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It's wood and resin. Very hardwearing, highly water-resistant etc.

 

Others will be along shortly to give their opinions.

 

Tony

 

thanks tony that should be able to do the job as long as i can cut to size and fit lift rings hopefully two sheets of 8x4 will cover the deck

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i am looking to replace the deck boards on my cruiser stern as they are in need of replacement. any suggestions as to if marine ply will do or if a differnt material will be better?

If you decide on ply, whether as a base or as a whole - edge it with hardwood, good waterproof glue, seal it. Stops the ply delaminating with water ingress!

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thanks tony that should be able to do the job as long as i can cut to size and fit lift rings hopefully two sheets of 8x4 will cover the deck

You can cut it with usual woodworking tools but it will blunt them incredibly quickly, so have a spare sawblade or two.

 

Tony

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anyone know how Hexagrip compares with Buffalo board

http://catalogue.chi...ct19090625.html

 

Yes Hexagrip panels on my boat (new in 2005) are still pretty good.

 

Locker tops in our fore-deck, made by me from Buffalo board only 3 years ago, are already de-laminating and turning to Weetabix ,despite edges being painted to stop ingress of water as recommended.

 

Hexagrip for me next time.

 

David

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If you decide on ply, whether as a base or as a whole - edge it with hardwood, good waterproof glue, seal it. Stops the ply delaminating with water ingress!

I used this fixed with Balcotan glue and screws:

http://www.goodingalum.com/p10/c12/Aluminium-Stair-Nosing-/Treads

Lovely job

Edited by ChrisPy
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hi folks

 

i am looking to replace the deck boards on my cruiser stern as they are in need of replacement. any suggestions as to if marine ply will do or if a differnt material will be better?

 

Having read the above posts, have used Rhino board which is similar to Heaxagrip, sourced from local timber merchants in 8' by 4' stock sheets. There are two grades, which seem to be economy and more expensive. Go for the more expesive as the cheaper will turn to the consistency of weetabix after 2 or 3 years. Would expect to get 6 years plus from the more expensive stuff for an extra £30 or £40 per sheet and would make sense in the long run imo.

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I have used a material which I understood was called Hexideck, it fitted the description above in that it was 18mm thick, totally waterproof without edging and faced with a dark brown hexagon pattern on one side. The big downside was the cost at 80 pounds per 8 x 4 sheet.

Mike.

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I have a similar delamination problem, and have been wondering about making up deck boards by using tongue-and-groove floorboards well glued together with a waterproof polyurethane adhesive. My experience of wood (as opposed to plywood of any sort) is that it can be effectively rot-proofed and does not delaminate.

 

However, are there any fire safety requirements of the Boat Safety Scheme that would prevent the use of ordinary wood as deck boards over an engine compartment? If so, can these be overcome by the application of fire-retardant paint or other covering on the lower surface?

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just a thought,could the boards sold in builders known as "decking be used for making deckboards.

 

it is reputed to be rot resistant

 

if the edges were butted together and bonded with a good quality sealant like sikaflex,they should be noise and watertight.

 

if this material is to heavy in big sections,it could be made up in several sections.

 

probably several reasons why it would be less than ideal,does anyone know of possible flaws in this idea?

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hi folks

 

i am looking to replace the deck boards on my cruiser stern as they are in need of replacement. any suggestions as to if marine ply will do or if a differnt material will be better?

 

Hi

 

Ive always used hexagrip. It is expensive BUT in the long run cheaper than alternatives as it lasts longer than other products.

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just a thought,could the boards sold in builders known as "decking be used for making deckboards.

 

it is reputed to be rot resistant

 

if the edges were butted together and bonded with a good quality sealant like sikaflex,they should be noise and watertight.

 

if this material is to heavy in big sections,it could be made up in several sections.

 

probably several reasons why it would be less than ideal,does anyone know of possible flaws in this idea?

I have used decking to replace my back deck, The plywod decking that was on before was made up of sections that were too big and heavy so to get into the engine was a bit of a problem. When this needed replacing decided to make the sections smaller out of decking board. I joined these together by routing down the centres and putting a strip of wood into the recess and then gluing together. (similar to a biscuit joint only on a bigger scale).

This has worked well for me.

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I have used decking to replace my back deck, The plywod decking that was on before was made up of sections that were too big and heavy so to get into the engine was a bit of a problem. When this needed replacing decided to make the sections smaller out of decking board. I joined these together by routing down the centres and putting a strip of wood into the recess and then gluing together. (similar to a biscuit joint only on a bigger scale).

This has worked well for me.

 

Have you had a Boat Safety Inspection since doing it, or do you know whether there are any Boat Safety Scheme concerns about using plain wood over the engine? I don't want to get it all done and then find that it doesn't meet requirements!

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Have you had a Boat Safety Inspection since doing it, or do you know whether there are any Boat Safety Scheme concerns about using plain wood over the engine? I don't want to get it all done and then find that it doesn't meet requirements!

AFAIA there's nothing in the BSS about this other than the generic "No sign of heat damage" (i.e. charring).

 

http://www.boatsafetyscheme.com/site/2ndedBSSEssentialGuide_212.asp

 

Tony

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Have you had a Boat Safety Inspection since doing it, or do you know whether there are any Boat Safety Scheme concerns about using plain wood over the engine? I don't want to get it all done and then find that it doesn't meet requirements!

My engine is surrounded by wood and I've never had any BSS problems.

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AFAIA there's nothing in the BSS about this other than the generic "No sign of heat damage" (i.e. charring).

 

http://www.boatsafet...alGuide_212.asp

 

Tony

 

 

My engine is surrounded by wood and I've never had any BSS problems.

 

Thanks, Tony and Carl, very reassuring (despite Tony's laughter)! Looks like decking boards will be a good option, jointed together as suggested by Brin:

 

I have used decking to replace my back deck, The plywod decking that was on before was made up of sections that were too big and heavy so to get into the engine was a bit of a problem. When this needed replacing decided to make the sections smaller out of decking board. I joined these together by routing down the centres and putting a strip of wood into the recess and then gluing together. (similar to a biscuit joint only on a bigger scale).

This has worked well for me.

 

Thanks, all.

 

Dave T.

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