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Oil for JS3M


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Hi to you all.

Am after some advice please on the following oil for my engine which is due to be changed by me for the first time and I dont know what has been used before.

It's Comma Classic SAE 30 motor oil.

What other oil can I use and we're can I get it

I believe I will need 25l as I have a dry sump with separated oil tank.

Any advice that would help me would be appreciated.

Thank you.

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Morris Goldenfilm SAE30 (What we use)

 

BP Venellus C Mono 30 for another but harder to find

 

Basically any good quality SAE30 or 20 oil with an API grade of CC (Will be written on the can somewhere)

 

Don't forget to remove the crankcase doors and remove any debris from the bottom of the engine and wash out the filter in the bottom. also open up the tank and clean it out.

 

Regards,

 

Martyn

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Beaten to it by Martyn!

 

Lister do reccomed SAE 20 for UK climates but 30 does seem to be easier to find (mid chandlers stock it). You might need closer to 30 litres if you want some to top up.

 

Do you have a manual for the engine?.....most of the main bits are the same as a JP....I think it's mainly the top end which is different but Martyn might know better than me!

 

Ask away if you need more info. Paraffin is good for washing out the filters both in the engine and the tank...and try to clean the oil passage that runs between the bottom of the reversing box and crankcase....stuff seems to sit there.

 

Oh and you will be needing a good set of whitworth spanners...including either a 3/4 or 7/8 open ended whit for the oil filter in the bottom of the engine....I can never remember which.

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

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As Gareth has said pretty much identical to a JP's system except a JS has oil feeds to the valve rockers and drains back to the sump that a JP doesn't have (JP's hold a puddle of oil in the head to lubricate the valves and greased rockers).

 

If you don't have a manual covering the JS engine is available on our site either online flipbook or download but if you have a JP one to hand it will cover 95% of the engine anyway. In relation to oil change just ignore the bit in a JP manual referring to putting oil into the cylinder heads.

 

Martyn

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Thank you all for your advice and expernations in doing my oil change.

I have now orders 30 l of Morris SAE30 I to have had a remind and revise my self from the manual of what to do

Thank you all again.

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Hi again

Is it 3/4 or 7/8 open end spanner for doing the oil filter in the bottom of the engine

Yes that's the filter......sorry I can't remember the size....I think it's the 3/4 whit you need....but wait for Martyn to check!....there might be a washer in the joint on the 3.....but again I'm not sure!!

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

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Right the nut on the end of the filter pipe is 3/4" Whit but there is also a pipe fitting that screws into the back of the oil pump that quite often comes undone instead of the nut you are trying to undo so you will also need a 5/8" whit to hold this still if your unlucky and this happens to you.

 

Ta

 

Martyn

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It might be worth ringing Morris oils direct and ask for the distibuter for your area.

It comes in 4x5Ltre or a 25 Ltre drum. The drum does have a pouring spout.

 

It's a very valid point. Not all do and it's difficult to pour oil out of a spoutless 25 litre drum without spilling it.

 

Give me the 5 litre cans any day.

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It's a very valid point. Not all do and it's difficult to pour oil out of a spoutless 25 litre drum without spilling it.

 

Give me the 5 litre cans any day.

Morris's do sell pumps for their 25 litre drums.

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And for some odd reason they don't supply the SAE20 in 25 litre drums!....but I too think the 5l pots are much easier to use.

Edited to add

 

My local morris stockist is a few quid cheaper per pot than buying direct!

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

Edited by frangar
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  • 3 months later...

Am I worrying over something to much.

My oil pressure when starting and fo a hour or so reads around 18/20 psi

However slowly will go to around 5 psi after 3/4 hours cursing

As stated my engine is a JS3M

Help needed please

Thank you

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Am I worrying over something to much.

My oil pressure when starting and fo a hour or so reads around 18/20 psi

However slowly will go to around 5 psi after 3/4 hours cursing

As stated my engine is a JS3M

Help needed please

Thank you

 

What revs are you getting the low oil pressure? Have you tried adjusting the pressure release valve to increase pressure as detailed in the manual?

 

My JP2M only gets as low as that when hot and at idle (320 rpm). The pressure when cruising does drop off steadily as it warms up over say 4 hours, and can get as low as 10 psi, but that's at around 500 rpm shallow canal cruising speed. Once on a river and up to 700-800+ rpm the pressure picks up noticeably.

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Hmmmm that's interesting....

 

Mine is pretty steady on the oil pressure...18-20 when cold and first started and then maybe a minimum of 15 at hot tickover rising back to 18 when running hard when hot. That's running SAE 20 oil. It's always been around this pressure...mine is a JP2M if that makes a diffrence.

 

One thing I have thought of is how accurate the oil pressure gauges are at low psi or indeed at all especially given the age of them....think I might check mine at some point by rigging up something to connect it to a tyre or similar and comparing with a digital tyre gauge.

 

I would be wary of adjusting the oil relief valve in case it masks something which needs looking at such as bearing wear.

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

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Am I worrying over something to much.

My oil pressure when starting and fo a hour or so reads around 18/20 psi

However slowly will go to around 5 psi after 3/4 hours cursing

As stated my engine is a JS3M

Help needed please

Thank you

 

That is on the low side. I suggest that you clean and adjust the oil pressure relief valve as it's not uncommon for these to pass a little. Don't be afraid to tweak the pressure up a bit on the relief valve. Is the low pressure at idle or normal running speed? If you only have 5 psi at normal running speed and adjusting the relief valve fails to cure it there is another thing to check. It is not a definitive test ,but to get an idea of how worn the bottom end of your engine is ,try and lever the flywheel back and forwards. If there is noticeable play, beyond a few thousands of an inch it generally indicates wear on the thrust faces. If the thrust is badly worn it does usually point towards the crank bearings being worn too as they tend to go hand in hand. If this proves to be the case you should get the bottom end overhauled sooner rather than later. If you don't the crank will be liable to fail before too long. JS Listers are particularly prone to crank failures so do not ignore it or there will be tears before bedtime.sad.png

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi to all,

From what advice I have been given I thank you all

The question I have is when adjusting the pressure release value e in how many times do you turn it once you have undone the locking nut

 

Thank you again to all.

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Try a half turn at a time. Compare oil pressure under similar conditiions, i.e. same revs, water/oil temp etc. One of those inexpensive pistol shaped laser thermometers can be useful when pointed at oil tank.

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