Town Class Woolwich Cabin Measurements

[Darrenroberts]

Hi guys, I was wondering if any one out there could help me with some key measurements for Bristol's new back cabin. I am looking for specs for the positioning of the following parts;

Bulls eye

mushroom vent 

chimney coller 

letter box vents. 

hatch lid length and width  

The new hatch will be a steel construction, am unsure yet about replicating the tapered fit but a rough length would be great. 

Any help with the above would be greatly appreciated 

Thanks 

Darren 

[spud]

dont make sense. want to position everything right but 'unsure yet about replicating the tapered fit' for hatch. dont make sense

 

bbs have just done the cabin on a big wolwich

[BWM]

8 hours ago, Darrenroberts said:

Hi guys, I was wondering if any one out there could help me with some key measurements for Bristol's new back cabin. I am looking for specs for the positioning of the following parts;

Bulls eye

mushroom vent 

chimney coller 

letter box vents. 

hatch lid length and width  

The new hatch will be a steel construction, am unsure yet about replicating the tapered fit but a rough length would be great. 

Any help with the above would be greatly appreciated 

Thanks 

Darren 

Which area are you in? Welcome to take measurements of mine (Timber cabin, original shape and dimensions), only the bulls eye has been moved forwards from its normal spot. 

[David Mack]

Dave Ross has just put a new right-shape steel back cabin on Belfast (to replace the previous one which was very much the wrong shape). You are welcome to come and take a look and some measurements. Currently still at Stretton Wharf.

You could also take a look at Fulbourne, currently out and about in Staffordshire, but will be at the Pelsall rally at the end of the month. Fulbourne has original steel engine room and authentic wooden cabin structure built by Rex Wain in about 1987 (and owner internal fitout) and still in pretty good condition.

[Steve Priest]

The following measurements are from my own little Woolwich, and were from measuring mainly waterways cabins over the years. There is a bit of latitude on these, they weren’t all the same, but this is what I ended up using.

 

Measured from the back bulkhead forward to the centreline of each.

 

Chimney collar   25”

Bull’s eye.           49”

Mushroom v.      88”

Letterbox vent ( again to the centre ) 23 1/4”, with the top edge 6 3/4 below the top of the handrail and parallel to it

Slide hole (aperture size, so measured to the back of the timber facing, to the edge of the runner itself)

width at bulkhead 20 1/2”, width at front 19 3/4” depth 22”

 

Is your cabin fitted out? If so, you will need to bear that in mind, especially if the internal proportions are not standard, such as if the bed has been made wider than normal at the expense of the range shelf.

 

Woolwich boats had 5 1/2” fabricated chimney collars, made from a piece of around 5mm plate and a piece of tube 5 1/2” o.d., and the space between the handrail and slide runner is fairly tight on motor boats. For my money I would certainly taper the slide, besides it will allow a little more space for the chimney collar. Even with steel slide runners, I would fit a wooden slide, steel ones are too heavy and clumsy I find. If you do need to put it a little further forwards, make sure that the front bolt is clear of the rear table bulkhead, especially if the range shelf is not as long as it should be.

 

The bull’s eye the dimension I have given will mean that it is well clear of the bed, the cabin frame, and valance. If the bed is wider than the standard 39” you may have to move it back a bit, but if you move it back too far then the slide will clobber it when fully open

 

[Darrenroberts]

2 hours ago, Steve Priest said:

The following measurements are from my own little Woolwich, and were from measuring mainly waterways cabins over the years. There is a bit of latitude on these, they weren’t all the same, but this is what I ended up using.

 

Measured from the back bulkhead forward to the centreline of each.

 

Chimney collar   25”

Bull’s eye.           49”

Mushroom v.      88”

Letterbox vent ( again to the centre ) 23 1/4”, with the top edge 6 3/4 below the top of the handrail and parallel to it

Slide hole (aperture size, so measured to the back of the timber facing, to the edge of the runner itself)

width at bulkhead 20 1/2”, width at front 19 3/4” depth 22”

 

Is your cabin fitted out? If so, you will need to bear that in mind, especially if the internal proportions are not standard, such as if the bed has been made wider than normal at the expense of the range shelf.

 

Woolwich boats had 5 1/2” fabricated chimney collars, made from a piece of around 5mm plate and a piece of tube 5 1/2” o.d., and the space between the handrail and slide runner is fairly tight on motor boats. For my money I would certainly taper the slide, besides it will allow a little more space for the chimney collar. Even with steel slide runners, I would fit a wooden slide, steel ones are too heavy and clumsy I find. If you do need to put it a little further forwards, make sure that the front bolt is clear of the rear table bulkhead, especially if the range shelf is not as long as it should be.

 

The bull’s eye the dimension I have given will mean that it is well clear of the bed, the cabin frame, and valance. If the bed is wider than the standard 39” you may have to move it back a bit, but if you move it back too far then the slide will clobber it when fully open

Hi there Steve this is brilliant information, thank you. I've just cross referenced you positions with the drawing I've been working on and there nearly bang on. Roger Farrington is currently fabricating the cabin steel work using the timber cabin measurements of Aldgate. The old cabin was to far gone to be saved not to mention totally out in a lot of critical areas, so it made more sense to start again. I've been measuring back from the rear bulkhead rivets too, are you measurements from the centers of those or the rear most edge?

