Led Lighting

[gralyn]

I am keen to change the wall mounted lights from bulbs to LEDs and have bought some LEDs to replace the bulbs. In other posts where this process has been described the use of "High Temperature" silicon sealant has been used as a "Glue". I have looked at lots of silicon sealants on sale but have yet to find the High Temperature versions. Question: Where do you get this magic gunge from?.

[ChrisPy]

chandlers and stove suppliers.

 

it's used for stove flues

[bizzard]

I am keen to change the wall mounted lights from bulbs to LEDs and have bought some LEDs to replace the bulbs. In other posts where this process has been described the use of "High Temperature" silicon sealant has been used as a "Glue". I have looked at lots of silicon sealants on sale but have yet to find the High Temperature versions. Question: Where do you get this magic gunge from?.

I wouldn't bother with that for LED lights they only get slightly warmish. Ordinary silicon sealant seems to stand the heat just as well as the red so called heat resistant stuff in my experience anyway.

[station tug]

I wouldn't bother with that for LED lights they only get slightly warmish. Ordinary silicon sealant seems to stand the heat just as well as the red so called heat resistant stuff in my experience anyway.

 

 

totaly agree..if ya look back on my posts iv put step by step pics on how to remove the incan bulb holder and solder n silicone the leds in..normal silicone is fine

[bizzard]

totaly agree..if ya look back on my posts iv put step by step pics on how to remove the incan bulb holder and solder n silicone the leds in..normal silicone is fine

I've even used ordinary £2 quid a tube black Silicon as an experiment on my stoves top plate to flue joint,its been there 2 years now and still ok,mind you i don't have my stove roaring away almost red hot like some folk,it just ticks over all the time.

Edited December 17, 2011 by bizzard

[Pretty Funked Up]

any car parts places should have high temp silicon also, if youre still looking.

[blackrose]

Why would one need to use silicone when changing regular bulbs to LEDs?

 

I just used replacement LEDs from these people: http://www.bedazzled.uk.com/

 

They just fit into the standard bayonet fittings - no need for silicone!

 

But if you still want it for some reason: http://www.geocel.co.uk/product.aspx?id=80&pr=dctm

Edited December 17, 2011 by blackrose

[bizzard]

Why would one need to use silicone when changing regular bulbs to LEDs?

 

I just used replacement LEDs from these people: http://www.bedazzled.uk.com/

 

They just fit into the standard bayonet fittings - no need for silicone!

 

But if you still want it for some reason: http://www.geocel.co.uk/product.aspx?id=80&pr=dctm

I think Station Tugs doing it a lot cheaper by soldering in LED's himself and silicon is the best stuff to surround the electrical contacts on the bases with.

[Androo]

Why would one need to use silicone when changing regular bulbs to LEDs?

 

I just used replacement LEDs from these people: http://www.bedazzled.uk.com/

 

They just fit into the standard bayonet fittings - no need for silicone!

 

But if you still want it for some reason: http://www.geocel.co.uk/product.aspx?id=80&pr=dctm

 

 

I thought the same.

 

I have bayonet type bulbs and I have purchased bayonet LED's

[bizzard]

I have somewhere a little circuit diagram of how to knock up your own LED lights complete with resistors,very very cheaply.

Edited December 17, 2011 by bizzard

[Chalky]

Depends how you want to do it. A proper job using power LEDs needs a heat sink and a small electronic power supply. The power LEDS will get very hot and need cooling otherwise their life expectancy in minutes. A decent power LED (Bridgelux, Seoul, or Cree are makes to look for) will easily out perform a 20W halogen and take about 4 watts. They will be very bright. A typical conversion costs about £4 for the LED, £10 for the power supply and about £3 for the RFI filter. The LED is attached to the heat sink with screws and has some silicon heat transfer component (not glue, never sets) between the LED & heat sink. I use the metal case of the lamp as the heat sink.

 

If you're using small low power LEDs then they don't get very hot and you could use a resistor as a current limiter. You also won't get much light from them either.

Edited December 17, 2011 by Chalky

[Biggles]

I've even used ordinary £2 quid a tube black Silicon as an experiment on my stoves top plate to flue joint,its been there 2 years now and still ok,mind you i don't have my stove roaring away almost red hot like some folk,it just ticks over all the time.

 

 

Really? I need to seal the flue to my gas fire and the heat resistant stuff is £10 a tube. I don't know how hot the fire gets but doubt it would boil water if placed on top.

 

Sorry to go off topic.

[blackrose]

Really? I need to seal the flue to my gas fire and the heat resistant stuff is £10 a tube. I don't know how hot the fire gets but doubt it would boil water if placed on top.

 

Sorry to go off topic.

 

Or just over a fiver from Screwfix. http://www.screwfix.com/p/geocel-trade-mate-plumba-flue-silicone-black-310ml/66373

[bizzard]

Really? I need to seal the flue to my gas fire and the heat resistant stuff is £10 a tube. I don't know how hot the fire gets but doubt it would boil water if placed on top.

 

Sorry to go off topic.

I've used clear and black ordinary silicon on my own hot things like the flue and frankly i think once the acetic acid cure has finished stinking they're all pretty much the same for their none flammable heat resistance.I use the red stuff on other folks boats though. ''Ok'' if you heat it up to near red or so it will break down and crumble but so does the red SPECIAL heat resistant type,its possibly exactly the same stuff with red dye in it and so we might be being conned again!.

[davewally]

Hi

 

when the glass came loose in my oven door I looked for clear high temp silicone. It was expensive for the small amount I needed.

I just used my tube of ordinary clear silicone, thinking that if it didn't work I hadn't lost anything.

That was ten years ago and it is still working, though it has gone slightly brown.

 

ps it was the inner glass, the hot one.

 

Ta

 

Dave

[station tug]

Depends how you want to do it. A proper job using power LEDs needs a heat sink and a small electronic power supply. The power LEDS will get very hot and need cooling otherwise their life expectancy in minutes. A decent power LED (Bridgelux, Seoul, or Cree are makes to look for) will easily out perform a 20W halogen and take about 4 watts. They will be very bright. A typical conversion costs about £4 for the LED, £10 for the power supply and about £3 for the RFI filter. The LED is attached to the heat sink with screws and has some silicon heat transfer component (not glue, never sets) between the LED & heat sink. I use the metal case of the lamp as the heat sink.

 

If you're using small low power LEDs then they don't get very hot and you could use a resistor as a current limiter. You also won't get much light from them either.

 

the led's im using iv run upto 15.2 volts without any drama......iv just built a 12oo lumin mag light which uses a lovely cree led and funky controller..that produces heat..the heat sink is large and i had to modify the bezil...leds are the way forward

[gralyn]

Thanks for all the advice. I will try the ordinary silicon first. Will report back if I have any problems.