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water pump staying on


Daftmare

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Hi all

 

When we turn on the water taps, the pump starts up. When we turn the taps off, the pump carries on going.

 

Initially this lasted only for a few seconds, but on the weekend it got to the stage where the pump would not stop unless we cut the power.

 

Not sure what the problem is, and I wonder if anyone on here can offer advice?

 

(I do not know if we have an accumulator. What does it look like?)

 

Thanks

Jo

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Hi all

 

When we turn on the water taps, the pump starts up. When we turn the taps off, the pump carries on going.

 

Initially this lasted only for a few seconds, but on the weekend it got to the stage where the pump would not stop unless we cut the power.

 

Not sure what the problem is, and I wonder if anyone on here can offer advice?

 

(I do not know if we have an accumulator. What does it look like?)

 

Thanks

Jo

There's GUNGE in your pump!Remove,strip and cleanthe pump head, paying particular attention to the diaphragm and pressure switch areas.Don't forget to clean/inspect the inlet strainer at the same time.

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some older pumps, I think they were in the Parmax range, used a microswitch for pressure sensing. It was held in place by plastic bolts that distorted with age allowing the switch to move away from the pressure sensing diaphragm.

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some older pumps, I think they were in the Parmax range, used a microswitch for pressure sensing. It was held in place by plastic bolts that distorted with age allowing the switch to move away from the pressure sensing diaphragm.

 

I think most, if not all pumps use a micro switch for pressure sensing and these micro switches can and do fail, this would be the first thing that I would check, I've had 2 micro switches fail.

 

Phil

Edited by Phil Ambrose
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You could have an air bubble in the pump.

When you open your taps again...does water come pouring out normally...or does it splutter.

Could be empty tank.

Could be damaged microswitch pressure switch in the pump.

Could be leak in one of your water points/connectors.

 

Test em all in whichever order is easiest for you.

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I think most, if not all pumps use a micro switch for pressure sensing and these micro switches can and do fail, this would be the first thing that I would check, I've had 2 micro switches fail.

 

Phil

 

When it's happened to me it because the water tank was empty. That's the very first thing I'd check.

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Thanks for all your replies.

 

I really think that the tank is empty, as the water IS spluttering and tinged slightly brown. We have always been careful about filling up, which is probably the reason why we discounted this at first.

 

We will fill up tomorrow and go from there. If that does not sort it out, then we will start looking at all the other ideas you have given us.

 

Thanks so much for helping out.

 

Jo.

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Thanks for all your replies.

 

I really think that the tank is empty, as the water IS spluttering and tinged slightly brown. We have always been careful about filling up, which is probably the reason why we discounted this at first.

 

We will fill up tomorrow and go from there. If that does not sort it out, then we will start looking at all the other ideas you have given us.

 

Thanks so much for helping out.

If the tank IS full, it could be a blockage or a blocked filter from the tank - this can make a diaphragm pump run non stop. Maybe disconnect the pump inlet and put it in a bowl of water and give it a try.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

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  • 2 months later...

I have a similar problem and though I would post here rather than start a new thread.

 

My pump cycles every five seconds or so and has done from new (I was told emphatically by College Cruisers that I must have a leak and that I should bugger off and leave them alone, even though I had just spent over £100!). I finally ruled out the possibility of a leak and do not think that it can be gunk as it has acted up straight from the box.

 

I turned off the water main with the pump on today and it stopped cycling for around 5 minutes and then cycled with the sound ot normally makes when pumping dry. However I could not find a leak from the hose from the water tank. can anyone shed any light on this? In another thread someone mentioned the valves could cause these symptoms.

 

Any help greatly appreciated.

 

P.s. my tank is definitely not empty.

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I have a similar problem and though I would post here rather than start a new thread.

 

My pump cycles every five seconds or so and has done from new (I was told emphatically by College Cruisers that I must have a leak and that I should bugger off and leave them alone, even though I had just spent over £100!). I finally ruled out the possibility of a leak and do not think that it can be gunk as it has acted up straight from the box.

 

I turned off the water main with the pump on today and it stopped cycling for around 5 minutes and then cycled with the sound ot normally makes when pumping dry. However I could not find a leak from the hose from the water tank. can anyone shed any light on this? In another thread someone mentioned the valves could cause these symptoms.

 

Any help greatly appreciated.

 

P.s. my tank is definitely not empty.

Best thing is a valve on the outlet of the pump, then see if it still cycles with the valve off, saved my sanity one one occasion... Still, you could try connecting the outlet of the pump to a blanked off hose and see if it still cycles.

 

If it IS flowing back, and the pump isn't under g'tee, one way out would be to fit a non return valve after the pump then an external pressure switch after that. The 'Square D' type ones are pretty good, and there's a plethora of other ones, some quite cheap, on Ebay. I would also fit a relay between pressure switch and pump motor, even if the pump motor current draw appears to be within the switch rating.

 

Also if the strainer is missing or too coarse I s'pose some crud could get stuck in the valves and lead to problems, or frost could damage the valves in some way.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited by smileypete
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Best thing is a valve on the outlet of the pump, then see if it still cycles with the valve off, saved my sanity one one occasion... Still, you could try connecting the outlet of the pump to a blanked off hose and see if it still cycles.

 

If it IS flowing back, and the pump isn't under g'tee, one way out would be to fit a non return valve after the pump then an external pressure switch after that. The 'Square D' type ones are pretty good, and there's a plethora of other ones, some quite cheap, on Ebay. I would also fit a relay between pressure switch and pump motor, even if the pump motor current draw appears to be within the switch rating.

 

Also if the strainer is missing or too coarse I s'pose some crud could get stuck in the valves and lead to problems, or frost could damage the valves in some way.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

 

Good answers. I will try the blanked off hose trick.

 

It could be crud, but there is no way it's frost damage as I have been careful about draining the water system when it gets chilly.

 

The pump is under guarantee and is only three months old (it has acted up from new), but the warrantee is void if an inline filter is not fitted. I imagine they have tests for this. It's really irritating as when I bought it I was told not to fit a filter by the dealer and didn't realise it would void the warranty.

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Is it a Shurflo?

 

I have posted several times lately about my experiences with Shurflo Aquakings. The latest problem has been down to a faulty pressure switch on a pump still under warranty. The symptoms were just like yours.

 

The pump has been replaced under warranty by the suppliers, Elite Motor Homes, whose service has been excellent over 2 years of problems since we bought a new pump from them.

 

If it hadn't been a warranty claim I'd have had the microswitch out of the pump and gone to Maplins to try for a replacement for it.

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I really dislike the pressure switches on most pumps - especially Surflo - andthe problem is ten times worse on the new breed of pump that claims not to need an accumulator. They generally achieve this by letting water leak back to the other side of the sensing diaphragm through a tiny hole; it may seem good in the lab but is a disaster in the real world. I don't even try to use the switch, I have a square-D switch instead and as soon as I receive a new pump the first thing I do is to cut the wires to the switch and by-pass it to use the square-D instead.

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