spray foaming

[Phoenix_V]

We are rushing to get our replica barge ready for spray foaming as I have been told there are issues with doing this in the winter if the boat is in the open (condensation spoiling bond?)

Has anyone done this recently if so would really appreciate:

Any recommendations for spray firms please (or ones to avoid)

Any other advice

Thoughts on whether it is worth doing more than 25mm

How easy as cleaning up after did the sprayers assist

 

Please feel free to pm if more appropriate

 

thanks in anticipation

Phoenix_V

[sueb]

Trim as soon as possible as it sets hard. An old bread knife is ideal.

Sue

[Chris-B]

We used Foam Insulation Services ( Tony) 07855 495243 when we had the new tug deck area spryfoamed on Baldock

 

The guys were On Time, On Budget, Trimmed back all excess,hoovered up and reasonably priced

 

Give them a bell and say Baldock sent you

Ps he is also a boater !!

 

Chris

[DHutch]

Lenght of gaffa tape along all the batterns is a trick ive heard a few use.

[steelaway]

We are rushing to get our replica barge ready for spray foaming as I have been told there are issues with doing this in the winter if the boat is in the open (condensation spoiling bond?)

Has anyone done this recently if so would really appreciate:

Any recommendations for spray firms please (or ones to avoid)

Any other advice

Thoughts on whether it is worth doing more than 25mm

How easy as cleaning up after did the sprayers assist

 

Please feel free to pm if more appropriate

 

thanks in anticipation

Phoenix_V

 

 

Hi There

 

Regarding the thickness - they tend to spray to the top of any battening - 25mm on roof upto 50mm below gunnels

 

Alex

[ChrisPy]

Trim as soon as possible as it sets hard. An old bread knife is ideal.

Sue

and it's really easy and quick - I don't know why people dread doing it. The spoon-serrated type of bread knife worked for me, months after foaming.

[DHutch]

We have one inch polysterine aove gunnel, 2inchs below, which seams enought.

- Ofcause, more is better, but by the time you have a stack load of single glazed windows, the diffrence by my marginal.

 

 

Daniel

[NBMike]

I'm halfway through spraying my own boat. Its no cheaper (In fact its a bl**dy sight more expensive) but it was more convenient to me to do it a bit at a time. I've done the back cabin and around the water tank area. I cover the battens with masking tape and the cut back with a hand-saw. I'm not as expert as the Pros in getting smooth , even coverage but-as long as there are no gaps -and its going to be covered with ply anyway I've put on about 30-35ml and was told thicker than that is not really worth it for the decrease in heat-loss it would provide.

[ChrisPy]

I'm halfway through spraying my own boat. Its no cheaper (In fact its a bl**dy sight more expensive) but it was more convenient to me to do it a bit at a time. I've done the back cabin and around the water tank area. I cover the battens with masking tape and the cut back with a hand-saw. I'm not as expert as the Pros in getting smooth , even coverage but-as long as there are no gaps -and its going to be covered with ply anyway I've put on about 30-35ml and was told thicker than that is not really worth it for the decrease in heat-loss it would provide.

I agree. The important thing is to get a minimum of about 25mm and NO COLD SPOTS. 100% coverage is just as important as thickness. Difficult to get round the back of stiffeners, but if you're doing it yourself you will be much more careful than the pros. The important consideration is to cover all the steel surfaces so there is no opprtunity for condensation which creates damp and rusting. That is the big benefit of sprayfoam - fit and forget.