Ducting on air-cooled Lister

[Guest User]

Does anyone know if domestic aluminium ducting (e.g. from screwfix) is suitable for replacing some now-rather-rotten 6" air ducting on an air-cooled Lister ? ... i.e. this stuff

[Mick_B]

If thats about 5 to 6 inches diameter it's the same as on mine. 1 in and 1 out.

[OldGoldy]

Does anyone know if domestic aluminium ducting (e.g. from screwfix) is suitable for replacing some now-rather-rotten 6" air ducting on an air-cooled Lister ? ... i.e. this stuff

 

My experience of similar products is that they are fairly fragile. Try to get to handle it and see how it is constructed.

 

My SR3 had aluminised cloth duct, and I found it difficult to replace (couldn't buy just 3m). In the end, out of desperation I went to buy some heat-resistant PVC duct that turned out to be only supported by the spirally wound PVC u section - no strength whatsoever, but because I went to the factory and only wanted 3 metres, I was given it FOC. "Too much trouble to write an invoice" the nice man said - I wasn't arguing! It did the job, but was quickly damaged

 

I have since rescued some of the 'proper' stuff, reinforced with a steel coil, from a skip, practically new, too. This is hard to come by new in less than 10m coils (and it's bl**dy expensive). Try and contact a HVAC engineer, they may have some short leftovers. Alternatively, see if anyone else you know needs any and buy a full 10m roll and split it, which is what a local boatyard suggested to me and that they would buy my surplus. I never did 'cos I didn't trust the guy. He's known locally as "Thousand pound (omits name)"..!!

[Radiomariner]

My Lister SR3 Has a canvas air duct, it rotted after about 20 years. I stiched up a new one from a short length of waterproof canvas; still OK 12 years on. It tends to collapse when the engine is not running, but that is no proiblem. No inward air ducting necessary just a vent to the engine space.

Edited February 24, 2010 by Radiomariner

[Biggles]

If thats about 5 to 6 inches diameter it's the same as on mine. 1 in and 1 out.

 

 

That seems a bit narrow to me. I have 2 x 10" tubes! Mine are from a commercial A/C firm locally. Nice and thick with good strong wire spiral inside.

 

If I find a picture I will post it.

 

Biggles

[OldGoldy]

That seems a bit narrow to me. I have 2 x 10" tubes! Mine are from a commercial A/C firm locally. Nice and thick with good strong wire spiral inside.

It's not narrow if you have three lengths.

 

My SR3 has a steel 'box' on the side which converts from a large 'oblong' section to three 6in dia outlets. These then have 3 ducts (abt 1 metre length) to a grille just below gunwhale level. The only times I've seen a single rectangular duct is when the boat has an engine room and the hot air is ducted to roof level.

 

I would imagine Graham! is referring to one duct per cylinder. If not, then one is not enough - according to the guide to cross sectional area in the SR3 manual.

[Guest User]

Yep, it's the same set up as dave69700 describes ... I'm looking to replace all three; they're in parallel for the hot air outflow .... each is 6 inch diameter and about 3ft long, and fairly rotten now. They were originally heavy duty, cloth on steel coil.

[TandC]

Helloah.

 

I used the bog-standard ducting from B&Q on our SR2 - two lengths in parallel running say 2ft from the engine outlet to the hull grill. As with all temporary fixes, it's now permanent! No problems at all and some full day cruises, but then, ours is a cruiserdeck so there is probably more air-flow than if you engine is in a trad style and more enclosed.

 

Cheerrs

[Biggles]

Mine has the same air box on it, but I forgot to add mine is and ST3. The air box has 2 x 10" flanges on it.

 

3 x 6" diameter is about 85sq/"

 

2 x 10" diameter is 157sq/"

 

Its my experience that you can't over cool a air cooled Lister in a NB.

 

The ST3 is about 30% more powerful than a SR3, but requires nearly 2 x the area to dump the hot air.

 

Biggles