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Morso backplate replacement


daveyboy

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Now I have had my request for a replacement backplate under guarantee on my Morso turned down because I was using it wrong, apparently my mistake was to light a fire in it! Has anyone had to replace a back plate (non boiler). If so how do you go about it? I swore I was going to get rid of the stove, but as a new backplate is (only) £80 compared to God knows what for a replacement one, I thought perhaps that would not be too bad if it lasted another 10 years.

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Now I have had my request for a replacement backplate under guarantee on my Morso turned down because I was using it wrong, apparently my mistake was to light a fire in it! Has anyone had to replace a back plate (non boiler). If so how do you go about it? I swore I was going to get rid of the stove, but as a new backplate is (only) £80 compared to God knows what for a replacement one, I thought perhaps that would not be too bad if it lasted another 10 years.

Which bit do you mean? The whole back section of the stove or the rear circular plate that plug the whole if you use a top fitted flue?

Edited by churchward
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Now I have had my request for a replacement backplate under guarantee on my Morso turned down because I was using it wrong, apparently my mistake was to light a fire in it! Has anyone had to replace a back plate (non boiler). If so how do you go about it? I swore I was going to get rid of the stove, but as a new backplate is (only) £80 compared to God knows what for a replacement one, I thought perhaps that would not be too bad if it lasted another 10 years.

 

You take the top off the stove, there are 4 nuts, one on each corner 10mm if i remember right. Then the baffle comes out.

 

I now read your post (should do that first really) and see you say 'back plate' = assuming you mean the back of the stove - then then same applies, take the top off and the 4 sides will separate, they are held together by a groove in the top plate.

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Which bit do you mean? The whole back section of the stove or the rear circular plate that plug the whole if you use a top fitted flue?

 

 

Yes, the whole back section.

 

You take the top off the stove, there are 4 nuts, one on each corner 10mm if i remember right. Then the baffle comes out.

 

I now read your post (should do that first really) and see you say 'back plate' = assuming you mean the back of the stove - then then same applies, take the top off and the 4 sides will separate, they are held together by a groove in the top plate.

 

 

Thanks for getting back. I do mean the whole back of the stove. I presume the flue has to be removed first to get the top off.

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Yes, the whole back section.

 

 

 

 

Thanks for getting back. I do mean the whole back of the stove. I presume the flue has to be removed first to get the top off.

 

 

Yes, and as well as the four bolts holding the top on there are four more holding the front and the back to the bottom. These also have to come out. This is a filthy job. Try to have a look at a new stove in assembled condition at a chandlers- that way you will be able to see how it's held together. Maybe take some piccs.

 

 

The easiest way to do this is to take the stove out, then empty it of all moveable parts- Doors, Baffle/boiler, rocking grate, grate, grate support etc. Some serious digging in the corners will locate the bolt heads and the lugs that they go through. Unless the bolts were put in with an anti-sieze they will be next to impossible to get out with a spanner or even mole grips. The heat and the corrosive smoke invariably take the corners off the heads too. So, grind the heads off the eight bolts. Take care not to break or grind the lugs off the front of the stove- the back doesn't matter since you are replacing it! the sides slot in between the front and the back.

 

When you have it in bits drill out the bolts at the top and bottom and buy new ones- they are M6 ISTR, about 25mm long. The back supplier may be able to tell you, or sell you 8 new ones. You also need a penny washer for each one and loads of the glass string that seals the joins. Enough for all the way round at the top and at the bottom and for the four joints on the sides and for the two flue entries. Then re-assemble it but this time put a big dollop of coppaslip on each bolt. That way it might come apart more easily when the next bit cracks.

 

N

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Yes, and as well as the four bolts holding the top on there are four more holding the front and the back to the bottom. These also have to come out. This is a filthy job. Try to have a look at a new stove in assembled condition at a chandlers- that way you will be able to see how it's held together. Maybe take some piccs.

 

 

The easiest way to do this is to take the stove out, then empty it of all moveable parts- Doors, Baffle/boiler, rocking grate, grate, grate support etc. Some serious digging in the corners will locate the bolt heads and the lugs that they go through. Unless the bolts were put in with an anti-sieze they will be next to impossible to get out with a spanner or even mole grips. The heat and the corrosive smoke invariably take the corners off the heads too. So, grind the heads off the eight bolts. Take care not to break or grind the lugs off the front of the stove- the back doesn't matter since you are replacing it! the sides slot in between the front and the back.

 

When you have it in bits drill out the bolts at the top and bottom and buy new ones- they are M6 ISTR, about 25mm long. The back supplier may be able to tell you, or sell you 8 new ones. You also need a penny washer for each one and loads of the glass string that seals the joins. Enough for all the way round at the top and at the bottom and for the four joints on the sides and for the two flue entries. Then re-assemble it but this time put a big dollop of coppaslip on each bolt. That way it might come apart more easily when the next bit cracks.

 

N

 

 

Taking the stove out altogether seems like the way to go, better still take it home and set to in the garage. I know I might sound a bit thick, but can the flue be removed without major dismantling anyway?

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Taking the stove out altogether seems like the way to go, better still take it home and set to in the garage. I know I might sound a bit thick, but can the flue be removed without major dismantling anyway?

 

It should be possible to split the sealant on the top of the stove surrounding the flue pipe and push the flue pipe back upinto the hole in the roof.

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