BSS - Fireproof board

[Chevetter]

I was chatting to the bloke in Ely Boat Chandlers (who is a boat safety inspector) the other week and he said that int he future there will be a regulation in the BSS that for all NEW boats (i.e. no need to worry about it on your existing boat) will need to have fireproof board around the hearth. As I'm refitting my boat (and having seen the blackened ply behind the tiles of my current fire surround) I thought I might as well do this. The guy from the chandlers called this board 'cement particle board' but I rang up a tile shop who supply it and they said that it doesn't claim to be fireproof. Does anyone have any more information on this regulation, what the board is called or from where I can get it?

 

Cheers in advance.

[RobinJ]

I was chatting to the bloke in Ely Boat Chandlers (who is a boat safety inspector) the other week and he said that int he future there will be a regulation in the BSS that for all NEW boats (i.e. no need to worry about it on your existing boat) will need to have fireproof board around the hearth. As I'm refitting my boat (and having seen the blackened ply behind the tiles of my current fire surround) I thought I might as well do this. The guy from the chandlers called this board 'cement particle board' but I rang up a tile shop who supply it and they said that it doesn't claim to be fireproof. Does anyone have any more information on this regulation, what the board is called or from where I can get it?

I thinkits probably similar to 'AquaBoard' thats available form B&Q, it seems to be a cement based 'plasterboard' used in showers!

[Gary Peacock]

Superlux or Fireboard is what you are after it used to be called Asbestolux.

[Ernie]

Superlux or Fireboard is what you are after it used to be called Asbestolux.

Hi Garry,

 

When I fitted the new solid fuel stove in place of the Bubble diesel last year, I re did the fire surround with Asbestolux and fixed the tiles with ordinary (good quality) ceramic tile cement. Over the past year, the majority of the tiles have come away from the Asbestolux. Not sure if it due to vibration or heat – I suspect it is the heat as they get very hot when the stove is stoked up.

 

In the not too distant future (when I can get myself into the right frame of mind), I am going to re-tile the fire surround.

 

Question: What do you use to fix tiles to Asbestolux?

[John Orentas]

Hi Chev.

 

Are you sure that the 'burning' did not occur before the tiles where fitted, yes it is a good idea to use a heat resistant board but I am always amazed at the heat resisting effects of tiles and other polished surfaces.. On my boat I fitted a polished brass heat deflector between the flue pipe and the cabin side, when the flue had reached 200/250 deg, the back of your hand could be comfortably placed on the deflector only 4 inches away.

[Ex- Member]

Did the fire board have a porus finish?, if so it would need sealing prior to using tile adhesive. I also used only flexible tile adhesives on the boat, all tiles around the hearth and the complete double shower and never suffered any tile loosening or even cracking in grout come to that. Another option is to use Gripfill for tiling (not water based) which I used directly around the fire stove, a bit more expensive but will stick tiles pretty much permanantly. All the tiling was done on 18mm Plywood even around the fire, all the 18 mm thick ply was sealed with Unibond prior to tiling, the stove has run over 2 winters and not had any problems with tiles cracking of burn marking. Shower has held out brilliantly also which I was worried about, as the tiling covers an entire 7 sq metres.

[blackrose]

Hi Garry,

 

When I fitted the new solid fuel stove in place of the Bubble diesel last year, I re did the fire surround with Asbestolux and fixed the tiles with ordinary (good quality) ceramic tile cement. Over the past year, the majority of the tiles have come away from the Asbestolux. Not sure if it due to vibration or heat – I suspect it is the heat as they get very hot when the stove is stoked up.

 

In the not too distant future (when I can get myself into the right frame of mind), I am going to re-tile the fire surround.

 

Question: What do you use to fix tiles to Asbestolux?

