12v Wall Lights

[RichardH]

We are in the final stages of our first new build hire boat (which we will be taking to Crick)

 

Does anyone know of a good supplier of quality wall lights - both the flush fitting reading types and also lounge lights.

 

Our current sources have dried up a bit !

 

Cheers

 

Richard

[FORTUNATA]

Since nobody has answered I'll share what I learned from John C Payne's terrific electrical marine book which has a whole section on lighting. Basically what he points out is how crucial timber and paint is for internal lighting. They are all reflective so a wise cholice in paint and timber will allow for less use of light. White is about the best and I forget which natural woods reflect best.

Incandescent lighting if I recall is the biggest energy user as a lot of heat is generated to create the light. Therefore not really so efficient. Look around for energy efficient lights that are lower wattage but bright. Not all flourescent tubes are incandescent and some are low energy. My own boat has spot lights 20 watts each one which are good although I notice they sometimes overheat and sometimes go dead and have to be replaced.

Thus, much depends on colour and energy and planning. A good design uses well spaced ceiling lights and well situated spot lights for reading.

 

We are in the final stages of our first new build hire boat (which we will be taking to Crick)

 

Does anyone know of a good supplier of quality wall lights - both the flush fitting reading types and also lounge lights.

 

Our current sources have dried up a bit !

 

Cheers

 

Richard

 

You didn't add whether these lights will be used via battery banks or if a mains plug in or generator are always on hand. Even so, I'd say energy calculations are always a good idea.

 

We are in the final stages of our first new build hire boat (which we will be taking to Crick)

 

Does anyone know of a good supplier of quality wall lights - both the flush fitting reading types and also lounge lights.

 

Our current sources have dried up a bit !

 

Cheers

 

Richard

[Sunset Rising]

The title said 12 volt.

[Batavia]

If you want high quality lights, made from materials that don't tarnish, then try www.cabin.dk

 

We have had several different styles from them, all excellent, but certainly not cheap. There is a UK agent (whose name currently escapes me).

 

Chris G

[RichardH]

Since nobody has answered I'll share what I learned from John C Payne's terrific electrical marine book which has a whole section on lighting. Basically what he points out is how crucial timber and paint is for internal lighting. They are all reflective so a wise cholice in paint and timber will allow for less use of light. White is about the best and I forget which natural woods reflect best.

Incandescent lighting if I recall is the biggest energy user as a lot of heat is generated to create the light. Therefore not really so efficient. Look around for energy efficient lights that are lower wattage but bright. Not all flourescent tubes are incandescent and some are low energy. My own boat has spot lights 20 watts each one which are good although I notice they sometimes overheat and sometimes go dead and have to be replaced.

Thus, much depends on colour and energy and planning. A good design uses well spaced ceiling lights and well situated spot lights for reading.

 

 

 

You didn't add whether these lights will be used via battery banks or if a mains plug in or generator are always on hand. Even so, I'd say energy calculations are always a good idea.

 

Yep - 12v is how it is set up.

 

We already have some fantastic LED's in the ceiling which weren't cheap but look awesome.

 

If you want high quality lights, made from materials that don't tarnish, then try www.cabin.dk

 

We have had several different styles from them, all excellent, but certainly not cheap. There is a UK agent (whose name currently escapes me).

 

Chris G

 

Thanks Chris, I will give them a try

[starman]

If you want high quality lights, made from materials that don't tarnish, then try www.cabin.dk

 

We have had several different styles from them, all excellent, but certainly not cheap. There is a UK agent (whose name currently escapes me).

 

Chris G

 

Calibra Marine - one of those expensive yachty chandlers so you can guess the lights won't be cheap!

[sueb]

We have crystal wall lights in our bedroom with 12v coach bulbs. They work a treat you can use any 240v lights with 12v bulbs.

