nb-Dusk Till Dawn

[stuart]

Hi Stuart

 

  Its looking good. How many of you working on the boat? you seem to have done a lot of work in a short space of time. I hope there weren't too many mistakes,we have all been there, remember the old saying. Measure TWICE and cut ONCE.  Good luck it will all be worth it.

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Only two of us. Learning a lot as I go along. Got some electrics in today and that went better than I expected. Hate working with heavy gauge cable though, 40mm2 is a bugger to attach to anything!

[stuart]

Last day before returning to work!

 

 

Progress has been quite dramatic for a short two week period, I'm still not bored yet either!

 

Started to drop all the electric cables into place, wiring up standard items like horn, tunnel light has begun and even a few interior cabin lights as well!

 

You will notice from the pictures that the mass of oak-ply has dropped considerably and the boat no longer lists to one side!

 

 

Please ignore the temporary fuse panel and small inverter screwed to the bulkhead !

[Richard Bustens]

Bloody slow down Stewart.

You've done more in a fortnight than i have in 5 months. a lot more.

[stuart]

Bloody slow down Stewart.

You've done more in a fortnight than i have in 5 months. a lot more.  

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Just back to weekends and the odd few days from work now. Still girlfriend will be happy that I'm not living at the boat!

[ChrisPy]

The gland bilge compartment is sealed from the rest of the engine bilge.  At present there isnt a bilge pump in the engine compartment.  I presume this is so that engine oil/grease cannot be sucked up and spat into the canal.

 

However saying that, theres also no water in the engine bilge at all.  Bone dry    I assume the self draining deck and boards are working as they should.

 

The existing bilge pump is as supplied by Liv. Boats.

 

I did think that it was a little strange that they purposely cut a square "tray" out of the base just to locate the pump.  I expect it may foul on the prop shaft if they didnt do this.

 

If you look at the gear box picture in the earlier posts you can see the steel wall seperating the two.  Theres no "drip" from the stern gear at all.  The water in the bilge is what I've put in there (to test the pump) and since removed!!

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I asked about the stern tube and the bilge pump when I was in Liverpool today. The engine tray is sealed as required by BSS, but any water in the cabin or either side of the engine finds its way past the engine and into the below-gland sump. Apparently this is deep enough to activate the float switch before the water is swilling about the general bilge area. GOOD ONE.

 

I was assured that, with engine mounts in good condition, the absence of a flexible coupling is not a problem. It is as I described earlier in this thread, with a flexibly mounted stuffing gland. 'We've never had a call-out and have never heard of a premature engine/gearbox bearing failure'. I suppose that's good enough.

[stuart]

About time I did an update. Work has slowed down since I had to return to work just stuck with weekend and odd evenings now.

 

All of the panels have been fitted, the roof lights are in and most of the light switches are in place and wired up. The horn, tunnel light and most of the cabling are all in ready to be connected up.

 

Heres the current photos:

 

 

 

The first partition bulkhead went in today and it really transforms the cabin space. The bulkhead between the bathroom and kitchen is in place.

 

 

The kitchen cupboards are ready to be put in...

 

 

heres a picture of the shower tray waiting to be secured into place....

 

 

Waiting for the plumbing fixings to arrive so I can do a first fix on that and also to run the 240v cabling around as well.

[steveh]

Stuart

 

Are those standard B&Q cabinets I see?

 

The wooden roof lining, from the photo there seems to be flex into position to give a curved shape. Is this correct or an optical illusion?

 

Its looking fantastic

Edited March 2, 2005 by steveh

[NB Willawaw]

Nice one Stuart. Looking good.

 

 

P.S. The stone/marble ? shower tray looks quality but is it going to be deep enough ? Even if the pump is really efficient, isn't there a chance of leaking over the edge if the boat rolls due to somebody stepping on or off her ?

Edited March 2, 2005 by NB Willawaw

[stuart]

Stuart

 

Are those standard B&Q cabinets I see?

 

The wooden roof lining, from the photo there seems to be flex into position to give a curved shape. Is this correct or an optical illusion?

 

Its looking fantastic

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Yes, B&Q cupboards. I'm not going to re-invent the wheel when it comes to building cabinets I only need a couple of cabinets and will likely cut them up a bit to ensure they fit flush and look right.

 

I'm planning on using the kitchen doors for other cupboards on the boat too eg. wardrobe. No idea what its going to look like yet but we will soon see! And easy to change if required.

 

The roof lining is very thin 4mm oak-ply. As its only in 2ft wide strips it does flex easily to form the curve of the roof. At the moment its only screwed in at either side with nothing in the middle. I expect the wood will sag a bit in the middle so will probably need to support this.

 

I've ensured that everything currently fitted can be removed fairly easily and often does! during the fit out

[stuart]

Nice one Stuart. Looking good.

