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Fuel Filter - Lister Canal Star


Night Hawk
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Hi there,

 

I'm happy with changing oil and air filters on my old Canal Star engine but I have to confess that I've not changed the fuel filter believing it to be very complicated...My uncle's always done it for me....but in return it's usually cost a slap up pub lunch...In an attempt to save a few quid, help my uncle loose weight and gain a little engine knowledge, I was wondering just how one goes about changing a fuel filter.

 

It might seem daft, but is it as easy as unscrewing the old one, catching the spill in a bucket, and screwing the new one back on and cranking the engine until it fires OR does one have to drain the fuel system and do lots of other complicated things?

 

Awaiting the esteemed knowledge of the forums engineers...

 

Andrew

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I've changed the filters on my Isuzu and it's very easy. The Isuzu has 2 filters

 

Turn off fuel supply tap.

undo bolt on bottom of first filter

Lower bowl and filter cartridge catching any spilled diesel in ice cream container.

Remove o ring from filter bowl and head - refit new o rings

fit new cartridge to top of bowl

refit bowl and cartridge to filter head making sure to have replaced sealing washer under bolt head

tighten bowl to correct torque

 

using strap wrench loosen second filter cartridge and unscrew catching any spilled diesel in ice cream container

make sure oil seal is still attached to filter cartridge - if not remove it.

fit new filter to new cartridge - lubricate seal with a smear of diesel

fit cartridge and hand tighten.

turn on fuel supply tap

 

turn on ignition and wait for electric fuel pump to prime system

 

check for leaks and rectify if required

 

start engine - usually starts first time

 

re-check filters after about an hour just incase.

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1) My Uncle talks far too much.....I was rather hoping that a Lister owner here might share their wisdom....does it have two filters, I can only see one....oh thump!

 

2) Do you have to worry about air getting into the fuel lines?

 

Thanks for the replies so far chaps!

 

A x

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1) My Uncle talks far too much.....I was rather hoping that a Lister owner here might share their wisdom....does it have two filters, I can only see one....oh thump!

 

2) Do you have to worry about air getting into the fuel lines?

 

Thanks for the replies so far chaps!

 

A x

 

I've got an LPWS3 which is similar to the Canalstar. You need to turn off the diesel at the fuel shut off. The fuel filter on the engine block is a small one with a paper element. This unbolts from underneath, you have to feel for it, and then unscrews and the housing drops down. Replace the filter and screw back up after replacing o rings and gasket/seal - there should be new ones with the new filter. I always have to bleed my engine after changing filters by pumping the lever on the fuel lift pump and then by turning the engine over with the fuel pipe nuts slackened off at the injectors. Tighten them when fuel is spurting out and the engine fires up as I tighten the last one.

 

You may have a pre-filter or water separater closer to the diesel tank which would be like the first filter in Chalky's post.

 

I think! There seem to be so many variations.

 

It is best to watch someone do it if you can and learn that way.

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I've got an LPWS3 which is similar to the Canalstar. You need to turn off the diesel at the fuel shut off. The fuel filter on the engine block is a small one with a paper element. This unbolts from underneath, you have to feel for it, and then unscrews and the housing drops down. Replace the filter and screw back up after replacing o rings and gasket/seal - there should be new ones with the new filter. I always have to bleed my engine after changing filters by pumping the lever on the fuel lift pump and then by turning the engine over with the fuel pipe nuts slackened off at the injectors. Tighten them when fuel is spurting out and the engine fires up as I tighten the last one.

 

You may have a pre-filter or water separater closer to the diesel tank which would be like the first filter in Chalky's post.

 

I think! There seem to be so many variations.

 

It is best to watch someone do it if you can and learn that way.

 

Thanks for that John - It's the bleeding thing I wasn't too sure of.

Edited by Night Hawk
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Thanks for that John - It's the bleeding thing I wasn't too sure of.

 

That's something I've never had to do since the Isuzu is designed to self bleed.

