(.   

 

 

5 hours ago, cuthound said:

 

If I remember cores you you are using Le Tonkinous varnish.

 

If so try using sponge brushes. I found they virtually eliminated runs when I used them with Le Tonk on the exterior woodwork of my deckboard.

 

3 hours ago, WotEver said:

I use sponge brushes exclusively with Le Tonk 

 

Come on you two, i thought you read this blog see above ;)

 

Hope to get it finished this week and going to get the gear in . No rush this time ;) 

2 hours ago, Mad Harold said:

Congratulations on your work so far. You are a braver man than me!

I had a fibreglass cruiser and now a steel NB.

One of the reasons I gave up on the cruiser was I kept hitting the prop on either the bottom of the canal,or some rubbish. (outboard powered)

Outboards need about 3ft of water which is not always guaranteed so now you are getting close to using your boat,may I pass on a tip.

Two types of lifting the outboard, 1,fixed in the down position with a lever to release the mechanism allowing the engine to swing up.

                                                    2,Hanging loose but with a pin that engages the locking mechanism when reverse is selected. (this is also known as "shallow water drive")

The second is best for canal use as it allows the engine to swing up when it hits an obstruction.

If your motor is of the first type then it is best to rig up a cable to operate the release mechanism,not forgetting to unrelease it when you need reverse,not like me entering a lock,forgetting about the release giving the motor a burst of reverse engine rising up,

me rapidly shutting the throttle and the engine coming down with a hell of a bang!

If you know about this already,then just ignore this post.

Thanks for the reply kida.

 

I actually knew about the engine set up as i did exactly the same as you when i first got a boat. It was boxed in and i could`nt fathom why it would not do much in reverse and kept making a banging noise. I did that for about 15 miles to my first lock. What a prat i thought when a narrow boater helped me out. As said it was a long time ago and my first ever boat.

 

Live and learn. Although all the boats since i have had there has not been any problems really, plenty of things caught up like rope, bags and the best one was what a thing `The L&L canalness monster` maybe. 

 

Was going down the canal once when i looked behind as i heard something making an odd noise  and surfacing with a swirl of the water now and them about 30 foot behind. I did wonder what the hell it is that is following me, with a few nerves going.

 

It was a shopping basket with a rope attached and snagged on the skeg. I cant admit what i thought lol 

 

 

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17 hours ago, Mad Harold said:

Congratulations on your work so far. You are a braver man than me!

I had a fibreglass cruiser and now a steel NB.

One of the reasons I gave up on the cruiser was I kept hitting the prop on either the bottom of the canal,or some rubbish. (outboard powered)

Outboards need about 3ft of water which is not always guaranteed so now you are getting close to using your boat,may I pass on a tip.

Two types of lifting the outboard, 1,fixed in the down position with a lever to release the mechanism allowing the engine to swing up.

                                                    2,Hanging loose but with a pin that engages the locking mechanism when reverse is selected. (this is also known as "shallow water drive")

The second is best for canal use as it allows the engine to swing up when it hits an obstruction.

If your motor is of the first type then it is best to rig up a cable to operate the release mechanism,not forgetting to unrelease it when you need reverse,not like me entering a lock,forgetting about the release giving the motor a burst of reverse engine rising up,

me rapidly shutting the throttle and the engine coming down with a hell of a bang!

If you know about this already,then just ignore this post.

Were you using a really big outboard for it to need 3ft draft?

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4 minutes ago, Naughty Cal said:

Were you using a really big outboard for it to need 3ft draft?

Did we der that as all my cruisers have had around 18 inch draught

So very much same as the outboard leg

 Unless it's a dam big cruiser but then wouldn't fit on canals due to  beam .

 

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5 minutes ago, W+T said:

Did we der that as all my cruisers have had around 18 inch draught

So very much same as the outboard leg

 Unless it's a dam big cruiser but then wouldn't fit on canals due to  beam .

 

Yep 18 inches seems a more sensible figure.

 

We stick the smaller outboard powered cruisers up the inside of the pontoons on the Witham where our 3ft draft boat wouldn't have a prayer of being afloat. They stay afloat though.

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3 hours ago, Naughty Cal said:

Were you using a really big outboard for it to need 3ft draft?

No, it was a Yamaha 9.9 long shaft,as recommended for a Norman 20. This is so that the prop turns in (relatively) undisturbed water. The Norman has a flat transom Drought 14 inches,and there was much disturbed water  behind.

I did cobble up an adjustable outboard mount and lifted the motor up to various depths,but the prop thrust was much reduced and the steering was even worse.  I gave up most reluctantly with the Norman and bought a steel NB.

If I was to buy another fibreglass cruiser,I think I would look seriously at mounting the outboard further aft on a swim type platform.Some of the later Shetlands have this.Mounting the engine thus might get the prop away from the disturbed water from the flat stern,so enabling a shallower prop depth without losing too much thrust.

I did measure the depth from the skeg to the waterline,it was 27 inches.Hence "about" 3ft of water rqd. 

Edited by Mad Harold

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