Central Heating Pipe route

[Doug the Tug]

My boat design means that I can't get all the central heating radiators on one side of my 66 foot Tug. Should I take the pipework under the floor, or all the way round the boat. I realise that all they way round will use more pipe, but will going under the floor risk freezing or undetected leaks?

 

Any advice?

 

Cheers, Doug.

[Keeping Up]

I wouldn't put them under the floor. Not only would any leaks be difficult to spot, they'd be a nightmare to try and fix. Also if you (say) decided to add another radiator later, you'd have to take up the floor to do so. Plus, you'd be using some of your precious heat in warming up the canal under the boat. On ours the boiler is at the stern, and the output immediately splits two ways. One goes up the same side of the boat, the other crosses by the rear bulkhead and then goes up the other side of the boat.

[Ally]

It is do-able to go under the floor to cross sides......put any unions above floor level, so no risk of leaking joints, and make a ply or similar box to contain and protect them underneath, and insulate with pipe insulation foam.......is only a short run, so little real loss there....but try to keep that section of the floor accessible for the future!

It is probably safer with copper pipe than plastic if you are doing this though.

 

Good luck!

[Ex- Member]

Our pipework is all under the floor but well insulated and runs along the top of the steel floor bearers We can get the floor up in most places, but to be honest the chances of getting a leak in modern plastic plumbing is slim as long as all is fitted correctly in the first place. There are also secondry insert fitments that almost guarantee no future leaks. You can use 22mm faom insulation tubes with a slit through that you wrap around the pipework. I bonded this on securly with gaffer tape then stuffed additional left over Rockwool insulation around that also when the pipe was in situe for good measure.

 

Where ever you put the pipes, if you want them hidden then something has to be dismantled to access them weather side panels or flooring.

 

Where you cross the boat with any piping put some clear markings on the floor so you'll know in the future where these pipes are and also avoid drilling and screwing in those areas. That's assuming you have a plywood floor with coverings to go on top.

[Neil TNC]

I wouldn't put them under the floor. Not only would any leaks be difficult to spot, they'd be a nightmare to try and fix. Also if you (say) decided to add another radiator later, you'd have to take up the floor to do so. Plus, you'd be using some of your precious heat in warming up the canal under the boat. On ours the boiler is at the stern, and the output immediately splits two ways. One goes up the same side of the boat, the other crosses by the rear bulkhead and then goes up the other side of the boat.

 

 

I agree. It will be storing up grief for the future.

It is cold in the bilges and any heat escape down there from hot pipes (however well they are insulated), will lead to condensation.

We have radiators on both sides, so pipes cross over at the stern end of the cabin. But again, like Keeping Up, our boiler is at the stern.

[RobinJ]

My boat design means that I can't get all the central heating radiators on one side of my 66 foot Tug. Should I take the pipework under the floor, or all the way round the boat. I realise that all they way round will use more pipe, but will going under the floor risk freezing or undetected leaks?

Shouldn't be a problem with freezing under the floor (nearer deeper water), but a pain for access etc.

If your talking about a proper two pipe system, I would say run it all the way round to the opposite side from the boiler, fit a bypass at the end if needed. Radiators can be fitted anywhere and if they all shut doen the pipes keep a background temperature going!

[blackrose]

Where ever you put the pipes, if you want them hidden then something has to be dismantled to access them weather side panels or flooring.

 

Ok, so for the same reason putting pipes behind side panels is not recommended either. My pipes are just boxed-in where the floor meets the side panels, and on most boats it's certainly easier to unscrew and lift off a bit of boxing-in than to lift the floor or take side panels off.

Edited March 10, 2009 by blackrose

[Alastair]

It is cold in the bilges and any heat escape down there from hot pipes (however well they are insulated), will lead to condensation.

Not so.

 

Taking warm damp air down there will lead to condensation.

 

Warm pipes will cause air to rise from the bilge and help keep it dry.

[chris w]

It is probably safer with copper pipe than plastic if you are doing this though.

I'd argue it's the other way round. Copper pipes are more prone to freezing and vibration damage than plastic pipes.

 

Chris

[Malarky]

Why not lay 15mm or so plastic pipe over insulation into concrete ballast, and have underfloor heating?

[Ally]

I'd argue it's the other way round. Copper pipes are more prone to freezing and vibration damage than plastic pipes.

 

Chris

 

Thus no joints under floor nd insulation though....helps with temp and vibration.