Jump to content

Gary Stacey

Member
  • Posts

    206
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Gary Stacey's Achievements

Collaborator

Collaborator (5/12)

0

Reputation

  1. easier with a bow thruster incoming.............
  2. Sorry for the delay in responding Colin I have been away for a few days. My hatches are edged in box section so I just drilled iin from the sides to hold the wood. I see no reason why you cannot drill through the steel face of the doors/hatches and use coutersunk screws so you can fill and paint to leave no trace! I have seen this done on a number of other boats! Gary
  3. I wouldnt use airtec foor a door as you will end up with a very thick door in order to get the correct airgap either side of the airtec. I used just old capet/underlay between the wood and the steel. i sealed the edges of the woood and this seems to work ok with no condensation problemshope this helpsGary Thats exactly what airtec is like! Hard to believe its insulating qualities are equivilant to 50 mil or so of polystyrene, but it is. There is a test of the stuff somewhere on the web which I think was mentioned somewhere elese on this forumGary Is this link correct? all I get is a fiberglass products company?Gary This looks a lot like thinsulate and maybe cheaper?Gary
  4. It might work but ideally you need to leave an air gap either side of the airtec. Gary
  5. and the force applied to its end is dependant on the fuel air mix entering the cyclinder which is dependant upon the gov setting which in turn is dependant upon the load. Hence power (the rate of doing work = force x distance x time) is proportional to both torque (which is dependant upon how much fuel/air mix is going into an engine at a given RPM) and RPM Gary
  6. Yes exactly, conservation of energy really, every action has an equal and opposite re-action and all that. If you ran an engine uncoupled as 1200 RPM it can only be producing enough power to overcome its own inefficiencies. If you coupled it up to a load the gov would try to increase power at that RPM to match the load. Torque and horsepower are not just dependant upon the RPM, the amount of fuel/air entering each cyclinder also is a great factor! energy in = energy out - inefficiencies Gary
  7. I have used this on the roof sections of my barge. I trapped it inbetween the box section roof beams and the battens to give an airgap above and below as per the instructions. Seems to work rally well but needs sealing completely as per a vapour barrier to prevent warm air coming into contact with the steelwork. So far I have had no problems with condensation - During a particularly cold period one time I removed some of my cladding, peeled back the airtec to find that the steelwork behind was dry as a bone. The main advantage of this stuff i would say is its cost and the fact that you can get to the steelwork if you want it is also very easy to install overhead. Main disadvantage is the need to seal it completely but for the roof this did not prove to be too difficult. Gary
  8. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  9. Looks like it could be perhaps a bargain for those willing to put in the work http://search.ebay.co.uk/search/search.dll...russell+newbury
  10. Can a borg warner gearbox be 'freewheeled' i.e. can the output shaft be turned for any length of time (with the engine off)without damaging the box? Gary
  11. so what size calorifier would you need for a modest size domestic bath? would 75 liters be enough? I have had a quick measure and our bath seems to hold about 115litres when filled to a reasonable depth (1.05 x 0.46 x approx 0.24 metres)
  12. Gary Stacey

    Baths

    so what size calorifier would you need for a modest size domestic bath? would 75 liters be enough? I have had a quick measure and our bath seems to hold about 115litres when filled to a reasonable depth (1.05 x 0.46 x approx 0.24 metres)
  13. I recently broke down on the tidal trent in my barge and as a result of this experience am considering fitting a 'wing' engine to my boat. The boat in question is a flat bottom 55' x 10' barge whcih has a perkins 6354 as its main propulsion unit. I was cosidering something along the lines of a 20HP diesel driving its own prop. I have seen such an arrangement on see going boats but never on a barge. Has anyone any experience with this? What about the helpful chaps at ledgard bridge? regards Gary
  14. I was lucky enough to be given a light very similar to this the other day. Made by lucas, with a beam adjustment thingy on the back. Gary
  15. I am with you Carlt...it would appear that certain other parties have lost the plot!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.