Morso Squirrel backplate replacement revisited

[daveyboy]

Following on from Morso not honouring their guarantee regarding a cracked backplate. I understand from members that this is a problem with Morso stoves and I reluctantly purchased a new backplate (£108). Following members instructions, I proceeded to remove the stove from the boat, no problem. Got the stove and new backplate home to the garage. Upon dismantling, found that bottom plate is held in with 10mm bolts, dead easy to undo, top plate, however, held in with 8mm bolts. The problem is the 8mm bolts have thin shaft that then enlarges to the same size thread as the 10mm bolts! Are these designed to purposely break or what? They did break, even after loads of WD40! About this time I noticed two further cracks on the front cover where the bolts holding the top are. So far then, new back plate, new front plate, flue collar. It is working out a bit dearer than I thought. I have contacted Morsoe again to ask them if the front plate cracks are also my fault as their 10 year guarantee is still not quite up. I accept that some damage may be due to me lighting fires in it, but Morsoe instructions never said I couldn't light fires. Will post their answer. Not particularly hopeful though.

Edited August 16, 2009 by daveyboy

[stagedamager]

Following on from Morso not honouring their guarantee regarding a cracked backplate. I understand from members that this is a problem with Morso stoves and I reluctantly purchased a new backplate (£108). Following members instructions, I proceeded to remove the stove from the boat, no problem. Got the stove and new backplate home to the garage. Upon dismantling, found that bottom plate is held in with 10mm bolts, dead easy to undo, top plate, however, held in with 8mm bolts. The problem is the 8mm bolts have thin shaft that then enlarges to the same size thread as the 10mm bolts! Are these designed to purposely break or what? They did break, even after loads of WD40! About this time I noticed two further cracks on the front cover where the bolts holding the top are. So far then, new back plate, new front plate, flue collar. It is working out a bit dearer than I thought. I have contacted Morsoe again to ask them if the front plate cracks are also my fault as their 10 year guarantee is still not quite up. I accept that some damage may be due to me lighting fires in it, but Morsoe instructions never said I couldn't light fires. Will post their answer. Not particularly hopeful though.

 

Hi Daveyboy, i assume the bolt size you are referring to is the head size not the shaft size? On the squirrel i'm restoring at the moment, there was no evidence in change of shaft size, maybe corrosion? I found the only way to loosten the bolts was with a large propane torch and a wire brush. i took perseverance but i only managed to snap two of the 18 bolts. you are correct though, in my experience the fastenings are not the best quality i have ever come across and as such they are all going to be replaced with stainless steel!

Regards

Stagedamager

[daveyboy]

Hello Stagedamager,

 

Thanks for the reply. The head is indeed 8mm. Then a unthreaded shaft, which probably is corroded, then they appear to widen out to a thread that is as I say, the same size as the 10mm bolts. I have taken onboard the blow torch idea, and if and when I get a new front panel, (anyone got one going cheap), I will remove the last two bolts with that method. Good luck on your restoration. As a matter of interest, when you put new rope in all the joints, how tight do the bolts need to be done up and do you need to glue the rope. I have visions of shearing off the lugs! With my luck, I would not be surprised!

Edited August 16, 2009 by daveyboy

[stagedamager]

Hello Stagedamager,

 

Thanks for the reply. The head is indeed 8mm. Then a unthreaded shaft, which probably is corroded, then they appear to widen out to a thread that is as I say, the same size as the 10mm bolts. I have taken onboard the blow torch idea, and if and when I get a new front panel, (anyone got one going cheap), I will remove the last two bolts with that method. Good luck on your restoration. As a matter of interest, when you put new rope in all the joints, how tight do the bolts need to be done up and do you need to glue the rope. I have visions of shearing off the lugs! With my luck, I would not be surprised!

I haven't got that far yet, it is currently lying in pieces in my shed! i would have thought that you should be able to "Feel" when they are tight enough, or at least i'm hoping so anyway!!! i would assume you need to glue the rope in, but not too much or it may be difficult to get the bolts to bite. likewise, i hope you get it sorted, it will be worth it!

[daveyboy]

Right, here's a good idea. You hurry up and do yours then give me a rough idea of how tight you done them. If you should make a mistake, I need a new front plate!!

