Weed Hatch

[ditchcrawler]

My weedhatch is underneath the rear deck and can only be removed by tilting it forward. I found that rubber foam stuck to the rim of the top of the *box* soon became dislodged. The answer which works for me is a piece of solid ¼ ins rubber mat cut to the overall size of the hatch with just enough of the centre cut out so it can be stretched over the bottom plate of the hatch and then fits snugly to the underside of the hatch. This arrangement is sturdy and the seal has no joints and requires no adhesives.

Mine is stuck to the under side of the lid (more area to stick to) I have had it suggested to use an oblong of closed cell foam as used in roll up mattresses or wet suits stuck to the under side of the lid

[paulcatchpole]

Mine is stuck to the under side of the lid (more area to stick to) I have had it suggested to use an oblong of closed cell foam as used in roll up mattresses or wet suits stuck to the under side of the lid

 

Neoprene, a la wetsuit, is what they're often made out of - that or EPDM.

 

We're actually going to use a square of 7mm PU closed-cell PU foam, but that's just 'cause we've got lots. It probably won't seal nicely, like Richard's, but will do for a temporary measure.

 

PC

[luctor et emergo]

Hmmm. Hmmmm indeed...

 

 

Nobody mentioned weed hatch seals before. Can I buy one, or do I have to go out and catch one myself?

 

 

I'm off to go and move my boat tomorrow. Last time I looked, there was lots of rust, and scale, but no seal. Now, the rust and scale have gone (blacking will be applied next), but do I need a seal, or is a deep hatch, with a baffle at the bottom, and a lid at the top, enough??

 

Sounds like I'm going to spend more money tomorrow before I move off....

[Paul Evans]

Nobody mentioned weed hatch seals before. Can I buy one, or do I have to go out and catch one myself?

 

I'm off to go and move my boat tomorrow. Last time I looked, there was lots of rust, and scale, but no seal. Now, the rust and scale have gone (blacking will be applied next), but do I need a seal, or is a deep hatch, with a baffle at the bottom, and a lid at the top, enough??

When you've blacked it (and the black is dry), put the weed hatch back, tighten it up good and tight, turn the engine on, put it in gear and rev up hardish. If you get water squirting from the top of the hatch into the bilge, you need a seal (but turn off quick or you will sink). If no water squirts out, you will probably be OK without but keep an eye on it.

[DHutch]

Blacking on the inside/wetside, whatever ever you want on the dry side.

 

I but jointed my foam too, making sure it was 2-3mm over lenght and bunched up rather then 2-3mm short.

 

Also, i placed the foam on the underside of the hatch, rather than the top edge of the upstand, which i find better.

 

Seal used is stick back neoprene foam.

 

 

 

Dabiel

[David Schweizer]

The weedhatch seal on our boat was tatty when we bought the boat 13 years ago, so I bought some new rubber strip, but it is still in the toolbox because I have not found the need to replace it yet. We get no water coming up the weedhatch trunk sufficientlly far enough to reach the top plate which is always dry.

 

I rather suspect that many people have problems with leaking weedhatches as a consequence of the modern tendancy for shallow draughted boats. The draught on Helvetia is a tad under 33", and with a 17" prop gives a clearance of over 7" between the tips of the prop blades and the Uxter plate, wheras many modern boats have little more than a couple of inches. With all that turbulance so close to the uxter plate on shallow draughted boats, it is hardly suprising that some water gets high up inside the weed hatch trunk.

 

The 7" distance between the prop and uxter plate on our boat probably also accounts for us rarely ever catching or jamming anything on the prop, just as well really because it is a long way down when it does need clearing!

[DHutch]

We have a draft of about 33 inchs also, but a blade thats 26, so splashing does occur even with a well fitting cavitation plate.

[ditchcrawler]

When you've blacked it (and the black is dry), put the weed hatch back, tighten it up good and tight, turn the engine on, put it in gear and rev up hardish. If you get water squirting from the top of the hatch into the bilge, you need a seal (but turn off quick or you will sink). If no water squirts out, you will probably be OK without but keep an eye on it.

Put it back in the water first

 

We have a draft of about 33 inchs also, but a blade thats 26, so splashing does occur even with a well fitting cavitation plate.

I am getting depth envy now, I can only manage 28" but almost zero between the prop tip and the line of the plate