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Hi. Noticed the belt to one of my alternators needed changing. Found a new one that left on boat by last owner and after a struggle it seems to fit correctly. Now when I turn ignition nothing happens. A click from the starter but nothing else. Wondered if perhaps the belt is the wrong one but as I said it seems a good match for the last one. I really would appreciate any and all help. BMC 1800 engine with two alternators. Forgive any typos as sending this via iPhone. Thanks.

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Even if it was the wrong belt, that wouldn't cause the symptoms you describe. The only effect of fitting the wrong belt (assuming it wasn't so short that you couldn't fit it) would be either that if it was too long it would slip when the engine turned, so you didn't get proper charging from the alternator, or if it was the wrong angle of "v" it would either slip or would wear out very quickly indeed.

 

If the belt that broke was the one driving the alternator which charges the starter battery, possibly that battery is now too flat to turn the engine over? Either that, or while you were wielding spanners and things you accidentally broke one of the wires although if you are getting a "click" from the starter I would say this is unlikely.

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Hi. Noticed the belt to one of my alternators needed changing. Found a new one that left on boat by last owner and after a struggle it seems to fit correctly. Now when I turn ignition nothing happens. A click from the starter but nothing else. Wondered if perhaps the belt is the wrong one but as I said it seems a good match for the last one. I really would appreciate any and all help. BMC 1800 engine with two alternators. Forgive any typos as sending this via iPhone. Thanks.

 

Hi

Did you disconnect the battery whilst you was replacing the belt?

It sound like you have a bad connection to the battery

 

Alex

Edited by steelaway
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Hi. Noticed the belt to one of my alternators needed changing. Found a new one that left on boat by last owner and after a struggle it seems to fit correctly. Now when I turn ignition nothing happens. A click from the starter but nothing else. Wondered if perhaps the belt is the wrong one but as I said it seems a good match for the last one. I really would appreciate any and all help. BMC 1800 engine with two alternators. Forgive any typos as sending this via iPhone. Thanks.

 

As long as the belt is not stupidly over tight I can not see a belt, even a wrong one, that is not fouling anything causing this problem. In fact I can not really think how an over tight belt would.

 

My suspicion is that you have knocked a terminal off something but the most likely candidate from your description (the small single one on the starter solenoid) would not give a click UNLESS you also have a solenoid or relay in the energising circuit.

 

With the click I would suggest it sounds as if the master switch is faulty, only partially turned on, or you have a loose/dirty battery terminal. However in that case you would be telling us the warning lamps come on with the ignition switch as normal but then dim or go out as you turn the key to heat or start.

 

Sorry not to be much help and I think a better description of what happens to the gauges and lights as you turn on and start would help the diagnosis.

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Hi. Noticed the belt to one of my alternators needed changing. Found a new one that left on boat by last owner and after a struggle it seems to fit correctly. Now when I turn ignition nothing happens. A click from the starter but nothing else. Wondered if perhaps the belt is the wrong one but as I said it seems a good match for the last one. I really would appreciate any and all help. BMC 1800 engine with two alternators. Forgive any typos as sending this via iPhone. Thanks.

The two are probably not related!

You can try turning the crank using a big spanner, a) to make sure the engine turns, :lol: to move the flywheel and free the starter if it is jammed.

The fact that it is clunking indicates power is still getting to the solenoid, so it is most likely that the starter has gone.

The starters fitted to the 1800's are of a type that can fail at the blink of an eye, the power is delevered through a bush on the shaft which breaks up over time, they then still turn but with very little power.

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The two are probably not related!

You can try turning the crank using a big spanner, a) to make sure the engine turns, :lol: to move the flywheel and free the starter if it is jammed.

The fact that it is clunking indicates power is still getting to the solenoid, so it is most likely that the starter has gone.

The starters fitted to the 1800's are of a type that can fail at the blink of an eye, the power is delevered through a bush on the shaft which breaks up over time, they then still turn but with very little power.

I have once or twice encountered a situation whereby a wrong belt has been fitted and the alternator rests with it's fan up against metalwork and the engine cannot turn. I have no idea what the

bush on the shaft which breaks up over time,
is, as far as I recall the starter is a simple 4.5" lucas jobbie and the only bush on the shaft is the three bearings. Worth checking carefully that there is no earth connection on one of the alternator fixing bolts which may have not properly made when the bolts were re tightened. Presuming that is, that they were re tightened, don't laugh, it happens.
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II have no idea what the is, as far as I recall the starter is a simple 4.5" lucas jobbie and the only bush on the shaft is the three bearings.

There is a sort of carbon thrust bearing on mine, the return from the rotor coils goes to earth through it? If this breaks up it provides bad contact and the armature looses its umph!

Not sure of the exact size but they are slightly bigger than the 1500 ones!

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There is a sort of carbon thrust bearing on mine, the return from the rotor coils goes to earth through it? If this breaks up it provides bad contact and the armature looses its umph!

Not sure of the exact size but they are slightly bigger than the 1500 ones!

That's a brake, it carries no current, the starter will work fine if assembled without it. The armature current both in and out is carried by the radial brushes.

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