RUST......HOW CAN I PREP MY BOAT

[sanctuary79]

Hi....I would like to prep my boat for spray foam insulation this summer....i have asked the company that do the work and they instructed me that any good quality red oxide is suffient for the foam to go on to.

 

I would love to know how I can get rid of the rust....( she is 30 years young)....there are lots of rust areas...nothing thats needs welding or replacing but surface rust

could i just be lazy and paint stright onto the rust!!!!

 

any products on the market

best practices...any help would be great!

 

Ta

 

[Naughty Cal]

Buzz it down with a DA as best you can. You will never get rid of every bit of rust though and it will be a messy job.

 

If you paint over the rust it will still be there.

[sanctuary79]

Buzz it down with a DA as best you can. You will never get rid of every bit of rust though and it will be a messy job.

 

If you paint over the rust it will still be there.

 

Thanks....ive read some where that a rust sealent might help??? any ideas?

[WotEver]

I'll be the first to start the chorus...

 

Vactan.

 

Available all over the place.

 

Cheers,

Tony

 

little edit to add - you brush off any loose stuff, then apply the vactan - you now have a stable, rust-free, adhesive surface that can be painted, spray-foamed or whatever

Edited February 25, 2010 by WotEver

[sanctuary79]

Thanks good people...

im on the case!

[dove]

We've been using a rust treatment from Williams Paints of Ripon. Seems to be doing the job.

Before

After

 

Andrew

[sanctuary79]

how much did you use...ive just seen a 5l tin....does it need watering down?

my boat is around 35ft inside

how did you apply it?

[dove]

how much did you use...ive just seen a 5l tin....does it need watering down?

my boat is around 35ft inside

how did you apply it?

 

We bought 5 ltrs used about 2 ltrs, that's done about 3/4 of the hold which is about 34 feet. Most of the bottom and about 6 inches up the sides and all the knees.

 

Andrew

[Grace and Favour]

I'd suggest Vactan too:

 

Vactan is "a complex mixture of a vinyl acrylic copolymer and

tannic acid for the treatment of corroded steel and iron surfaces.

Vactan neutralises the corrosion process by converting the rust

into a blue black metallo-organic complex which passivates the

surface. It then further protects the surface by forming a film

with low permeability to water vapour and oxygen. Vactan is self

priming, but for long term protection it is advisable to overcoat

with a suitable water or solvent based midcoat or topcoat."

[blackrose]

VACTAN

 

Paco Systems http://www.paco-systems.co.uk/

[ChrisPy]

or Fertan or milkstone remover or Jenolite ...............

[OldGoldy]

any products on the market

Ferrozinc - go on, google it!

 

I get mine from Jawel Paints, but many other automotive paint suppliers keep it, too (according to google)

including HMG in Manchester, with whom Phil Speight, a CWDF member, is associated.

 

Question though - does anyone have experience of both Ferrozinc and Vactan?

What are the relative merits? (for that, read: which is best?)

[blackrose]

I've only used Vactan but I believe the merits are that there is nothing to remove after treatment so you can paint straight over. With some of the others I think you have to brush or clean off the residue.

 

Actually I did try a bit of Fertan once and the finish didn't seem as good.

Edited February 25, 2010 by blackrose

[Osprey Sprinkler]

There are some nice before and after Vactan pics in Moley's build blog:

 

Talpidae build blog

[Phil Speight]

Buzz it down with a DA as best you can. You will never get rid of every bit of rust though and it will be a messy job.

 

If you paint over the rust it will still be there.

And if it is stubborn you could always try 36 grit linishing disc , on a flexi-pad itself on a grinder.

[DHutch]

Yeah, im not going to suggest brand names.

- But i would go for a cursory inspection with a hand held wire brush and scaling hammer or similar.

- Not really aiming to remove anything other than loose flakes/scale as and where they are present.

- Then go over it all with a propitiatory rust converter to give you a solid base to work with.

- Suitable primer, under coat, top coat. Aiming for 3/4 coats all over everywhere , particularly floor.

 

With an area the size and complexity of the inside of a whole boat mechanical removal isnt really an option.

If you did it would be by gritblasting it, but even that would leave 'shadows' where you could get to and is very messy indeed

 

 

 

Daniel

[sanctuary79]

Thanks...very very helpful

[bag 'o' bones]

For the flat areas a large brush cup mounted in a 9 inch grinder for the bits you can get to easily, small brush cup mounted in a 4.5 inch grinder to get into the harder to reach bits, and an assortment of drill mounted brushes of different sizes to get into the nooks and cranies.

 

 

Such out all the debris with a vacuum cleaner and apply a rust converter of your choice.

 

There are number of ways to remove rust, it all depends on what suits you best.

 

On the subject of zinc rich primers, it might be worth noting that subsequent coats don't seem to stick very well to the zinc.