HELP Dashboard/Panel dead

[Phil Ambrose]

Tried to use my manual bilge pump today, nothing, tried panel lights, nothing, tried to start engine still nothing. Engine battery 12.9v so fine. Meter on the big brown lead on the back of the ignition switch showing 12.9 so anyone got a clue?

I can only think that the ignition switch is kaput, corroded contacts maybe, the panel is in a steel box with a steel door so at the mercy of the elements.

Phil

[Alan de Enfield]

Master switch in the off position ?

Main fuse blown ?

Is the brown wire a direct supply for something else ?

 

You shouldn't need electrickery for a manual bilge pump (so at least you can keep on top of the water levels until you resolve the problem)

 

Tried to use my manual bilge pump today, nothing, tried panel lights, nothing, tried to start engine still nothing. Engine battery 12.9v so fine. Meter on the big brown lead on the back of the ignition switch showing 12.9 so anyone got a clue?
I can only think that the ignition switch is kaput, corroded contacts maybe, the panel is in a steel box with a steel door so at the mercy of the elements.
Phil

[Phil Ambrose]

Master switch on, have never found a fuse covering the panel (will look again) the big brown lead is not a supply from anywhere else, and the bilge pump is on my to do list.

Phil

[Alan de Enfield]

Maybe I am confused or not understanding - a manual bilge pump is operated manually, it does not need an electrical supply.

[nicknorman]

Maybe I am confused or not understanding - a manual bilge pump is operated manually, it does not need an electrical supply.

I'm sure he means manually activated (as opposed to float-switch activated).

 

Sorry, not really enough info to help but presumably something between the starter battery and the engine (via the ignition switch) and if there is no power to the bilge pump then presumably it is at or before the ignition switch. you'll just have to check through methodically. Don't forget that if it is a corroded connection, your meter might see 12v+ under no load but that voltage might plummet to virtually zero as soon as a load such as the bilge pump was turned on.

Edited January 24, 2015 by nicknorman

[Phil Ambrose]

Exactly, not fussed about bilge pump, just need to get the lump running.

Phil

[nicknorman]

Exactly, not fussed about bilge pump, just need to get the lump running.

Phil

So, 12.9v somewhere on the ignition switch, what happens when you turn on the ignition and panel lights, still 12.9v - ish? If so you could try connecting that wire with 12.9v to some of the other wires on the back of the switch, one for general engine electrics, gauges, warning lights, alternator excitement etc, one for activating the starter motor and maybe another one for the heater plugs (depending on how many positions the switch has.

 

Alternatively put the ignition on and check that as well as the 12.9v on the brown wire, at least one other set of connections/wires on the back of the switch has 12.9v as well. If not, it is a dodgy switch.

[Phil Ambrose]

Thanks Nick, I'm off to do some more poking around, weird that all was fine when last used it 2 or 3 weeks before Xmas. I will report back.

Phil

[Alan de Enfield]

OK - understand now.

 

Again - may be totally different on yours, but, the bilge pump wiring is usually wired independently and not through the master, or ignition switches, if yours is wired this way then it would suggest that the ignition switch is not at fault.

 

If the pump is wired via the ignition switch then it could be a 'dry joint', corrode contacts, broken wire etc etc.

Has there been any indication of 'building up to a failure' (ie having to turn the swith on & off a few times before anything works)

[Phil Ambrose]

OK have put the tools away for the day but what I have decided is that the ignition switch is faulty (very). I had turned of the battery while I worked through all the connections on the back of the panel, looking for corrosion etc etc, I then gave the ignition switch a good work out in case the contacts were gungy/cruddy, this was were it got interesting. I then turned on the battery again and frit the life out of myself because the engine began to rapidly turn over although the key was not in the switch. Swiftly turn off battery, I can only assume the switch has got stuck in the start position, can think of no other explanation.

I must admit the switch has always seemed a bit reluctant to click from position to position but with all things it takes no time at all to accept things as normal and forget that you were going to do something about it.

 

Phil

[Alan de Enfield]

It is seldom a 'quick' failure unless it is a fuse - 'gradual difficulties' give a warning and chance to do something, but as you say, many of us wait until too late.

 

Homer Simpson has it covered "never do today what you can put off until tommorow"

 

(A squirt of WD40 in the key hole may give temporary relief.)

[Phil Ambrose]

It is seldom a 'quick' failure unless it is a fuse - 'gradual difficulties' give a warning and chance to do something, but as you say, many of us wait until too late.

 

Homer Simpson has it covered "never do today what you can put off until tommorow"

 

(A squirt of WD40 in the key hole may give temporary relief.)

WD40 duly applied but ineffective, obviously have'nt used enough yet.

Phil

[reg]

OK have put the tools away for the day but what I have decided is that the ignition switch is faulty (very). I had turned of the battery while I worked through all the connections on the back of the panel, looking for corrosion etc etc, I then gave the ignition switch a good work out in case the contacts were gungy/cruddy, this was were it got interesting. I then turned on the battery again and frit the life out of myself because the engine began to rapidly turn over although the key was not in the switch. Swiftly turn off battery, I can only assume the switch has got stuck in the start position, can think of no other explanation.

I must admit the switch has always seemed a bit reluctant to click from position to position but with all things it takes no time at all to accept things as normal and forget that you were going to do something about it.

 

Phil

Had the same thing recently on Barrus shire 40. switch was a standard durite model which had corroded inside causing it to self start and jam the starter motor. Caused a lot of damage.

So replaced the switch with one of these.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Durite-0-351-05-4-Position-Ignition-Switch-Car-Marine-/120755855026?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c1d9c1eb2

[Phil Ambrose]

Had the same thing recently on Barrus shire 40. switch was a standard durite model which had corroded inside causing it to self start and jam the starter motor. Caused a lot of damage.

So replaced the switch with one of these.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Durite-0-351-05-4-Position-Ignition-Switch-Car-Marine-/120755855026?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c1d9c1eb2

Hi Reg, suddenly I don't feel so lonely, when things like this happen you start to think you are cracking up.

Phil

[MtB]

Are you SURE they happened, and it's not just you cracking up?

 

 

 

MtB

[John V]

Phil......Ignition switches usually have quite complicated internal contact arrangements. Generally if they start playing up you are best changing rather than repairing.......How many terminals on it are there? John

[Phil Ambrose]

Hi John, it has 9 terminals, 7 of them in use. I have oil pressure, tacho, water temp, hour counter,panel lights,bilge pump and engine stop is solenoid activated.

Phil

[Canalwatcher]

I had a similar problem (Isuzu42). The ignition switch is fed from a cable running up from the same place as where the positive cable from the battery connects to the solenoid. Just after the ignition cable leaves the solenoid there is an inline fuse inserted in line using bullet connectors. One of these connectors was not properly made leading to loss of power supply to the ignition switch.

 

Mick

[Peter Reed]

Hi Phil see link for 7 terminal switch.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DURITE-TYPE-0-351-51-POPULAR-4-POSITION-IGNITION-SWITCH-/110731987256?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19c8240938

[Phil Ambrose]

Peter you are a star, thought I was going to have to faff around with fittind extra switches etc.

Phil

[Alan de Enfield]

Peter you are a star, thought I was going to have to faff around with fittind extra switches etc.

Phil

 

It might be worth taking the opportunity to wire your bildge pump seperately so it is continuously live. I'd be very reluctant to have to remember to switch on the pump - or - to have no pump 'standing by' when I was away for a few days.

[Phil Ambrose]

Bilge pump is on the list.

Phil