Mooring ropes

[dave_2A_]

What is recommended for a N/B? 10 metre? 10mm or thicker? Is 2 enough?

So many questions, so little time..

[Liam]

Don't know about what others use, but I use two sets... fore and aft, which stay on the moorings and are only used as mooring lines and then I have a second set, for cruising. These are coiled up when we're not out on the boat and stored out of the way.

 

I use Manilla for both sets, both are about 12mm or 15mm, not sure of the exact dimension but mooring rope is only as long as it needs to be, to go from the boat, to bank and then back to the boat. The front rope is about 20ft long, and the aft rope about 30ft - 35ft.

 

I do this because I was finding that the longer cruising ropes were not lasting as long due to them being used all the time when I used them on the moorings. I cut down an old set which was ready for the bin so I can get twice as much out of them now leaving the longer, more expensive ones looking and feeling like new when we go out.

Edited March 26, 2008 by Liam

[KenK]

What is recommended for a N/B? 10 metre? 10mm or thicker? Is 2 enough?

So many questions, so little time..

 

Three minimum, one front, one back, one centre. Centre line should according to conventional wisdom be long enough to reach from the tiller but not long enough to foul the prop if it falls in the water. Front and back as long as you like depends on where your cruising, on the Thames the locky normally expects you to pass a rope around the bollard and back down to the boat front and back and you hang on, stops you crunching all those nice plastic gin palaces you are in the lock with.

 

We have two sets one longer than the other in case of need. Thickness is your choice but thicker is easier to grip and less likely to take the skin off, gloves are a good idea if you're hanging on to the boat.

 

Ken

Edited March 26, 2008 by KenK

[dave_2A_]

Ta muchly

[WJM]

You will need one very long rope to coil up and hang on the tiller (about 4 feet above the propellor) as a boatee style/status symbol. By keeping this rope jauntily dangling from the tiller pin, you will be immune from the 'whatever can go wrong will go wrong' affliction endured by mere mortals.

[jollyroger]

What is recommended for a N/B? 10 metre? 10mm or thicker? Is 2 enough?

So many questions, so little time..

I also carry one rope to use as a spring, find it very useful when mooring in bad weather

[Brin Morris]

Don't forget to carry a long rope so the kids can make a swing from the nearest tree best rope that I have got it keeps them quite for ages (especially when I tie them up with it)

[saltysplash]

Don't know about what others use, but I use two sets... fore and aft, which stay on the moorings and are only used as mooring lines and then I have a second set, for cruising. These are coiled up when we're not out on the boat and stored out of the way.

 

I use Manilla for both sets, both are about 12mm or 15mm, not sure of the exact dimension but mooring rope is only as long as it needs to be, to go from the boat, to bank and then back to the boat. The front rope is about 20ft long, and the aft rope about 30ft - 35ft.

 

 

 

We do exactly the same. set of old rope for the moorings and a set of decent if rather long for bow and stern when out and about, they can also double up as springs due to their length.

 

BTW they are true rope made at the Chatham Historic Dockyard ropary.

 

When were at base they hang in the shed ......always hang your ropes, or allow to dry naturally in the sun

[dave_2A_]

erm................springs?

[Tusses]

erm................springs?

 

a good lenght of rope has some'give' in it - hence acting as a spring

 

I think thats what it means anyway ! LOL

[Bones]

erm................springs?

 

the rope is pinned 45 degrees to one bit, then looped across to another pin 45degrees in the other direction. Helps keep the boat in one place.

[dave_2A_]

Ahhhhh - with you now! - thanks

[Alastair]

the rope is pinned 45 degrees to one bit, then looped across to another pin 45degrees in the other direction. Helps keep the boat in one place.

Nope.

 

Springs run from the bow to a point on the bank/pontoon near the stern, and visa versa. Not at 45 degrees.

 

They should really be separate ropes.

 

they should be combined with normal bow and stern ropes.

 

See

[jelunga]

Absolutly correct. I agree with this answer and diagram. That is what it said in both my "Arthur Ransome" book and my Penguin "Sailing" by Peter Heaton.

 

What is not correct is my spelling of absolutley, both times.

 

Not that I would ever disagree with anything said by the highly educated Bones, but well there we are

 

Keith

 

Nope.

 

Springs run from the bow to a point on the bank/pontoon near the stern, and visa versa. Not at 45 degrees.

 

They should really be separate ropes.

 

they should be combined with normal bow and stern ropes.

 

See

Edited March 28, 2008 by jelunga

[Keeping Up]

The answer and the diagram are of course 100% correct, but in practice you get a surprisingly big advantage if after setting the bow and stern lines as shown in the diagram, you just add one of the two springs (bow or stern) even if it's only a short one perhaps 3 or 4 feet long. The main thing is to make sure it's pulled tight.