 

Because these fire-resistant boards are porus (the one I used is called Masterboard), they will absorb the water in the adhesive mix which can cause tiles to fall off. You should use prime the board with PVA or a tiling primer for porus surfaces before tiling. The other thing you can do is to use a heat resistant silicone to stick the tiles on instead of flexible tile adhesive, but you should still prime the board first.

[Ernie]

Because these fire-resistant boards are porus (the one I used is called Masterboard), they will absorb the water in the adhesive mix which can cause tiles to fall off. You should use prime the board with PVA or a tiling primer for porus surfaces before tiling. The other thing you can do is to use a heat resistant silicone to stick the tiles on instead of flexible tile adhesive, but you should still prime the board first.

 

Well, I have just spent a fun few hours removing the tiles and sanding the old tile cement that is still stuck to the Asbestolux smooth.

 

Looking at it, there appears to have been good adhesion of the cement to both the Asbestolux and the tiles so I suspect the problem has been flexing of the Asbestolux causing the cement to split. The cement I used was not of the flexible variety.

 

Photo at:

http://www.erniesplace.com/_BoatingDiaries...09_Banbury.shtm

 

I really want to make sure I get it right this time as tiling is not my favourite pastime and I don’t want to be replacing them all again this time next year.

 

 

The general consensus on this forum appears to be high temp silicone sealant or no more nails.

 

I take you point about sealing the Asbestolux, I will do that this time……

 

 

I would love to know what professional boat builders use – hence the question to Gary.

[blackrose]

I know some people have used it but I found No More Nails goes chalky and brittle after some time. High temp silicone will always be flexible but you do need to prime the board first. I got my stuff from a tile shop but PVA is probably just as good. If flexing of the substrate behind is an issue then I'd definately opt for high-temp silicone rather than flexible tile adhesive.

 

A diagonal cross of silicone from corner to corner of each tile should suffice. Start at the bottom and let each row set before doing the next one up. Then you can grout with a flexible grout.

 

http://www.geocel.co.uk/product.aspx?id=80&pr=dctm

Edited June 14, 2008 by blackrose

[jeb]

[

A diagonal cross of silicone from corner to corner of each tile should suffice. Start at the bottom and let each row set before doing the next one up. Then you can grout with a flexible grout.

 

http://www.geocel.co.uk/product.aspx?id=80&pr=dctm

 

To speed the job up you can put a couple of blobs of glue from a hot glue gun between the diagonals of mastic and this will set rapidly and hold the tiles until the mastic sets allowing you to proceed as quick as you like.

[blackrose]

To speed the job up you can put a couple of blobs of glue from a hot glue gun between the diagonals of mastic and this will set rapidly and hold the tiles until the mastic sets allowing you to proceed as quick as you like.

 

Nice idea!

[Ex- Member]

Well, I have just spent a fun few hours removing the tiles and sanding the old tile cement that is still stuck to the Asbestolux smooth.

 

Looking at it, there appears to have been good adhesion of the cement to both the Asbestolux and the tiles so I suspect the problem has been flexing of the Asbestolux causing the cement to split. The cement I used was not of the flexible variety.

 

Photo at:

http://www.erniesplace.com/_BoatingDiaries...09_Banbury.shtm

 

I really want to make sure I get it right this time as tiling is not my favourite pastime and I don’t want to be replacing them all again this time next year.

 

 

The general consensus on this forum appears to be high temp silicone sealant or no more nails.

 

I take you point about sealing the Asbestolux, I will do that this time……

 

 

I would love to know what professional boat builders use – hence the question to Gary.

 

The most important thing firstly is the rigidity of the area to be applied with tiles. This really has to be fixed well and solid using 18mm ply. Personally I wouldn't use fireproof board, but if you do then affix the board, again securely to the ply, glues and screwed possibly. This is then a good rigid area to affix tiles.

