Sterling alternator to battery charger.

[Lee J]

Hi,

 

Does anybody know what one of these things actually does? Is it worth the extra pennies when compared to a normal alternator controller?

 

Lee

[Tony Brooks]

Hi,

 

Does anybody know what one of these things actually does? Is it worth the extra pennies when compared to a normal alternator controller?

 

Lee

 

I think it uses technology related to switched mode power supplies to produce a higher DC voltage. Think of it as taking the alternator output, pulsing it, passing the pulses through a transformer and then smoothing the resultant higher voltage pulses so it will charge the battery.

 

Ms S says it is an amplifier which it is not (although it does amplify voltage) because he can not tell me what "class" of amplifier it is.

 

The thing MUST use power to work itself and through heat so in terms of wattage it will always deliver less wattage than an alternator produces, but the higher voltage it produces may (or may not) produce a cost effective advantage over a conventional modern alternator controller.

 

At least with most controllers you can disconnect them when they fail and revert to the alternators own regulator. I suspect rewiring would be required if this device is used. Await a deluge of reports and assess them before making a decision.

[steelaway]

Hi,

 

Does anybody know what one of these things actually does? Is it worth the extra pennies when compared to a normal alternator controller?

 

Lee

 

Buy one!!

Absolutly crucial to have one.

It will charge the battery's at the maximum that your alternator is capable of, faster and for longer than any ordinary controller.

I does what it says on the box.

By the way I have no connection with Charles Stirling and having talked to him I am not even sure I like him.

Wait for ChrisW to give you chapter and verse

[Lee J]

Thanks folks,

 

I do intend having an external controller, but specifically is there much advantage to the much more expensive alternator/battery charger?

 

Lee

[Tony Brooks]

Buy one!!

Absolutly crucial to have one.

It will charge the battery's at the maximum that your alternator is capable of, faster and for longer than any ordinary controller.

I does what it says on the box.

By the way I have no connection with Charles Stirling and having talked to him I am not even sure I like him.

Wait for ChrisW to give you chapter and verse

 

 

Sorry, but that unit can not charge at the maximum the alternator is capable off because even Ms S can not rewrite the laws of physics. There must be some loss, but how much is open to question.

 

Taken over a charging period I am sure it is likely that it will produce a higher AVERAGE charge than the standard alternator, but I am not so sure it will do better than a modern advanced controller using a similar charging regime.

 

There is an advantage in that you do not need to modify the existing regulator, but I suspect a modern controller will be marginally faster at battery charging than the Sterling unit under discussion because of lower heat losses.

 

I suspect the Sterling advance controller use a very similar regime (one would need to obtain and look at the voltage and current curves) and would thus prouder a similar result. From what I know of the the TCW? device may also do as well.

[steelaway]

Thanks folks,

 

I do intend having an external controller, but specifically is there much advantage to the much more expensive alternator/battery charger?

 

Lee

 

All I can tell you is that I would not change mine, I have had it for 3 years and have never been short of electrical power.

I have an 110 amp alternator and it's very assuring to hear the engine revs drop when the controller starts the alternator charging - you know it is charging hard

It is also very simple to install, you take the wire from the alternator to the controler - you take a wire back to the battery's.

No complications (no modifications therefore no issues with warrantees) just make sure the wires are big enough to carry the maximum charge the alternator is rated at.

[Lee J]

Sold to the man in the silly hat!

[steelaway]

Sold to the man in the silly hat!

 

No problem Lee

 

'Moist Badger'???!!!

 

And you think I'm silly??

 

Regards

Alex

[chris w]

Basically the Sterling (digital) Alternator controller will charge your batteries faster than the Sterling Alternator-to-Battery (ABC) controller.

 

However the ABC is far simpler to fit and will not void the warranty on an alternator. The Sterling digital alternator controller requires a wire to be soldered to one of the internal regulator's brushes and so is not for someone without a reasonable knowledge of electronics and will void the warranty in so doing. The ABC requires only external wires and can be fitted very quickly. I have the digital alternator controller and love its performance with my batteries.

 

The difference in price is, I suspect, just market positioning so that the two products don't cannabalise each other.

 

Chris

[Lee J]

Thanks Chris,

 

As I understand however, the ABC will allow me to utilise both alternators for both start and domestic charging. This surely more than compensates for the power it consumes.

 

I would have thought that the start battery would not take long to recharge (on the assumption that the engine start quickly) so on a more conventional setup the smaller alternator is not doing very much for most of the time.

 

BTW Alex, I was refering to myself wearing the silly hat, I am not in anyway questioning your sanity! I am sure you are at least as sensible as anyone on this forum!

 

Lee

[chris w]

Thanks Chris,

 

As I understand however, the ABC will allow me to utilise both alternators for both start and domestic charging. This surely more than compensates for the power it consumes.

 

This is correct Lee. I'm not sure the ABC uses any more power than the digital version (the PDAR); it will just take a little longer to charge your domestic bank than the PDAR because of the way it is doing it (by pulsing).

 

The ABC is an excellent choice for charging 2 sets of batteries from one alternator. Chris

 

 

I would have thought that the start battery would not take long to recharge (on the assumption that the engine start quickly) so on a more conventional setup the smaller alternator is not doing very much for most of the time. Correct - Chris

[smileypete]

BTW Sterling sometimes auction off refurbished stuff on Ebay for £not much.

 

http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZcharlesterling

 

cheers,

Pete.

