Vactan - what do you paint on top of it?

[blackrose]

On a deck treated with Vactan should I paint red oxide primer, or deck paint directly on top?

I wasn't going to bother with an undercoat.

[Moley]

On a deck treated with Vactan should I paint red oxide primer, or deck paint directly on top?

I wasn't going to bother with an undercoat.

I would still go with the red oxide.

[MikeV]

Agree with Moley. I did the rusty areas on the underside of our weedhatch cover with Vactan (1 coat only) and then straight to Blakes Multicoat, but there are some small areas of rust coming through. I'll need to rub it back and give it a bit more treatment!

[blackrose]

Agree with Moley. I did the rusty areas on the underside of our weedhatch cover with Vactan (1 coat only) and then straight to Blakes Multicoat, but there are some small areas of rust coming through. I'll need to rub it back and give it a bit more treatment!

You did the underside of your weedhatch cover? Blimey that is thorough!

I'll put red oxide over the Vactan then - cheers.

[dave moore]

Hi

If using ordinary red oxide, please bear in mind that it's not waterproof like gloss paint and I certainly wouldn't apply it in a permanently damp area. Craftmasters Radddle Red has the waterproof qualities of gloss in a matt finish (and variety of colours) which I suggest may be appropriate. Personally, I'd prime first anyway!

Cheers

Dave (belt and braces) Moore

[blackrose]

Hi

If using ordinary red oxide, please bear in mind that it's not waterproof like gloss paint and I certainly wouldn't apply it in a permanently damp area. Craftmasters Radddle Red has the waterproof qualities of gloss in a matt finish (and variety of colours) which I suggest may be appropriate. Personally, I'd prime first anyway!

Cheers

Dave (belt and braces) Moore

The stuff I'm using is called Bonda Primer with zinc. It goes off very smooth with a non-porus almost plastic finish.

Although its not meant for underwater applications, I've had patches of it exposed in damp conditions for months and never had a problem.

[blackrose]

I did a bit today and as I was painting the red oxide felt like it was getting a bit thicker on the brush.

The instructions say that several thin coats is better than 1 thick coat and to thin with cellulose thinners - max 10%, but I didn't have any.so I just carried on.

 

Will the coat I've put on stick ok and should I take a bit off with some fine wet & dry paper before applying another thinned coat?

[RLWP]

I did a bit today and as I was painting the red oxide felt like it was getting a bit thicker on the brush.

The instructions say that several thin coats is better than 1 thick coat and to thin with cellulose thinners - max 10%, but I didn't have any.so I just carried on.

 

Will the coat I've put on stick ok and should I take a bit off with some fine wet & dry paper before applying another thinned coat?

 

It'll stick fine. I like those zinc based red primers and have had success with them on old cars. Leave it alone for a day or two if you are unsure but I have topcoated within a day with no problems.

 

It usually goes on a bit thick.

 

Richard

[blackrose]

It'll stick fine. I like those zinc based red primers and have had success with them on old cars. Leave it alone for a day or two if you are unsure but I have topcoated within a day with no problems.

 

It usually goes on a bit thick.

 

Richard

Thanks

[paulcatchpole]

It'll stick fine. I like those zinc based red primers and have had success with them on old cars. Leave it alone for a day or two if you are unsure but I have topcoated within a day with no problems.

 

It usually goes on a bit thick.

 

Richard

 

Kate (Creamcheese) has been doing this recently, on our project boat...

 

 

We love Vactan!

 

 

We've had all the gravel out now, literally chiselling the stuck bits off, and it's been painted with Vactan, then Red Oxide from Screwfix.

 

 

I had a suspicion that the red oxide was going to be a bit rubbish, so painted a new piece of bare steel channel and left it outside for a week - rust has come through it. The floor sections that have been done seem to have dried very matt and porous looking too.

 

On our 'real' boat, I painted the rusty gunwales with grey PU floor paint from SF, and that's not had any rust come back through, so we've bought some of the red to paint over the vactan instead of the oxide.

 

Interestingly, as an aside, we found the vactan didn't cover as well as the spec, and tried watering it down a little, which seems to have mainly worked, although after nearly a week, there were a few green tinges left, whereas the unmodified stuff all went black in a few hours.

 

All good fun though!

 

PC

[WotEver]

I had a suspicion that the red oxide was going to be a bit rubbish...

 

I know the application is different, but I thought this worthy of mentioning.

 

We've had a mild steel structure holding up our conservatory at home for well over 10 years now. It's all exposed to the air, and the edge legs and beams get hammered by wind and rain. No rust whatsoever on any part of it to date.

 

Starting with bright steel we applied two coats of (white) Srewfix Zinc Phosphate primer. That was followed by two coats of Screwfix Red Oxide primer and finally protected with two coats of Hammerite Black Smooth (also from Screwfix). So that's a lot of work, but it's most certainly paid off by proving to be totally maintenance free.

