Thinsulate insulation

[Guest]

I've recently been following this thread as my initial thoughts were to go for Thinsulate but I've now changed my mind.

 

What are your thoughts on hull preparation for spray foam? The Websters website says that the hull should be grit blasted before priming, what about painting after priming.

 

Any other thoughts?

 

Cheers

Phil

[Guest]

I've recently been following this thread as my initial thoughts were to go for Thinsulate but I've now changed my mind.

 

What are your thoughts on hull preparation for spray foam? The Websters website says that the hull should be grit blasted before priming, what about painting after priming.

 

Any other thoughts?

 

Cheers

Phil

Some foamers will only apply foam to bare steel. Paint of any form is a no no to them. Others say primer first. Our boat is foamed onto bare steel. This bothered me at first, so when I cut out the flue collar, I left the scrap piece of steel complete with foam, upturned on the cabin roof for a year, where it was directly exposed to the elements. I then scraped off the foam, and the steel underneath was like new. Fair test?

Edited January 28, 2007 by Guest

[ChrisPy]

I've recently been following this thread as my initial thoughts were to go for Thinsulate but I've now changed my mind.

 

What are your thoughts on hull preparation for spray foam? The Websters website says that the hull should be grit blasted before priming, what about painting after priming.

 

Any other thoughts?

 

Cheers

Phil

I looked at the Webster site, and was surprised to read their preparation standards.

 

Sprayfoam is often applied directly to new steel, straight onto the millscale. Because the sprayfoam sticks so well, excludes moisture, and provides 'structural support', it renders the steel surface inert. The millscale will probably remain undisturbed for the life of the boat. Obviously it is even better if you grit-blast the steel first, but probably quite unnecessary. I would suggest there is no need to prime the steel before sprayfoaming either.

 

For me one of the prime benefits of sprayfoam is that it renders all that preparation work (and cost and disruption) unnecessary.

[Guest]

I looked at the Webster site, and was surprised to read their preparation standards.

 

Sprayfoam is often applied directly to new steel, straight onto the millscale. Because the sprayfoam sticks so well, excludes moisture, and provides 'structural support', it renders the steel surface inert. The millscale will probably remain undisturbed for the life of the boat. Obviously it is even better if you grit-blast the steel first, but probably quite unnecessary. I would suggest there is no need to prime the steel before sprayfoaming either.

 

For me one of the prime benefits of sprayfoam is that it renders all that preparation work (and cost and disruption) unnecessary.

 

Pleased about that Chris as I've just spent a few hours trying to wire brush mill scale off around the window holes (windows are on order) and the thought of trying to get down to bare steel throughout fills me with horror. I've emailed Websters and asked them to contact me to have a chat about this as I can't believe that boat builders go to all this trouble before spray foaming.

[Lesd]

Some foamers will only apply foam to bare steel. Paint of any form is a no no to them. Others say primer first. Our boat is foamed onto bare steel. This bothered me at first, so when I cut out the flue collar, I left the scrap piece of steel complete with foam, upturned on the cabin roof for a year, where it was directly exposed to the elements. I then scraped off the foam, and the steel underneath was like new. Fair test?

 

Very reassuring !

[ChrisPy]

Pleased about that Chris as I've just spent a few hours trying to wire brush mill scale off around the window holes.

you'll never wire brush millscale off unless the steel is already very rusty. the only way to get it off is by grinding or coarse sanding or by gritblasting. a hand or power wirebrush will just polish it up like silver plate. it is very hard.

[Guest]

you'll never wire brush millscale off unless the steel is already very rusty. the only way to get it off is by grinding or coarse sanding or by gritblasting. a hand or power wirebrush will just polish it up like silver plate. it is very hard.

 

I got quite a lot off using an angle grinder with a knotted wire brush but you are right a lot of it just polishes up.

[Gary Peacock]

Forget it!

 

We had a very early introduction to it and I did some research into it and 3M's reasons for pushing it!

 

Marketing exercise springs to mind if I remember correctly.

 

 

And here we go again we just got spammed with this!

 

Dear Sir,

 

 

My name is David Mcleod, I have just joined Diverse Marine Solutions Ltd and help me introduce myself ,i have a special rate discount on our 3M THINSULATE INSULATION.

 

Please email or phone our office for more information, you will not be disappointed,

 

Thinsulate is a product you can trust.

 

How about you try our web site and check out all our other products .

 

We stock many other 3M products.

 

Thank you for your time and happy boating.

 

 

David Mcleod,

 

Technical Sales

 

 

Diverse Marine Solutions Ltd, Premium House, Hambridge Road, Newbury, Berks, RG14 5SS.

