Gas Pipe

[Moley]

Got it!

 

Where my galley floor tiles meet the saloon carpet I think I'll rout a groove across the deck and cover it with a removable carpet gripper bar - any objections to that?

[John Orentas]

Got it!

 

Where my galley floor tiles meet the saloon carpet I think I'll rout a groove across the deck and cover it with a removable carpet gripper bar - any objections to that?

 

 

Hi Moley.

 

I missed the reasoning as to why you couldn't take the pipe above and fixed to the deckhead, this would be the better option.

[Moley]

I missed the reasoning as to why you couldn't take the pipe above and fixed to the deckhead, this would be the better option.

Just because it has to be accessible doesn't mean I want it to be visible, plus I will have a centre panel running the length of the deckhead containing wires and centre lighting, so the gas pipe would have to step over this too.

[John Orentas]

Just because it has to be accessible doesn't mean I want it to be visible, plus I will have a centre panel running the length of the deckhead containing wires and centre lighting, so the gas pipe would have to step over this too.

 

 

It can always be covered by a beading of some kind, couldn't it cross most of the way on a bulkhead wall. Crossing wiring is ok as long as there is a small gap and perhaps with a metallic barrier. Don't know about you but I don't like the idea of running across the floor even in a protected trench.

[Moley]

Don't know about you but I don't like the idea of running across the floor even in a protected trench.

 

No, I think I've got it sorted. It will only need to be channeled across a 2ft corridor, and can then be skirted around the edge of the bathroom and up inside a galley cupboard.

 

Many thanks to everyone,

Ade.

[DHutch]

You could PM/email rob@bss and see what he says about it?

[stuart]

No, I think I've got it sorted. It will only need to be channeled across a 2ft corridor, and can then be skirted around the edge of the bathroom and up inside a galley cupboard.

 

Many thanks to everyone,

Ade.

 

I'd still be careful about running it around the floor area, its difficult to detect a leak when the pipes are low - effectively filling the bilge with LPG.

 

I'd suggest following Dans advice and mail Rob@BSS.

[Moley]

OK, relax, I've just come back from the boat, having re-laid another section of new flooring, and have had chance for a good look round, and I think 'over the top' is do-able, it will only mean crossing 2ft of ceiling, then I can skirt round edge of bathroom bulkhead and drop down. I should be able to hide it quite effectively.

[alan_fincher]

In any case, the boat's 20+, so who's to say when the gas was installed?

 

Interesting and educational debate this one - it's not an area I've studied, so it's prompted me to actually go and scan the relevant BSS document, and start to educate myself more.

 

One thing that the old hands probably know, but I didn't until now, is that unlike other bits of the BSS documentation, there seems to be very few, (possibly none of), the bits that say, "doesn't apply if the boat was built before 19xx".

 

So it doesn't look to me like you get any special dispensation just because you have an older boat that was built before the latest versions of the guide were published ?

 

Is that correct ?

 

In fact on an older boat, it's tougher in a way , because you are likely to have hoses stamped with dates that are well past their "sell by" date.....

 

BSS 7.8.6 best practice: we recommend following industry best practice and keep the pipework as high as possible.

 

Yes, there doesn't actually seem to be anything that says you can't go below floors, provided it can all be made easily accessible for inspection.

 

But somehow, it just doesn't feel right at all to me, and I agree with all the posters who have said it's not a good idea.

 

I see you've found an "over the top" route, and that sounds sensible to me, but I think it must still all have easily removed covers if you want to keep the examiner happy.

 

That bit of ours is OK, but I'm not sure where I'd find the easily accessible test point that must be somewhere. Must have a look a long while before next inspection due !....

[Gary Stacey]

I have gone across the corridor in a trench routed in the floorboards as previously suggested, this later covered over by a protective cover. There are no joins in this run so I cant se it being a problem.

 

Gary

[Guest]

Is it me, or does anyone else think that the new regs on the BSC are difficult to understand when compared to the old ones? Perhaps I just got used to the old ones?

[Cafnod]

Is it me, or does anyone else think that the new regs on the BSC are difficult to understand when compared to the old ones? Perhaps I just got used to the old ones?

 

 

I know where you are coming from here Catweasel.

What is the score with doing you own gas now? As we are moored in a hire basin where they build their own boats they have a CORGI registered marine gas fitter on site who can do ours, I intend a very simple installation anyway; single reg/flexi hose/nozzle pipe/nozzle/flexi/cooker, with the appropriate shut off valves and test point(s).

I intended talking through the regs/specs with the fitter and then running and clipping back the pipe, getting themto tighten up the unions and comission the appliance.