 

I removed the old boatman's cabin (as apposed to smashing it out) just to make my life easier when constructing the new one as I hope I can use some of the sections to template off or at least make scribing quicker. Internally I have a blank canvas at this stage. I fully intend to construct the new boatman's as close to how the original would have been as I can, including tapering bed "ole" my cabin drawings specify the range shelf dimensions to accommodate a 24" range, off the top of my head (ill have to double check that)  

 

I am defiantly committed tapered hatch as well after chalking up the collar position. 

 

Thanks again for you measurements, That's really helpful and perfect timing as iam hoping to mark the final positions for cutting out tomorrow morning. 

 

Cheers, Darren  

 

[Steve Priest]

My measurements were taken from the back edge of the bulkhead, i.e. the back of the doors when closed

[David Mack]

3 hours ago, Darrenroberts said:

my cabin drawings specify the range shelf dimensions to accommodate a 24" range, off the top of my head (ill have to double check that)

Although you may struggle to find a 24" range these days. New Eppings are apparently still sometimes available, but anything second hand (ebay etc.) almost always seems to be 27" or 30". You may be able to squeeze in 27" although there won't be much clearance between the edge of the (hot) stove top plate and the cabin woodwork, and 30" almost certainly won't fit at all.

All a bit easier if you aren't constrained by an original engine room and can build a slightly extended back cabin!

[Graham_Robinson]

Nearly bang on?
He won't like that!  😆

Edited August 9, 2023 by Graham_Robinson

[ditchcrawler]

I don't know if this is of any interest 22"  (1) Canal Market Place | Pictures information on improved traditional stoves I have recently completed | Facebook

Pictures information on improved traditional stoves I have recently completed. Built from laser cut 4, 5 and 6 mm mild steel with welded seams - these will not crack or distort like cast iron. I have tried to keep the theme and feel of a cast stove by adding an angled top edge and fitting refurbished cast iron doors. The stoves are thicker throughout than an equivalent cast iron stove and should last a lot longer. (Check out the pictures for how thin some modern cast stove parts are!)

The doors are scribed and ground to fit the face of the stove accurately. Hinging arrangements also ensure that there is no play once the door is closed, meaning good air regulation and a highly controllable stove. The exhaust fitment is welded 5mm steel, with an internal fitting that the stove pipe locates inside. This prevents any tar or moisture running onto the top of the stove. The cast adapters on most stoves of this type are known for cracking as well as damper mechanisms falling apart inside.

Internally the stoves are fitted with refractory firebrick material which should outlast lower cost vermiculite solutions. The rear and side of the stove is insulated with ceramic fibre lagging to retain heat in the oven area and limit external temperature at the sides.

These stoves are hand built to order to ensure consistent quality is achieved. Each stove is then tested to temperature before despatch. As with anything of quality, they are not cheap, coming out at around £2200. Small adaptations are possible to meet individual requirements, but safety and quality will always take priority.

Dimensions overall are 560W x 640H x 370D

[Graham_Robinson]

On 09/08/2023 at 21:25, ditchcrawler said:

I don't know if this is of any interest 22"  (1) Canal Market Place | Pictures information on improved traditional stoves I have recently completed | Facebook

Pictures information on improved traditional stoves I have recently completed. Built from laser cut 4, 5 and 6 mm mild steel with welded seams - these will not crack or distort like cast iron. I have tried to keep the theme and feel of a cast stove by adding an angled top edge and fitting refurbished cast iron doors. The stoves are thicker throughout than an equivalent cast iron stove and should last a lot longer. (Check out the pictures for how thin some modern cast stove parts are!)

The doors are scribed and ground to fit the face of the stove accurately. Hinging arrangements also ensure that there is no play once the door is closed, meaning good air regulation and a highly controllable stove. The exhaust fitment is welded 5mm steel, with an internal fitting that the stove pipe locates inside. This prevents any tar or moisture running onto the top of the stove. The cast adapters on most stoves of this type are known for cracking as well as damper mechanisms falling apart inside.

Internally the stoves are fitted with refractory firebrick material which should outlast lower cost vermiculite solutions. The rear and side of the stove is insulated with ceramic fibre lagging to retain heat in the oven area and limit external temperature at the sides.

These stoves are hand built to order to ensure consistent quality is achieved. Each stove is then tested to temperature before despatch. As with anything of quality, they are not cheap, coming out at around £2200. Small adaptations are possible to meet individual requirements, but safety and quality will always take priority.

Dimensions overall are 560W x 640H x 370D

Really?

[ditchcrawler]

1 hour ago, Graham_Robinson said:

Really?

Sorry if its of no interest to you.

[Darrenroberts]

On 09/08/2023 at 19:07, Steve Priest said:

My measurements were taken from the back edge of the bulkhead, i.e. the back of the doors when closed

sorry yeh back bullhead...... I've marked everything up now and its looking/ feeling right. The only bit iam worried about now is the cabin porthole positioning. So far I've got these measurements..

gunnel top to porthole center at 16 3/4 (same as the engine ole)

handrail top edge to porthole center at 19"

rear bulkhead to porthole center at 46 1/2" 

engine ole bulkhead to porthole center at 52"

(cabin hight from gunnel to handrail top is 39" at rear bulkhead)

 

Dose that sound there or there abuts to you ?

 

Cheers

Darren 

 

 

 

 

[Steve Priest]

That sounds ok to me, my porthole is centred at 43 1/2” from the back bulkhead.

 

[Darrenroberts]

1 hour ago, Steve Priest said:

That sounds ok to me, my porthole is centred at 43 1/2” from the back bulkhead.

 

prefect cheers mate thanks again for all your help