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I took the boat up and down the river for about an hour and a half today and pushed it hard. The engine temperature stayed at 85 C most of the time apart from when I gave it maximum revs for half an hour against the current and it went up to about 88 C.

 

The bottom half of the new skin tank was still quite cool when I checked it immediately afterwards, so I guess it's doing its job. I don't quite understand why the temperature is still reaching 88 C given that the new tank is cool at the bottom? Perhaps it has something to do with the boat being over-propped, but at least it's better than 98 C which it would have gone to before!

 

Anyway, my overheating issue seems to be on a couple of different threads, but the problem has been solved, so thanks to everyone for their advice and suggestions.

 

Mike

(built in skin tank) My 55 runs at 80ish on the canals mike, 85-90 going upstream on the Thames. I have also replaced the air filter with a mushroom wire and foam one, that seems to give me a "little" more power but noticeably lets the engine breathe better.

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(built in skin tank) My 55 runs at 80ish on the canals mike, 85-90 going upstream on the Thames. I have also replaced the air filter with a mushroom wire and foam one, that seems to give me a "little" more power but noticeably lets the engine breathe better.

 

Interesting. That's the next little project then!

 

When I fitted an oil-temp gauge with dipstick sender (messuring the sump-oil temp) in one of my cars a good 40 years ago, I got a bit scared as the temp indicated easily went way past the 100°C as far as 120-130°C even.

 

This worried me enough at the time to ask the Castrol supplier if there was a danger losing lubrication capacity at temps like that, and I was told not to worry, and that is good if oil gets over 100°C so water (condensation) in the oil will evaporate, and so keep the oil in better condition.

 

Modern day oils like the fully synthetic oils I'm using nowadays, are allowed to get even hotter.

 

Peter.

 

To be honest, it wasn't just the engine I was concerned about before - I was more worried about the PRM gearbox overheating because the gearbox cooler uses the return coolant from the skin tank. It still works fine, so hopefully I haven't caused any damage or premature wear by running it too hot.

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Interesting. That's the next little project then!

 

 

 

To be honest, it wasn't just the engine I was concerned about before - I was more worried about the PRM gearbox overheating because the gearbox cooler uses the return coolant from the skin tank. It still works fine, so hopefully I haven't caused any damage or premature wear by running it too hot.

 

 

PRM gearboxes use engine-oil, oil that can handel fairly high temp without losing in lubrication quality.

 

Peter.

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88c is fine for a diesel engine they like to run on the hot side.

 

They do indeed. As I understand it, in a modern diesel it's a tricky balance between keeping the air coming in cold enough to get enough oxygen in the cylinder, pushing the cylinder temperature up as high as you can to improve combustion, and avoiding mechanical failure due to overheating

 

Richard

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They do indeed. As I understand it, in a modern diesel it's a tricky balance between keeping the air coming in cold enough to get enough oxygen in the cylinder, pushing the cylinder temperature up as high as you can to improve combustion, and avoiding mechanical failure due to overheating

 

Richard

I have installed a tube from the air cleaner to the engine room vents on the gunnel in order to keep the air entering the engine as cool as possible.

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I have installed a tube from the air cleaner to the engine room vents on the gunnel in order to keep the air entering the engine as cool as possible.

If it went via the fridge it would become a sort of inter-cooler.

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