Asume that will be the cheapest and easiest way and has to conform to RCD BSS etc.

[John Orentas]

Is it me, or does anyone else think that the new regs on the BSC are difficult to understand when compared to the old ones? Perhaps I just got used to the old ones?

 

 

Yes I find the same thing, vague and woolly, they don't seem to be able to make up their minds what is compulsory and what is recommended. Some aspects seem to be both, or either, or neither. It was a good well written document when it was first introduced even though it was well over the top in many ways.

[lymmranger]

Mine runs down the centre of the ceiling in a space with wires. But my cabling is in condiut which was allowed last time I had the test.

 

Please tell me that this is still allowed.........

 

As said previously I am sick of changing a safe system......

 

After all I have flame failure to all burners, I have a bubble tester, I have a gas alarm.......

 

What more can I do????????????

 

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

[John Orentas]

Mine runs down the centre of the ceiling in a space with wires. But my cabling is in condiut which was allowed last time I had the test.

 

Please tell me that this is still allowed.........

 

As said previously I am sick of changing a safe system......

 

After all I have flame failure to all burners, I have a bubble tester, I have a gas alarm.......

 

What more can I do????????????

 

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

 

 

Well I hope the examiner chap made you buy a new set of fire extinguishers, if he didn't it was a sloppy job.

 

I am sure your wiring is OK a conduit is seen as a sufficient barrier.

[Guest]

Well I hope the examiner chap made you buy a new set of fire extinguishers, if he didn't it was a sloppy job.

 

I am sure your wiring is OK a conduit is seen as a sufficient barrier.

As I understand it conduit should be OK.

Fire extinguishers: I had to buy some of those 'orrible powder things (anyone ever tried to use these on a fire?-I have they are garbage) and hide the big CO2 jobbies that I would like to use if we were unfortunate enough to ever get the boat on fire. I know about CO2 removing oxygen from cabin etc., but I would take my chances with the CO2.

[John Orentas]

As I understand it conduit should be OK.

Fire extinguishers: I had to buy some of those 'orrible powder things (anyone ever tried to use these on a fire?-I have they are garbage) and hide the big CO2 jobbies that I would like to use if we were unfortunate enough to ever get the boat on fire. I know about CO2 removing oxygen from cabin etc., but I would take my chances with the CO2.

 

 

In my caravan days I had a bit of a gas leak and I was having problems pinpointing it, under the sink somewhere, anyway I was feeling around with a lighted match (we used to do things like that then) the inevitable minor conflagration occurred and a brave moronic hero from the next van rushed in and proceeded to blast that powder stuff all over the place.

 

I had that caravan another two years but that damned stuff defied all effort to clean it up, I always say I would rather have a fire. I know you are not allowed CO2 types in sleeping accommodation but I keep one in the engine room, everyone on my boat is told that those powder things which I have had to put up all over the place are positively the 'last resort' after buckets of water.

 

See; Fit out good ideas, Engine Fires, 22 Dec. '04

Edited February 24, 2006 by John Orentas

[Guest]

Agreed on powder extinguishers, and as has been said before, Co2 extinguishers stop a diesel runaway nicely.

Many gas pipe joints have been tested that way John! Of course I am not condoning this method.

[Guest]

. . . I have flame failure to all burners . . .

Appologies for simple question - I'm not a "build your own" and I'm not anything of a DIY guy, but the subject is relevant to anyone who owns a boat . . . so, whats a "flame failure" ?

where does it go?

what does it do?

and how does it do it?

[dor]

so, whats a "flame failure" ?

 

An FFD (Flame Failure Device) is like the thermocouple on gas fires and boilers. What it does is shut off the gas if the flame goes out.

 

Most gas ovens will have one, but it is rare in a domestic hob. It is however now required on new cookers fitted to boats.

[DHutch]

An FFD (Flame Failure Device) is like the thermocouple on gas fires and boilers. What it does is shut off the gas if the flame goes out.

Also now called a FSD or flame supervision device.

- Its the thing the means you have to hold down the nob for 2/3seconds to prevent it going stright out again.

 

 

Daniel

[Guest]

- Its the thing . . you have to hold down the nob for 2/3seconds to prevent it going stright out again.

 

Thanks both

On my hob, I have to push the tap and turn, then light the gas, then hold the tap pushed in for a couple of seconds to prevent the flame going out again. Does this mean that there is an FFD/FSD incorporated in the mechanism?

[alan_fincher]

Thanks both

On my hob, I have to push the tap and turn, then light the gas, then hold the tap pushed in for a couple of seconds to prevent the flame going out again. Does this mean that there is an FFD/FSD incorporated in the mechanism?

 

Yes !