Edited August 16, 2009 by daveyboy

[stagedamager]

Right, here's a good idea. You hurry up and do yours then give me a rough idea of how tight you done them. If you should make a mistake, I need a new front plate!!

sounds like a plan, let me go and have a skin full and see how it goes!!!

[BEngo]

himley

Hi Daveyboy, i assume the bolt size you are referring to is the head size not the shaft size? On the squirrel i'm restoring at the moment, there was no evidence in change of shaft size, maybe corrosion? I found the only way to loosten the bolts was with a large propane torch and a wire brush. i took perseverance but i only managed to snap two of the 18 bolts. you are correct though, in my experience the fastenings are not the best quality i have ever come across and as such they are all going to be replaced with stainless steel!

Regards

Stagedamager

 

Sorry, but stainless are not a good idea. They will probably not last as long as ordinary BZP mild steel, because the smoke and the damp from combustion are a very aggressive environment for Stainless.

 

BTW, it's not lighting the fire that's caused the problem, but letting it out. Once the fire is out the soot and fire dirt draw moisture out of the air, and rain down the chimley doesn't help, so that rust start to build up in the joins of the stove. Rust is bigger than the metal it replaces so the plates are forced apart. Something has to give and it is usually either the front or the back.

 

Keep the fire going 24/7/365 and you will have no trouble with it, though if we ever get a summer you may prefer to risk the rust!.

 

N

[stagedamager]

himley

 

Sorry, but stainless are not a good idea. They will probably not last as long as ordinary BZP mild steel, because the smoke and the damp from combustion are a very aggressive environment for Stainless.

 

BTW, it's not lighting the fire that's caused the problem, but letting it out. Once the fire is out the soot and fire dirt draw moisture out of the air, and

 

Thank for the advice, duly listened to and taken onboard!

[daveyboy]

I have heard back from Morso. I was right not be too hopeful. The front plate cracks were also down to me. These are caused by one of two things. Overheating or more likely, condensation. This is caused by lighting a fire and then turning down the adjusters and going to bed (doesn't everybody do that).

Anyway, I have decided to call it quits as far as Morso are concerned as I refuse to pay their extortionate prices for spare parts and have returned the new backplate and I am going to purchase a new and substantially cheaper stove from another manufacturer. The reasoning is this, if a big brand name stove will not last 10 years, why bother paying over the odds in the 1st place. Not only to buy it, but to maintain it afterwards.

[Tony Brooks]

I have heard back from Morso. I was right not be too hopeful. The front plate cracks were also down to me. These are caused by one of two things. Overheating or more likely, condensation. This is caused by lighting a fire and then turning down the adjusters and going to bed (doesn't everybody do that).

Anyway, I have decided to call it quits as far as Morso are concerned as I refuse to pay their extortionate prices for spare parts and have returned the new backplate and I am going to purchase a new and substantially cheaper stove from another manufacturer. The reasoning is this, if a big brand name stove will not last 10 years, why bother paying over the odds in the 1st place. Not only to buy it, but to maintain it afterwards.

 

 

I think the Squirrel has a body that is bolted together.

 

As long as you are fairly confident that the stove will rarely run away you might consider one of the stoves with a welded boiler plate body. This should be far less fussy about slow warm up & cool down and as the body is in one piece not subject to rust in joints. I do suspect that regular overheating may lead to distortion though.

 

Just a thought - says he with a cast Brunell using a good grate and a steel Hunter with an appalling "multi- fuel" grate.

[churchward]

I think the Squirrel has a body that is bolted together.

 

As long as you are fairly confident that the stove will rarely run away you might consider one of the stoves with a welded boiler plate body. This should be far less fussy about slow warm up & cool down and as the body is in one piece not subject to rust in joints. I do suspect that regular overheating may lead to distortion though.

 

Just a thought - says he with a cast Brunell using a good grate and a steel Hunter with an appalling "multi- fuel" grate.

I have heard that steel stoves can distort but so far with the unit we have at home we have not seen this happen. We have a Stovax Stocton and it works very well.

 

Mind you we have a Morso on the boat and that works just fine too.