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Doug the Tug

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  1. I recently travelled the Wolverhampton 21 for the first time. Unlocking and relocking all the handcuff locks became very tiresome, particularly has many seem to be worn and therefore fiddly to unlock. I wondered why there were locks on all 4 paddles of each lock, surely just locking the paddles on either the top or the bottom would do the job. This would limit the potential loss of water to just one lock full, and half the hassle. Then if only every second lock had handcuff bolts, the hassle would be halved again. Still with limited potential loss of water.
  2. Slightly off topic,I know. But whilst we are talking about JD3's, does anyone have a reference number for an air filter?
  3. I think you will find it written into the baseplate in welds along the centre of the boat at the rear of the back cabin, behind the fuel tank. I think you will find it written into the baseplate in welds along the centre of the boat at the rear of the back cabin, behind the fuel tank.
  4. We took ours for 3 or 4 weekends without starting the engine. Then a weekend away. After that he was fine. In fact he likes it more than being at home. He is 16.
  5. Having recently acquired a new Beta JD3 engine, I now have to look after it. The documents suggest 15W/40, but also say API CG-4 or CF-4, the letters G and F seem a little higher than I expected for an engine design such as the JD3. The manual also says "Straight mineral oils are not suitable, neither are oils of less detergency than specified." Which if my understanding of oil specification is correct, would suggest that an API of say CF is not suitable. What do other owners of JD3's use?
  6. I will be getting my new boat in a few weeks time. As there is a Houdini in the galley, I was wondering how to stop condensation forming overnight and falling onto the wood floor. I am most concered about this happening when we are away from the boat for a couple of weeks and a substantial amount of water forming. Of course this may not be a problem when away from the boat as we are probably the main source of the condensation in the first place. Any useful tips?
  7. Thank you Catweasel, this is exactly the sort of answer I needed. A trusted recommendation based on personal experience for a fit for purpose meter at a sensible price. I will buy one - well as the boat will not be ready until Easter, I may pass on your recommendation to Santa. Thanks again, Doug
  8. I keep hearing that the most important piece of kit for a boat owner is a multimeter. Not sure if that is true, but it would seem sensible to have one and learn how to use one. As I live close to a CPC outlet, I searched their website (www.CPC.co.uk) for multimeter and got about 100 products to choose from. As a complete novice the only way to choose would be to assume more expensive means better quality. Whilst that statement is probably not true anyway, even if it were, I would then spend a lot of money on a piece of kit that is far to good for my needs and abilities. Anybody out there able to give a novice some good advice?
  9. No Boots your kit is OK, keep trying. The high strength value means your dish is talking to the box. You just need to point the dish in the right direction and the strength lines will go green and blue and the 11-14% will go up to 60-70%. Earlier in this thread will tell you just where to point it.
  10. My boat design means that I can't get all the central heating radiators on one side of my 66 foot Tug. Should I take the pipework under the floor, or all the way round the boat. I realise that all they way round will use more pipe, but will going under the floor risk freezing or undetected leaks? Any advice? Cheers, Doug.
  11. Thanks for the advice, under the gunnel and behind the stove it is then.
  12. Can anyone help? I am planning a fitout of a narrowboat with both the stove and the cooker on the port side. This will mean running the gas supply somewhere behind the stove. Is this advisable or even in compliance with regulations? Also, in "The Narrowboat Builder's Book" it says that "gas pipes should be as high as possible, usually not below the gunnel" yet everyone seems to run the gas just below the gunnel. Any advice?
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