 

Whether it would have been as good on something already rusty I have no way of knowing.

 

T

[paulcatchpole]

I know the application is different, but I thought this worthy of mentioning.

 

We've had a mild steel structure holding up our conservatory at home for well over 10 years now. It's all exposed to the air, and the edge legs and beams get hammered by wind and rain. No rust whatsoever on any part of it to date.

 

Starting with bright steel we applied two coats of (white) Srewfix Zinc Phosphate primer. That was followed by two coats of Screwfix Red Oxide primer and finally protected with two coats of Hammerite Black Smooth (also from Screwfix). So that's a lot of work, but it's most certainly paid off by proving to be totally maintenance free.

 

Whether it would have been as good on something already rusty I have no way of knowing.

 

T

 

Cool, sounds like the combination has worked for you! Perhaps the zinc-rich base was a good one?

 

I'm not so bothered about the inside floor, as the vactan is underneath it all - the test was to see if the red oxide would work as a holding primer for some exterior steelwork...

 

PC

[RLWP]

Cool, sounds like the combination has worked for you! Perhaps the zinc-rich base was a good one?

 

I'm not so bothered about the inside floor, as the vactan is underneath it all - the test was to see if the red oxide would work as a holding primer for some exterior steelwork...

 

PC

 

The zinc-rich stuff is there to act as a rust inhibitor. It's a bit like anodes on a steel hull. If you like the paint is full of thousands of little, tiny anodes that you put on with paint.

 

Is the screwfix red-oxide zinc based or just red paint?

 

Richard

[DHutch]

Whatever you do i would deffonatly make sure you get some good protection on the insides of the hull.

- Im not saying the vactan isnt good stuff, althought im yet to use it myself, but eather way once the floor is down and everything on it the last thing you want to be doing is considering repainting the inside of hull. The outside gets blacked every 2-3years, but not the inside, which can rust just as fast.

 

Certainly only emilyanne, what little rust there is on the hull, is on the inside where its not gone on so well. And that was shotblasted, primmed, zinc epoxyied and then topcoated with two part polyurethene.

 

 

Daniel

[paulcatchpole]

Whatever you do i would deffonatly make sure you get some good protection on the insides of the hull.

- Im not saying the vactan isnt good stuff, althought im yet to use it myself, but eather way once the floor is down and everything on it the last thing you want to be doing is considering repainting the inside of hull. The outside gets blacked every 2-3years, but not the inside, which can rust just as fast.

 

Certainly only emilyanne, what little rust there is on the hull, is on the inside where its not gone on so well. And that was shotblasted, primmed, zinc epoxyied and then topcoated with two part polyurethene.

 

 

Daniel

 

Aye, although the boat in question is 37yrs old, and the sheer amount of water trapped in place by rusty gravel was horrible. The vactan has done an impressive job though, and with the combination of another topcoat, I expect it to be okay. The boat is a dry bilge, despite its age, like the other Rugby boat mentioned on the 'gravel' thread from earlier in the year.

 

This pic shows three sections - de-gravelled at the top, vactan + paint in the middle, and the raw vactan finish at the bottom...

 

 

Is the screwfix red-oxide zinc based or just red paint?

 

Richard

 

Just red paint I feel, from the experience!

 

Their value PU floor paint was a quick slap-it-on experiment for the gunwales on Bben, as it was out of the water at the time and needed tidying. That's been very successful at not allowing rust through - although I don't consider it a finished product like it is.

 

PC

[Jason Day - Sheffield]

What's the dryng time for Vactan?

 

I know the spec sheet says 10 mins to 2 hours for touch dry, but what about overpainting? I put a coat on three hours ago and wonder if I can put bitumen paint over the top today, or leave it longer and go and so something else instead.

 

oh, on second thoughts just found David Schwiezer's post...that answers that then, I'll go and do something else

Edited September 11, 2009 by Jason Day - Sheffield

[Timleech]

Some zinc-rich paints (ie those with metallic zinc rather than zinc phosphate etc) don't seem to bond too well to some rust conversion products.

If in doubt ask Vactan themselves

 

Tim

[Swallowman]

Starting with bright steel we applied two coats of (white) Srewfix Zinc Phosphate primer. Zinc Phosphate is a good anti-corrosive material for steel.

That was followed by two coats of Screwfix Red Oxide primer Red oxide is not an anti-corrosive primer, it is a high build, probably porous coating to provide a smooth surface for top-coating and finally protected with two coats of Hammerite Black Smooth good stuff (also from Screwfix). So that's a lot of work, but it's most certainly paid off by proving to be totally maintenance free.

 

Whether it would have been as good on something already rusty I have no way of knowing.

 

T

[journeyperson]

I think if you paint anything over the Vactan the Pope will have something to say about it!