DD: 01635 47894 fax. 01635 580176

Reg No. 04537899

 

 

Visit our website on www.d-m-s.co.uk

 

 

 

[Phoenix_V]

I've emailed Websters and asked them to contact me to have a chat about this as I can't believe that boat builders go to all this trouble before spray foaming.

 

I'm looking to get the shell we are fitting out sprayfoamed soon, did you have any response from Websters?

[Gary Peacock]

Pleased about that Chris as I've just spent a few hours trying to wire brush mill scale off around the window holes (windows are on order) and the thought of trying to get down to bare steel throughout fills me with horror. I've emailed Websters and asked them to contact me to have a chat about this as I can't believe that boat builders go to all this trouble before spray foaming.

 

You don't you just degrease it.

 

If a builder uses de-scaled steel it costs relatively little more and you have no scale or shot blasting to worry about.

 

Websters are pricey and tried it on with us on quotes in the past. Silly mistake!

 

The cheapest way to get spray foaming done is to get the builder to get a quote, the public pay more because there is no repeat business to be lost.

[blackrose]

And here we go again we just got spammed with this!

 

Dear Sir,

 

 

My name is David Mcleod, I have just joined Diverse Marine Solutions Ltd and help me introduce myself ,i have a special rate discount on our 3M THINSULATE INSULATION.

 

Please email or phone our office for more information, you will not be disappointed,

 

Thinsulate is a product you can trust.

 

How about you try our web site and check out all our other products .

 

We stock many other 3M products.

 

Thank you for your time and happy boating.

 

 

David Mcleod,

 

Technical Sales

 

 

Diverse Marine Solutions Ltd, Premium House, Hambridge Road, Newbury, Berks, RG14 5SS.

DD: 01635 47894 fax. 01635 580176

Reg No. 04537899

 

 

Visit our website on www.d-m-s.co.uk

 

 

 

 

I don't understand Gary? Whether Thinsulate is any good and how it is marketed are two different issues. Personally I wouldn't choose Thinsulate either, but many companies push their products and this doesn't necessarily have any bearing on their effectiveness.

[Gary Peacock]

I don't understand Gary? Whether Thinsulate is any good and how it is marketed are two different issues. Personally I wouldn't choose Thinsulate either, but many companies push their products and this doesn't necessarily have any bearing on their effectiveness.

 

Shall I just say last time it involved "special" offers to endorse a product.

 

I liked it so much I didn't buy the company!

[frangar]

I used it to insulate under my counter as the area was too small to warrant getting a sprayfoam company in and with the curves etc polystyrene wouldnt bend! Found it easy to use and stick up to painted steel, even this small area wasnt cheap though but it seems to be doing its job and the glue is holding up which was a slight concern.....All things considered I think it has its place in retrofit work.

 

Gareth

[Ex- Member]

A vapour barrier is now a requirement in building work to prevent vapour getting through to the dew point. Unless you tape the joints scrupulously with board insulation you'll get condensation on the steel. Spray foam forms it's own vapour barrier.

 

 

After a lot of debate we went for 50mm high density rockwool, however this was also covered and sealed in with 10mm celotex which is a sprayfoam sealed in foil both sides, this creates a vapour barrier, according to the specialist advising us on boat insulation. Anyway the Rockwool insulation has been in well over 3 years now, 18 months of which was on the water. We recently had to remove some panelling that has been in place since first being insulated. We were really well surprised that the primed inner surface of the boat was still in perfect condition, the rockwool was bone dry and haddn't sagged or degraded in any way. The celotex on top was well fitted and all joints taped with foil tape. I note as mentioned that now vapour barriers are a requirement in building work. Also around the portholes we had fitted rockwool, when recently fitting the new oak liners all this was removed, and even though the porthole edges had exposed rockwoll for all that time, when removed there again was very little degredation to the red primer. On refitting the liners and brass portholes though we did use fire retardant spray foam from screwfix applied with a gun through the 6mm holes where the brass portholes were screwed in. The porthole glass does condensate, but to a much lesser degree than previously when no liner was fitted and exposed rockwool. I would say though that spray foam is the best if applied correctly, that's evenly all over the areas concerned, the insulation guy who advised us on insulation expressed concerne that if sprayfoam not applied evenly throughout the boat, it would cause hot and cold spots which overall is very detrimental to good insulation. That's why at the time we went for rockwool and cellotex vapour barrier, as the insulation on the entire boat is of the same thickness and density throughout. The cost was about half of being sprayfoamed although we fitted it all ourselves and if the real cost of our labour was calculated it would have been around the same price.