 

I ignored the obvious jokes...

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I've got an LPWS3 which is similar to the Canalstar. You need to turn off the diesel at the fuel shut off. The fuel filter on the engine block is a small one with a paper element. This unbolts from underneath, you have to feel for it, and then unscrews and the housing drops down. Replace the filter and screw back up after replacing o rings and gasket/seal - there should be new ones with the new filter. I always have to bleed my engine after changing filters by pumping the lever on the fuel lift pump and then by turning the engine over with the fuel pipe nuts slackened off at the injectors. Tighten them when fuel is spurting out and the engine fires up as I tighten the last one.

Hi JP

This is the earlier type; the metal bowl is about 2.5" dia and similar in length?

Later engines have a larger screw on filter, the OPs original post may imply this type is fitted.

I am no lightwieght, so unscrewing and refitting the later type in exchange for diner sounds ok to me :rolleyes:

Can you post a photo please Night Hawk?

Steve

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Hi JP

This is the earlier type; the metal bowl is about 2.5" dia and similar in length?

Later engines have a larger screw on filter, the OPs original post may imply this type is fitted.

I am no lightwieght, so unscrewing and refitting the later type in exchange for diner sounds ok to me :rolleyes:

Can you post a photo please Night Hawk?

Steve

Ok it looks like its an old SR's filter The Crosland type with the securing bolt up underneath. The elements no is Crosland 489.Or Fram C11941PL

Edited by bizzard
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Hi JP

This is the earlier type; the metal bowl is about 2.5" dia and similar in length?

Later engines have a larger screw on filter, the OPs original post may imply this type is fitted.

I am no lightwieght, so unscrewing and refitting the later type in exchange for diner sounds ok to me :rolleyes:

Can you post a photo please Night Hawk?

Steve

 

Yes, looking at photos of the current Canal Star, the filters are nothing like mine, which is as you describe. Modern engines are self-bleeding too.

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Andrew

 

Assuming it's the same set-up as the LPWS3, then it's not difficult, but it may well be a bit fiddly and messy, as once you slacken the bolt that goes through the filter housing, any fuel in the housing will start to leak out, right where you are trying to operate a spanner!

 

Peter

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Andrew

 

Assuming it's the same set-up as the LPWS3, then it's not difficult, but it may well be a bit fiddly and messy, as once you slacken the bolt that goes through the filter housing, any fuel in the housing will start to leak out, right where you are trying to operate a spanner!

 

Peter

 

My LPWS3 has a spin-on fuel filter. All the other LPWS engines I have seen have spin on filters. Perhaps Chris-B of Marine Engine Services from whom I source my filters, could enlighten us,

 

Regards

Ditchdabbler

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Hi JP

This is the earlier type; the metal bowl is about 2.5" dia and similar in length?

Later engines have a larger screw on filter, the OPs original post may imply this type is fitted.

I am no lightwieght, so unscrewing and refitting the later type in exchange for diner sounds ok to me :rolleyes:

Can you post a photo please Night Hawk?

Steve

 

Not a chance of a photo till the w/end....Busy planting a herbaceous border here at home...The fuel filter looks like the oil filter in my 12 yr old Canal Star engine...a large, screw in thing!

 

A

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How old is this Canal Star as they called the Lister SR2 and 3 with the Lister LH150 hydraulic g/box of early 1980's vintage that also.

 

No they didn't !

The "Early" canalstars were Lister marinised ST's !

Pedantic I know but correct information is better...

 

If the op would like to give me a ring I will,talk them through the filter change

 

Chris

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No they didn't !

The "Early" canalstars were Lister marinised ST's !

Pedantic I know but correct information is better...

 

If the op would like to give me a ring I will,talk them through the filter change

 

Chris

Well your the expert old chap,but you could be a little more polite,instead of stamping your foot Chris.

However i once in 1981 hired a 36'Springer from Foxton boat services which had a Canal Star engine in it,it had the Canal Star label attached to it,it was a long time ago but i'm ALMOST certain it was an SR2,but not sure.

