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Clear 15mm pipe


blackrose

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I'm looking for about a metre of clear 15mm plastic pipe to make a water tank level indicator.

 

What kind of pipe have others used for this? I suppose I could use clear hose, but rigid pipe would be better and easier to fit.

 

Thanks

The people who supply polythene tanks for diesel/kerosene storage sell kits for level displays that canbe used on such tanks, they include taps and fittingd and from memory are cheap. Look under oil fuel distributors in yellow pages or the boilerjuice website might lead you somewhere.. sorry i,m not good at clickies.. :lol:

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The people who supply polythene tanks for diesel/kerosene storage sell kits for level displays that canbe used on such tanks, they include taps and fittingd and from memory are cheap. Look under oil fuel distributors in yellow pages or the boilerjuice website might lead you somewhere.. sorry i,m not good at clickies.. :lol:

 

Sounds like a good start - thanks for that.

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There's this on Ebay - looks as though it might do what you want.

Thanks. I've ordered one. I assume it would fit into a Speedfit 15mm T fitting and be ok for potable water.

 

Anyway, if it doesn't I haven't wasted too much money.

 

I'm going to put a little red plastic float in the pipe to show the water level.

Edited by blackrose
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Thanks. I've ordered one. I assume it would fit into a Speedfit 15mm T fitting and be ok for potable water.

 

Anyway, if it doesn't I haven't wasted too much money.

 

I'm going to put a little red plastic float in the pipe to show the water level.

 

 

When you have this made up, could post some pictures please Mike? I'm interested to see how this works out as it would be useful on our boat.

 

Richard

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When you have this made up, could post some pictures please Mike? I'm interested to see how this works out as it would be useful on our boat.

 

Richard

 

Ok, will do. I'm just going to T in the pipe vertically just after the main stopcock. As long as the top of the pipe is higher than the tank filler then it should be fine.

 

I'm trying to think of something I can use to cap the top of the pipe without sealing it. Obviously air has to escape and be drawn in as the water level rises and falls.

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Ok, will do. I'm just going to T in the pipe vertically just after the main stopcock. As long as the top of the pipe is higher than the tank filler then it should be fine.

 

I'm trying to think of something I can use to cap the top of the pipe without sealing it. Obviously air has to escape and be drawn in as the water level rises and falls.

 

It's a bit of an overkill but you could use an in-line strainer. I think I would make up a u-bend from a bit of copper tube and two 90 degree elbows and fit that on the top with a compression fitting. It would stop things dropping into the pipe and you could use it as something to anchor the top of the tube with too. If you don't want to solder the joints, just glue it together with superglue or araldite. If that isn't enough protection, shove a bit of cotton wool up the end to stop insects getting in.

 

Richard

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It's a bit of an overkill but you could use an in-line strainer. I think I would make up a u-bend from a bit of copper tube and two 90 degree elbows and fit that on the top with a compression fitting. It would stop things dropping into the pipe and you could use it as something to anchor the top of the tube with too. If you don't want to solder the joints, just glue it together with superglue or araldite. If that isn't enough protection, shove a bit of cotton wool up the end to stop insects getting in.

 

Richard

 

Yes a U-bend sounds like a good idea. I'm not sure about using compression fittings on the clear pipe as the particular plastic may be too brittle to have olives biting into it. It doesn't need to be watertight at the top so I'll think of something.

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The problem with the pipe you intend to use is it will burst when the water inside freezes...and a proper kit will only cost 15-20 pounds with fittings top cap and float. :lol:

 

 

I have noticed that it is possible to buy narrowboat shells too, but that doesn't mean you can't make your own if you want to...

 

Richard

 

:lol:

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The problem with the pipe you intend to use is it will burst when the water inside freezes...and a proper kit will only cost 15-20 pounds with fittings top cap and float. :lol:

 

Is it any more susceptible to bursting than other plastic pipe I have on my boat? I appreciate it might be if it's more brittle, but I've never had a frozen pipe on my boat yet.

 

As I'm on my Blackberry I couldn't see the BES website properly. What are their sight tubes made of?