Sue

[stevetreader]

I would say the LED type are best, due to low wattage you can fit more for the same battery life. Puffer Parts in Yorksire on the Leeds Liverpool has some good tried and tested LED fittings at reasonable prices. I tend to like the saloon type in brass with shades. I have fitted warm white LED's to these and they work fine. I think the early LED's had a very harsh white light but that has now been addressed.

The most important is to fit something that complements the style of the boat I have seen some really bad plastic fittings installed in traditional wood boats they stood out like a sail on a narrowboat.

[pearley]

Calibra Marine - one of those expensive yachty chandlers so you can guess the lights won't be cheap!

I looked at their website and quite liked one of the lights. I asked the price. £149 and not even gold plated!

[canallover]

Although my boat has some 12V flourescents, I decided to rather add an 11watt (energy saving) 220V light in the lounge, kitchen and bedroom. I also added a 2.8Watt LED 220V light in the same 3 rooms. Plan to run them all through an inverter. Have I made a mistake, or would you say it's acceptable to do it this way now if light wattages have dropped drastically? I find the 11Watts are bright enough to light the whole room, and the 2.8Watts are bright enough to light up a desk area. I'm still on a marina mooring (220Volt hookup) but will change to invertor when crusing. It also means that when moored for winter in a marina, I can change the bulbs easily to larger ones if I want (bayonet on the 11Watt and GU10 on the 2.8Watt). I know this doesnt seem to be the "way it's done" but if I'm happy with the light levels, the wattages seem quite low..and shouldnt chew the batteries. Am I right?

[charles123]

Although my boat has some 12V flourescents, I decided to rather add an 11watt (energy saving) 220V light in the lounge, kitchen and bedroom. I also added a 2.8Watt LED 220V light in the same 3 rooms. Plan to run them all through an inverter. Have I made a mistake, or would you say it's acceptable to do it this way now if light wattages have dropped drastically? I find the 11Watts are bright enough to light the whole room, and the 2.8Watts are bright enough to light up a desk area. I'm still on a marina mooring (220Volt hookup) but will change to invertor when crusing. It also means that when moored for winter in a marina, I can change the bulbs easily to larger ones if I want (bayonet on the 11Watt and GU10 on the 2.8Watt). I know this doesnt seem to be the "way it's done" but if I'm happy with the light levels, the wattages seem quite low..and shouldnt chew the batteries. Am I right?

 

You have not made a mistake. Your approach is what I am planning for my build, but is a bit unconventional for the canal community so may take a while to catch on. You have the best approach to maximise the lumens. I would also consider a mixture of LED both 12v and 220v as the mixture of light quality is very pleasing with the harsh white of LED offset by the 11 watt low energy bulbs. Also you can get 48 SMD LED 220v bulbs quite cheaply and you don't have the voltage fluctuation problem that can "blow" 12v leds

 

Charles

[starman]

I looked at their website and quite liked one of the lights. I asked the price. £149 and not even gold plated!

 

You know what they say "if you have to ask the price you can't afford it"

[nb Innisfree]

Although my boat has some 12V flourescents, I decided to rather add an 11watt (energy saving) 220V light in the lounge, kitchen and bedroom. I also added a 2.8Watt LED 220V light in the same 3 rooms. Plan to run them all through an inverter. Have I made a mistake, or would you say it's acceptable to do it this way now if light wattages have dropped drastically? I find the 11Watts are bright enough to light the whole room, and the 2.8Watts are bright enough to light up a desk area. I'm still on a marina mooring (220Volt hookup) but will change to invertor when crusing. It also means that when moored for winter in a marina, I can change the bulbs easily to larger ones if I want (bayonet on the 11Watt and GU10 on the 2.8Watt). I know this doesnt seem to be the "way it's done" but if I'm happy with the light levels, the wattages seem quite low..and shouldnt chew the batteries. Am I right?

 

We've had great success with 230v triphosphor strip lights run through a Victron, one 20 watter is enough to light the whole lounge and dining area, bit pricey but well worth it.