Casting Repair

[Batavia]

Not directly to do with boats, but someone might be able to help .....

 

I am currently re-building a small BCA jig borer and while I can deal with most of its problems, a small casting (which connects one of the feed screws to its associated part of the compound slides) is broken. I either need to get it repaired or if this can't be done economically, I can fabricate a replacement. To keep the machine in its original state, I would prefer to go down the repair route, if possible. The whole casting is about 5" x 1.5" x 1".

 

Can anyone recommend a company which is interested in doing small repairs like this, either by welding or stitching?

 

Thanks

 

Chris G

[Yoda]

If the part is cast steel, it could be brazed. A further more detailed description would be helpful.

[steelaway]

Not directly to do with boats, but someone might be able to help .....

 

I am currently re-building a small BCA jig borer and while I can deal with most of its problems, a small casting (which connects one of the feed screws to its associated part of the compound slides) is broken. I either need to get it repaired or if this can't be done economically, I can fabricate a replacement. To keep the machine in its original state, I would prefer to go down the repair route, if possible. The whole casting is about 5" x 1.5" x 1".

 

Can anyone recommend a company which is interested in doing small repairs like this, either by welding or stitching?

 

Thanks

 

Chris G

 

 

Hi

 

You can weld cast with the correct rods - see a local fabricator

 

Alex

[LEO]

Hi Chris,

 

Send Koukouvagia a PM, he has some cast iron repairs carried out one one of his engines and may be able to give you more info.

 

Hope you are well.

 

Leo

[Batavia]

Thanks for the comments so far.

 

Here is a picture of the bits....

 

 

I think that it is probably cast iron - very porous and looks similar to the main table, which would normally be cast iron. Is there an easy way to test between CI and CS (apart from grinding a bit off and looking at the sparks)?

 

I can't see how the previous owner managed to break this, as there are steel dowels and screws on each side of the break - must have been some clout!

 

Mike - I will contact KK.

 

Chris G

[Malarky]

Do the dowels hold it in position anyway, if so could you not peg it with a couple of pegs of exactly the right size to grip in holes on each side of the break, possibly put the pegs in the freezer for a while before fitting? or even pin them to stop it comeing loose.

[Batavia]

Do the dowels hold it in position anyway, if so could you not peg it with a couple of pegs of exactly the right size to grip in holes on each side of the break, possibly put the pegs in the freezer for a while before fitting? or even pin them to stop it comeing loose.

 

Thanks for the suggestion.

 

The existing dowel pins are a good fit and I had thought of this, even to the extent of discarding the small bit (which would not be doing anything functional) and adding an additional dowel/screw to the large part, but as the whole X axis accuracy (of what is reckoned to be a precision machine) relies on this part not moving, I would prefer to repair or replace the original component.

 

One problem that I can see from any heat process is that the distance between the dowel centres might change, so that I would have to plug one of the holes and re-drill it - then I am into the situation of "With what shall I drill it Dear Liza, Dear Liza?" .... "with a jig borer..." Ah, that's were we started!

 

Chris G

[dove]

To test for cast iron, using small grinder, if the sparks are feathery or sparkly it's cast iron. If the sparks are straight it's cast steel.

 

If you weld it you will have to remachine

 

To stitch we used these www.metalock.co.uk . If you want phone number pm me

 

If we were unsure of the material we would use TIG and Bronze weld 8 filler rod

 

Andrew

Edited July 27, 2009 by dove

[RLWP]

It looks a fairly simple piece. Could you have a replacement made from solid?

 

Richard

[Byeckerslike]

Thanks for the comments so far.

 

Here is a picture of the bits....

 

 

I think that it is probably cast iron - very porous and looks similar to the main table, which would normally be cast iron. Is there an easy way to test between CI and CS (apart from grinding a bit off and looking at the sparks)?

 

I can't see how the previous owner managed to break this, as there are steel dowels and screws on each side of the break - must have been some clout!

 

Mike - I will contact KK.

 

Chris G

 

I'd guess that some-one engaged the feed, walked away and got distracted, I've seen universal millers with the vertical milling head attachment sheered off by similar events, and that would take some brute power to do that!