Slim Posted February 5, 2022 Report Share Posted February 5, 2022 16 hours ago, Balloon said: Do people consider a boat well trimmed if it slants aft, then? I always quite like mine level. Maybe I’ll have a rethink. The fuel boat comes next week. I’ll fill up and see how the deck looks Most narrowboats are trimmed stern down and some Things are built /installed with this in mind. Sink drain, shower drain ,well deck drain(as you have discovered) and of course bilge. Do you have access to the bilge and where is it located? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tam & Di Posted February 5, 2022 Report Share Posted February 5, 2022 19 hours ago, Slim said: I have my doubts as to whether jacking up would have any lasting effect. What caused the deck to crater? Excessive load ? metal loss (rust?) Insufficient framing support - could possibly be cured if access to underside allows for welding some form of slightly bowed cross-member. Tam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balloon Posted February 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2022 Yes, I’m pretty sure it’s insufficient framing. I can access underneath the problem area (this is where my water pump is) and there’s nothing to support the well deck all the way across the breadth of the deck. The steel spans the deck with no support behind the water tank which is further forward than the problem area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robtheplod Posted February 6, 2022 Report Share Posted February 6, 2022 On 04/02/2022 at 23:25, blackrose said: Easiest, but maybe not the best. You can buy big ones (1m x 1m) from Homebase for about 17 quid out just cable tie some small ones together and cut to size to do the whole deck. It does tend to collect leaves and other detritus though so as long as you don't mind pulling them out to hose down the deck every so often. The puddle will still be there but at least it means you're not always stepping in it. I love this solution.. reminds me of earlier Microsoft days when their servers had an issue and kept rebooting... the 'fix' was to make them boot quicker! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bee Posted February 6, 2022 Report Share Posted February 6, 2022 If welding is not easy or possible then angle iron bolted underneath the bowed deck would do the job, galvanised dome headed bolts and nuts would be best, after ll, when they are tight they are only like a few rivets, you might have to use the ones with a square bit below the head, just file it round. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Balloon Posted February 6, 2022 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2022 1 minute ago, Bee said: If welding is not easy or possible then angle iron bolted underneath the bowed deck would do the job, galvanised dome headed bolts and nuts would be best, after ll, when they are tight they are only like a few rivets, you might have to use the ones with a square bit below the head, just file it round. This is a really good idea. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted February 6, 2022 Report Share Posted February 6, 2022 Roofing bolts would be ideal except they have a tendency for the head to pop off the shank if over stresses. Their heads are far flatter than normal domed head bolts and they have cross slots in the head to help hold them during tightening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted February 6, 2022 Report Share Posted February 6, 2022 1 hour ago, Bee said: If welding is not easy or possible then angle iron bolted underneath the bowed deck would do the job, And get the angle iron slightly curved before fitting, so that it pushes the middle of the deck up. As you tighten the bolts it will tend to straighten, but having a residual rise towards the middle will help direct the rainwater towards the scuppers either side. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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