[AndyM]

I was chatting to the bloke in Ely Boat Chandlers (who is a boat safety inspector) the other week and he said that int he future there will be a regulation in the BSS that for all NEW boats (i.e. no need to worry about it on your existing boat) will need to have fireproof board around the hearth. As I'm refitting my boat (and having seen the blackened ply behind the tiles of my current fire surround) I thought I might as well do this. The guy from the chandlers called this board 'cement particle board' but I rang up a tile shop who supply it and they said that it doesn't claim to be fireproof. Does anyone have any more information on this regulation, what the board is called or from where I can get it?

 

Cheers in advance.

 

I bought Aqualux board from Jewsons in Angel Drove Ely to line around my Squirel - just needs to be sealed with a PVA wash then tiles stuck on with silicone and grouted with flexible grout additive (no water added) No problems at all so far.

 

Andy.

[Ernie]

Thanks all,

 

Looks like it's PVA and high temp silicone sealant then.

[fudd]

Superlux or Fireboard is what you are after it used to be called Asbestolux.

Gary is right. You could do worse than adding another skin of fire retardent plasterboard over the superlux, then the tiles will stay put. you'll lose another half inch of space but what price peace of mind. Good luck Steve P.

[goldtone]

I'll be re-tiling my hearth this weekend. Do I also need to PVA the tiles if I use heat resistant sealant?

[AndyM]

I'll be re-tiling my hearth this weekend. Do I also need to PVA the tiles if I use heat resistant sealant?

 

No I just sealed the board with watered down PVA, left it to dry then a "Spiral" of silicone (normal general purpose sealant from Screwfix) on each tile to stick it to the dried board. When dry, grout with fexible addiditve and grout powder - no water just additive. All my tiles are still in place OK (so far!!).

 

Andy

[wonderdust]

If you are using silicone then no you do not have to use pva, pva is only used to prevent suction in water based products! Infact using pva creates a barrior beetweeen then the board and adhesive! Think about it!

[Eddimonton]

I used Superlux and it costs about £60 for a whole sheet from the Plumb Centre

[colin stone]

Masterboard.

I put mine up with half inch air gap behind. Both adjoining cpd and bulkhead have series of holes along bottom to allow air in for convection cooling. Tiled with proper thick hearth tiles and used a flexible tile adhesive. Grouted with a tub of Purimachos XL fire cement.

 

http://www.luxe-motor-kei.co.uk/internal/page/image171.html

[ditchcrawler]

Masterboard.

I put mine up with half inch air gap behind. Both adjoining cpd and bulkhead have series of holes along bottom to allow air in for convection cooling. Tiled with proper thick hearth tiles and used a flexible tile adhesive. Grouted with a tub of Purimachos XL fire cement.

 

http://www.luxe-motor-kei.co.uk/internal/page/image171.html

This is the best bet, an air gap between the heat resistant materials and the wood, another way is a sheet of stainless steal or brass on spacers behind the stove with an air gap behind.

If you are using no-nails or similar adhesives make sure they are not flammable, the silicon is probably the best bet, but like Colin I used flexible tile adhesive.

[canalchris]

I have in the past ,fitted coal and wood burning stoves for friends ,i have seen some horrendous examples of conducted heat damage to underlying layers , and being an ex firefighter its easy to see that the only reason these have not gone up in flames has been because of lack of oxygen. if you go into a travis perkins building supplies or similar and ask for the equivelant to the old asbestos board, they should be able to supply you with the modern equivalent, if memory serves me right it is available in two thicknesses.if thicker use one , if thinner use 2, Screw to wall behind and to side of fire and tile on top of board,

[andywatson]

Thanks all,

 

Looks like it's PVA and high temp silicone sealant then.

 

For the BSS, to comply with new rules I had to cover the ends of my silencer to avoid being able to accidentaly touch hot metal. I made shaped covers from fireboard stuck onto the silencer with silicone sealant. Even the downward facing ones have remained in place despite heat and vibration from the engine.

 

Ceresit high temperature silicone sealant is £4.10p for a 310 ml tube from screwfix.

item number 69815.

Edited January 21, 2009 by andywatson