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Is it any more susceptible to bursting than other plastic pipe I have on my boat? I appreciate it might be if it's more brittle, but I've never had a frozen pipe on my boat yet.

 

As I'm on my Blackberry I couldn't see the BES website properly. What are their sight tubes made of?

I presume thick pvc like the ones ive seen, I saw the perspex in question and would think it will deteriorate quickly under sunlight and harden too it looks thinwalled and will be succeptable to fracture in my opinion, let me know how you get on

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I presume thick pvc like the ones ive seen, I saw the perspex in question and would think it will deteriorate quickly under sunlight and harden too it looks thinwalled and will be succeptable to fracture in my opinion, let me know how you get on

 

It's supposed to be 2mm thick. Its difficult to know which pipe is more suitable without knowing the particular properties of the polymers used in their manufacture.

 

I assume the ebay pipe is made to carry fluids and it won't be in direct sunlight as it will be installed inside the boat. If I notice it deteriorating I'll just replace it.

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I presume thick pvc like the ones ive seen, I saw the perspex in question and would think it will deteriorate quickly under sunlight and harden too it looks thinwalled and will be succeptable to fracture in my opinion, let me know how you get on

 

What I like about the material Mike has chosen is that it is rigid and straight. If the sight glass is put inside the boat it should be fine for freezing and exposure to sunlight, especially on Mike's liveaboard. Also, in my experience, pipes burst when the ice in them cannot expand. Usually they go in a short piece between two fittings. I would have thought that the water in an open ended tube would expand along the tube to relive the pressure and lift Mike's float up a bit higher.

 

The material spec of the pipe is here: link. I suggests it is OK for outdoor use and is suitable as a snake catcher (??!)

 

Richard

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What I like about the material Mike has chosen is that it is rigid and straight. If the sight glass is put inside the boat it should be fine for freezing and exposure to sunlight, especially on Mike's liveaboard. Also, in my experience, pipes burst when the ice in them cannot expand. Usually they go in a short piece between two fittings. I would have thought that the water in an open ended tube would expand along the tube to relive the pressure and lift Mike's float up a bit higher.

 

The material spec of the pipe is here: link. I suggests it is OK for outdoor use and is suitable as a snake catcher (??!)

 

Richard

May come in handy if that snake is still on the loose on the towpath somewhere... :lol:

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Food quality too which is good to know.

 

Just in case it does freeze, or you smash it with a stray boot, or accidentally pull it off the wall, I would put one of those little in-line ball valves in the pipe from the tee to the water gauge. Then you can shut it off before the contents of your water tank empty into your bilge*.

 

Richard

 

*I've tried that in the past through differing means and I really, really wouldn't recommend it.

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Just in case it does freeze, or you smash it with a stray boot, or accidentally pull it off the wall, I would put one of those little in-line ball valves in the pipe from the tee to the water gauge. Then you can shut it off before the contents of your water tank empty into your bilge*.

 

Richard

 

*I've tried that in the past through differing means and I really, really wouldn't recommend it.

Or you could cut out the middleman and just fill the bilge with water and syphon it out through a filtering system.. job done.. :lol:

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Or you could cut out the middleman and just fill the bilge with water and syphon it out through a filtering system.. job done.. :lol:

 

 

I'll give you a call the next time our water tank empties into the cabin bilge. You sound like just the man for the job :lol:

 

Richard

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I'm looking for about a metre of clear 15mm plastic pipe to make a water tank level indicator.

 

What kind of pipe have others used for this? I suppose I could use clear hose, but rigid pipe would be better and easier to fit.

 

Thanks

hi .we did the same with 10 mm pipe all was fine untill the tank was 1/2 way down then the pump sucks a lot of air. you need a separate feed frome the tank.bob

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Has it happened, must be terrible drying everything out afterwards... :lol:

 

Don't joke it's not funny when it happens nine hours before the Surveyor is due to take your boat apart for survey .....

 

Well, it is, in hindsight!

 

I recommend nappies, harirdryer, Vactan and hairdryer in that order. If you time it right, the surveyor gets a face full of hot air when he pulls up the inspection hatch ......

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