Edited January 12, 2008 by smileypete

[Denis R]

I've got through two Alternator to Battery chargers in 18 months. Whilst they've been working they've been fine, but both failed in the same mode. First it would be reluctant to 'fire up' and then would intermittently cut-out at odd points through the charging cycle and then not fire up at all. In both cases from fully functional to dead took about a week. Mine was configured with two alternators feeding - 70Amp and 40Amp and of course the alternator charge light on one of the alternators wouldn't operate in this mode. I used the ABC to combine the output of two alternators to boost the charge rate and with the benefit of hindsight wouldn't have done it this way given what I know now.

I had the units installed by a very competent boat electrician and from my understanding of electrics there is nothing that I can see that pins the problem on installation. It really is a very simple installation. I'm sceptical about the double alternator configuration however and I wouldn't recommend it now.

[stuart]

I'm sceptical about the double alternator configuration however and I wouldn't recommend it now.

 

Did you get an explanation of the fault with the units when they were returned? Did you get good customer service?

[Denis R]

I've not had an explanation of the failures - not that I asked mind you. The first unit was exchanged over the counter without question and the replacement is back for repair/exchange at the moment. I'm back to the original regime of 40amp alternator feeding the starter battery and the 70amp alternator the domestic batteries and am minded to leave it like that now. I'm sure the ABC would work fine with a single alternator feed but as I said, I've got no evidence on which to base my suspicion of the double alternator set up.

[Broughton 2]

I've got through two Alternator to Battery chargers in 18 months. Whilst they've been working they've been fine, but both failed in the same mode. First it would be reluctant to 'fire up' and then would intermittently cut-out at odd points through the charging cycle and then not fire up at all. In both cases from fully functional to dead took about a week. Mine was configured with two alternators feeding - 70Amp and 40Amp and of course the alternator charge light on one of the alternators wouldn't operate in this mode. I used the ABC to combine the output of two alternators to boost the charge rate and with the benefit of hindsight wouldn't have done it this way given what I know now.

I had the units installed by a very competent boat electrician and from my understanding of electrics there is nothing that I can see that pins the problem on installation. It really is a very simple installation. I'm sceptical about the double alternator configuration however and I wouldn't recommend it now.

 

As I am about to buy a Sterling alternator to Battery Charger your report was of concern so I contacted Sterling and asked if there was/is a problem with this equipment. My note to Sterling and their reply is as follows:-

 

My note. "As I intend(ed?) coupling two alternators to a 1260 Charger the below statement about such arrangement causes concern ( www.canalworld.net/equipment ). I shall be grateful if you will say whether or not there is or has been a reliability issue when coupling two alternators to Sterling alternator to Battery Chargers (or has the person who wrote the statement just been unlucky?)."

 

Charles Sterling (Sterling Power Products Ltd.) reply. "There is no problem doing this, i am afraid the guy did not read his instructions about alternators which do not fire up, there is a small ignition feed to cure this problem built into the unit.. also a simple phone call to us would have poinyed him in the right direction to fixed this .

 

I suggest you contact Sterling for the "small ignition feed to cure this problem" and then hopefully all will be resolved.

 

Shall be gratefull if you will say what engine you have as my Beta engine also has two alternators (70W and 40W) and possibly I may have same issue when I connect the Sterling unit.

 

Finally, how do you know when one of the two alternators does not fire up? I only have a single warning lamp, not one lamp for each.

[stuart]

I only have a single warning lamp, not one lamp for each.

 

 

I'd have thought it would be fairly simple to wire this up with a second lamp, Chris W is the man to ask.

[chris w]

I'd have thought it would be fairly simple to wire this up with a second lamp, Chris W is the man to ask.

 

While it is very simply (using just 2 diodes) to wire up one lamp to monitor two alternators, it would take more complex electronics to know which alternator was not working properly should the lamp come on. Much simpler, by far, to add a second lamp to your control panel so that each alternator is independently monitored.

 

Chris

[Sir Nibble]

Regrettably, diodes in the warning lamp line will block indication of certain fault conditions.

[chris w]

Regrettably, diodes in the warning lamp line will block indication of certain fault conditions.

 

I agree Jerry. If the D+ voltage went up above the B+ voltage (blown alternator output diode say) then the lamp would not light if a diode had been inserted in the warning lamp lead.

 

Chris

[tosher]

I have a Sterling 210 amp Alternator-to-Battery charger with both alternators (110amp & 70amp on Isuzu 42hp engine) connected together. This has worked fine for a year now with no problems at all. I also have a remote control panel which shows alternator output and on occasions when my batteries were a bit low I have seen this reading 150amps which is a good indication that both alternators are working ok. tosher

[chris w]

You must have a 3:1 pulley ratio to get that output as the normal 2:1 would only achieve about 120 amps max.

 

Chris

[tosher]

You must have a 3:1 pulley ratio to get that output as the normal 2:1 would only achieve about 120 amps max.

 

Chris

 

You've got me there, not sure what the pulley ratio is but out of interest I will check when next on board. tosher

[Broughton 2]

While it is very simply (using just 2 diodes) to wire up one lamp to monitor two alternators, it would take more complex electronics to know which alternator was not working properly should the lamp come on. Much simpler, by far, to add a second lamp to your control panel so that each alternator is independently monitored.

 

Chris

 

Thanks Chris, I like the idea of adding a second lamp. Can you say how it must be wired in? Bear in mind I know nowt so keep it simple.

 

Alan

[chris w]

Thanks Chris, I like the idea of adding a second lamp. Can you say how it must be wired in? Bear in mind I know nowt so keep it simple.

 

Alan

 

1. run a wire from the ignition switch (the side that is normally OFF when the ignition switch is OFF) to the new lamp. Use a 3 watt lamp minimum to ensure there is enough current to wake-up the alternator without having to rev up.

 

2. connect the other side of the lamp to the terminal marked 'D' or 'D+' on your alternator.

 

Job done.

 

Chris