jp2 oil change

[lpp2]

Good afternoon

could one of the more technical minded members give a step by step guide to an oil change on my jp2, please bear in mind I'm not the most technically gifted member of the forum.

thanks in anticipation

lpp2

[martyn 1]

Firstly is it a industrial JP2 or a proper marine JP2?

 

does it have an external oil tank (approx 2' x 1' x 1' in size) or not, this will answer the above.

[lpp2]

Thanks for replying the engine is a marine jp2 and yes there is an external oil tank, any advice you could give would be greatly appreciated.

thanks lpp2

[J&K]

I did ours last week, a fluid extractor pump was an essential piece of kit.

I took the big cover and the cam gear cover off the engine to gain good access to inside, you also need to take the two round covers off the oil sump tank and remove the strainers below these. Get the fluid pump and suck out all the oil from the tank and engine (I got nearly 30 litres out!), then you need loads of tissue or cloth to wipe out the remaining oil and sludge. If you can get the strainer off in the bottom of the engine there will be a load of crud under there, mine wouldn't budge so I had to spend a while poking bits of cloth under it. I also took the rocker covers off and cleaned up there as well.

When its all really clean in there put 5 litres of oil in the bottom of the engine (pour some of that over the rocker gear and let it run down) and 20 litres in the tank and put everything back together. I turned ours over by hand for a while (hand crank) to ensure that everything was primed through.

Fire her up and decide what you can do with a big bag full of oily rags.

 

Hope that makes some sense.

Jon

[frangar]

J&K has about nailed it.....it's worth warming the engine up first to get the oil a bit thinner...you will need a large whit spanner to remove the oil strainer from the bottom of the engine.... It's either 3/4 whit or 7/8 whit....my spanner has both and I can never remember which end it is...Martyn might have a better memory than me. It needs to be an open ended spanner and I'm afraid you will have to turn the engine over to get the crank in the right place for best access...even then it's a bit of a faf...but well worth doing

 

I use a sump pump converted to have hoses attached to drain the oil tank and the sump.

 

When you refill with oil use something like Morris Golden Film SAE 20 or SAE 30...the lister manual says use a 20 for our climate which is what I have always used but given the hot weather we have now I'm wondering about switching to a 30.

 

It's also worth checking the oil level in the sump on the fuel injector pump and sucking out any diesel which has leaked in there.

 

If you have a reduction box on the back of the reversing box then drain that using the big brass nut in the middle at the bottom and refill with SAE50 engine oil (again Morris golden film). Some people use EP90 but I prefer to keep to the manual. Don't overfill it...there isn't much between min and max on the reduction box dipstick...of course if you have a modern reversing box then this bit doesn't apply!

 

I'm sure Martyn will add the bits I've forgotten!

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

[martyn 1]

Pretty Much covered by Jon and Gareth

 

but here is all the bits you need to do in bullet point form to make it easy.

 

1. Remove rocker covers and clean out old oil and other muck. refill with fresh oil until it just covers the large nuts where the pushrods come up through. good Idea to check the valve clearances at this point and adjust as needed (engine cold for the clearances). also ensure fresh oil in both cups on the tops of the pushrods.
2. Remove both covers from the top of the oil tank and the internal strainers.
3. Remove oil from tank, vacuum pump is your friend here.
4. Clean the strainers and inside of the tank until spotlessly clean and reassemble the tank.
5. Remove large crankcase door (the one under the exhaust manifold).
6. Remove oil pickup filter and clean out any debris.
7. Remove all oil and debris from the crankcase, if ground on dirt wash down with parrafin and ensure totally cleaned out.
8. Refit oil pickup filter.
9. Put some oil in the bottom of the engine approx 5 ltrs (Morris goldenfilm SAE30 or SAE20 if handstart)
10. Refit large crankcase door and any other bit you disturbed to get it off.
11. Put approx 20 ltrs of oil in the tank.
12. With everything back together, turn over the engine until oil pressure is registered and then start.
13. Run for a few minutes and then stop.
14. Check oil level on tank and top up as required.
15. Your all done.