 

 

P.S. The stone/marble ? shower tray looks quality but is it going to be deep enough ? Even if the pump is really efficient, isn't there a chance of leaking over the edge if the boat rolls due to somebody stepping on or off her ?

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The stone tray is actually the cheapest slimline stone tray I could find. Again its a B&Q special at only £34.99. Its around 55mm high and 40mm internal.

 

I have been wondering if there will be a problem with the slim height if the boat rocks around. I have also brought another one (waiting to be returned) which was 110mm high. Much too high in my opinion. I could do with a tray around 70mm high - but they dont exist! 95-100mm do though!

 

Looking at the shower in my bathroom at home, the tray hardly ever gets water in it most just flushes straight away (obviously by gravity). If there is any buildup, its only about 5-10mm deep max.

[stuart]

Decided to keep the deep tray just to be on the safe side. Once the tray is in place that leaves me with 1900mm of head room from top of tray. Standard shower doors are 1850mm so should be okay to install these soon.

 

I'm thinking if tiling the complete enclosure and also the roof panels above the shower to stop steam/condensation affecting the wood over a period of time.

[steveh]

What about installing a little fan above the shower?

[bottle]

What about installing a little fan above the shower?

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Screw-fix do one with a light in (low voltage transformer for light) but requires 240volts

suitable for zone 1 in bathrooms

[ChrisPy]

Screw-fix do one with a light in (low voltage transformer for light) but requires 240volts

suitable for zone 1 in bathrooms

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12V available from chandlers, about £40. Fits under a 4" mushroom vent.

[stuart]

Yep. already planning to put a mushroom vent over the shower cubicle. I will install a fan but theres no way I'm ever paying a chandler £40 for one!

 

I'll borrow one from a spare/old computer!! If it stops working due to the humidity then I'll swap it for another!

[John Orentas]

Computer fans are ideal for this I have had one for 10 years or more, just fit it below a standard mushroom vent. The BSS will probably require a vent anyway, don't forget the one at low level in the door.

[bottle]

Computer fans are ideal for this I have had one for 10 years or more, just fit it below a standard mushroom vent.  The BSS will probably require a vent anyway, don't forget the one at low level in the door.

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They do some nice ones with LED's now, some even flash

[steveh]

They do some nice ones with LED's now, some even  flash

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Disco shower?

[stuart]

Disco shower?

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Perhaps I'll have 2 and one can be the ultraviolet type to glow in the dark!

 

[stuart]

Another busy weekend. This time with the plumbing!

 

Last weekend saw the arrival and fitting of a Morso stove. Lining up the chimney to the deck fitting was a real pain but nothing an angle grinder didn't sort out.

 

The narrowboat is taking shape now. All electrics are in place, the fuse board has moved inside the cupboard rather than hanging "by a thread" off the wall. First fit of hot/cold plumbing and also central heating pipework is in place. Just need to finish painting the inside of the water tank - nasty job!

 

Heres the latest photos....

 

 

 

Found some really useful cable tie's that you can use for labelling up the various circuits. Trust me - I can read my own writing!

 

 

And a final night time picture with the salon lights on. I've used a 3 way switch for these lights, so I can have either side on, just the centre, or any combination.

 

Edited March 14, 2005 by stuart

[NB Willawaw]

I've just looked at the first photo that you posted of the inside of the bare boat and compared it with your latest cosy photo with the lights on - theres certainly a big difference. You must be pleased with the progress. I don't think I could do it - well done.

[ChrisPy]

that stove looks awful close to a lot of woodwork.????????

[stuart]

that stove looks awful close to a lot of woodwork.???????? 

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It is close to the stairs but at least 140mm away from the back/side of the cabin. The shelf/area is tiled with thick floor tiles.

 

On a few trial runs of the stove, the stairs dont actually get very warm at all. You can still easily put your hand down the side of the stairs - they are only warm to the touch. The tiles do get hotter than this - but thats what they are there for!

 

I've seen plenty of other boats with this arrangement and there is very little option for positioning a stove in a narrow boat, its either in the corner or along the cabin side further in the living area. All examples I've seen are quite close to the cabin walls.

 

Stu.

 

Heres another photo taken with the flash on this time!

 

Edited March 15, 2005 by stuart

[Richard Bustens]

If it does get to hot you can always put some tiles on to disperse the heat at a later date if need be.

[ChrisPy]

Is it beneficial to raise the stove up?

I had not considered it, and was planning to keep it low for 2 reasons : to allow plenty of rise to the back boiler pipes (gravity convection system), and for the diesel supply. I have now decided to go multi-fuel Morso, so the second is no longer an issue.

I suppose the benefits are that the heat is more 'in your face' (good or bad?) and it is much easier to operate and maintain the stove (especially if you have back pain, as I do).

Any comments?