Here is an extract from the ''Fishing vessel data base''dept of transport, MCA, google it yourself.

 

5 Lister Canal Stars listed. HP taken at their lower range.

 

C/star 18. 2cyl. 2600revs. 13hp.------Likely to be the ST2,in my opinion.

C/star 2. 2cyl. 2000revs. 10hp ------Likely to be the SR2.

C/star 27. 3cyl. 2600revs. 20hp------ Likely to be the ST3.

C/star 3. 3cyl. 2000revs. 15hp------ Likely to be the SR3.

C/star 36. 4cyl. 2600revs. 27hp.

 

 

 

 

Regards bizzard.

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Well your the expert old chap,but you could be a little more polite,instead of stamping your foot Chris.

However i once in 1981 hired a 36'Springer from Foxton boat services which had a Canal Star engine in it,it had the Canal Star label attached to it,it was a long time ago but i'm ALMOST certain it was an SR2,but not sure.

Here is an extract from the ''Fishing vessel data base''dept of transport, MCA, google it yourself.

 

5 Lister Canal Stars listed. HP taken at their lower range.

 

C/star 18. 2cyl. 2600revs. 13hp.------Likely to be the ST2,in my opinion.

C/star 2. 2cyl. 2000revs. 10hp ------Likely to be the SR2.

C/star 27. 3cyl. 2600revs. 20hp------ Likely to be the ST3.

C/star 3. 3cyl. 2000revs. 15hp------ Likely to be the SR3.

C/star 36. 4cyl. 2600revs. 27hp.

 

 

 

 

Regards bizzard.

Far from footstamping Bizzard ! it's the way i type/write and mostly speak.. I can be blunt at times thats me !

fyi. The Canalstar range both ST and Alpha have both in my and Listers opinion have

A) never been made or offered in an SR format

B) Never been offered to the MCA or Regulatory agency in "Canalstar" format for commercial purposes, the commercial ST was a ST2 or3 M ( with or without the following (GR) donating gearbox /reduction

or in Alpha range that would be "workboat" specification

 

I will download the exact derivatives and rpm/hp specs when I get time

 

All the best

Chris

:cheers:

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Not a chance of a photo till the w/end....Busy planting a herbaceous border here at home...The fuel filter looks like the oil filter in my 12 yr old Canal Star engine...a large, screw in thing!

 

A

 

That will be the later type then.

Chris B is your man for this, he doesn't bite!

Steve

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its no harder than the oil filter...

 

as said if its the LPSW4 the the fuel filter is one of the cartridge types the manual instructions are :

 

02.12.1 Changing the Cartridge Agglomerator

Water is drained from the agglomerator by

unscrewing the drain tap © sufficiently to allow the

water to drain.

1. Using a suitable strap wrench unscrew the

cartridge (A) from the head (B).

2. Screw a new cartridge onto the head and hand

tighten it.

Figure 2.12.1 Cartridge Agglomerator

3. Fill the fuel tank and prime the system.

4. Run the engine and check to see that no fuel is

leaking from the agglomerator.

 

so basically turn off the fuel supply at the tank, drain and unsrew the old filter and screw in the new one.

 

 

Then open the fuel tap and loosen the bleed screw (little bolt sticking out of the top of the housing which is not a fixing bolt or holding a pipe in place) prime the system by hand (lever under fuel pump ) until no more bubbles appear. Tighten up the bleed screw (wipe up any spilt fuel) and start the engine - simples !

 

(sorry I can't find a way of pasting the little picture into this reply)

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Thanks for much for all that...I might pluck up the courage...its the priming bit that might cause some head scratching...but hay ho!

 

A

the chaps at Marine engineering services will sell you the offical workshop manual for about £25 i think i paid. so probably less than you paid for the meal ! if you PM me I'll send you a pdf of the lister alpha series manual which is near enough for many of the simple/routine jobs.

 

jon

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