Martyn

[lpp2]

Thanks so much for all the replies.they're very helpful.

I'LL be having a go this weekend.

Regards lpp2

[Troyboy]

What a palaver , makes me pleased I've got a BMC 1.5 in my boat .

[Proper Job]

JP2 or BMC 1.5?

 

I can see that it would be a difficult choice

[martyn 1]

Easy choice, a JP2.. but without the marine scavenge oil tank which then removes about half the steps in the process above. And considering the scavenge oil system was to ensure the engine always had oil when pitching and rolling at sea I can't see it really having much use on a narrow boat other than making the oil changes more expensive as the marine engines with tank hold more oil. Can't remember the last time I saw a 15 - 20' wave on the cut

[starman]

Easy choice, a JP2.. but without the marine scavenge oil tank which then removes about half the steps in the process above. And considering the scavenge oil system was to ensure the engine always had oil when pitching and rolling at sea I can't see it really having much use on a narrow boat other than making the oil changes more expensive as the marine engines with tank hold more oil. Can't remember the last time I saw a 15 - 20' wave on the cut

Ah but the polished copper oil tank does look good. Next thing you'll be saying ditch the marine water pump in favour of a modern one! ;-)

Edited July 30, 2014 by starman

[martyn 1]

Ah but the polished copper oil tank does look good. Next thing you'll be saying ditch the marine water pump in favour of a modern one! ;-)

I suppose on the pump front it depends on how much you like your tin of Brasso

 

Personally I would go for a modern one or the later JP/JK gear type pump. can't stand the earlier plunger type pumps.

[starman]

In case we get fed up polishing the oil tank just how complex a job is it to change over to wet sumping?

I love my water pump though - even if it does consume a lot of grease.

[martyn 1]

Its a fairly easy job but does require the removal of the flywheel to do it.

 

You need the complete oil pump assembly with internal filter, the external oil pump to oil input pipe (top of end housing next to throttle bell crank) and the dipstick and filler plate off of an industrial engine.

[starman]

Its a fairly easy job but does require the removal of the flywheel to do

Yikes. If that's 'easy' I dread to think what's a hard job! :-)

I think I will stick with Brasso and expensive oil changes.

[frangar]

I like my oil tank!

 

It also acts as a sort of oil cooler as well as another place for any "crud" to settle out of the oil.

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

[martyn 1]

Yikes. If that's 'easy' I dread to think what's a hard job! :-)

I think I will stick with Brasso and expensive oil changes.

A hard job is getting the crank out of a jp3, on your own in sub zero temperatures when the gear end bearing has had water through it and is seized in the housing.

 

Last time I did the oil pump conversion it took 2 hours start to finish. with 30 mins of that messing around getting the flywheel off.

[starman]

A hard job is getting the crank out of a jp3, on your own in sub zero temperatures when the gear end bearing has had water through it and is seized in the housing.

 

Last time I did the oil pump conversion it took 2 hours start to finish. with 30 mins of that messing around getting the flywheel off.

Fair point but in my case step 1 would be "remove engine from boat" as the flywheel is only an inch or so from the bulkead. :-)

[lpp2]

I did the oil change as recommended above all went well, thanks for all the replies.

lpp2

[starman]

Thanks from me too - just done my JP3. And special thanks to Thorne Boat Services where I bought the oil who let me dispose of the old stuff there and were helpful in other ways too. Thoroughly recommend them.

[NarrowboatReliance]

On 27/07/2014 at 09:43, J&K said:

big cover and the cam gear

Hello, could you please clarify what you mean by 'big cover and the cam gear'? I'm intend to do a full oil change of my Lister JP2 marine engine soon and want to this right 

[monkeyhanger]

On 05/03/2023 at 12:40, NarrowboatReliance said:

Hello, could you please clarify what you mean by 'big cover and the cam gear'? I'm intend to do a full oil change of my Lister JP2 marine engine soon and want to this right 

The large plate on the starboard side of the engine. It sometimes has the decompressors in it. 8 brass domed nuts. The cam cover is the smaller one to the rear of it. You don't need to remove that one.