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Gear speed wheel control


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2 minutes ago, MtB said:

Lol, the quick way is to hang a weight on it.



Strangely enough, this also works on slipping Morso controls, more than once have I had to hang a rucksack or other convenient weight on a sloppy control that wants to revert to tickover at all times.

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As Mike said, a heavy weight will do the job. I hung a club hammer head from the handle of the gear change wheel for some time. My preferred solution was to drill and tap the side sf the rod support near to the handle and then use a piece of bolt shank with a small piece of steel welded on to allow a quick tweak once in gear. Worked beautifully!

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I actually use a rather pretty vintage 5lb brass scales weight, with a copper ring soldered to the top to hang on the handle on the speedwheel of my gear control. 


It is however, a bodge and a workaround. As I understand it, the correct solution is to rebuild the reversing gear with a new, accurately-machined tailshaft bearing in particular, and align the engine accurately with the prop shaft.


Hanging a weight is quicker though. 



Edited by MtB
Add the missing letter.
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⁹The best way to keep it in gear is to set it up correctly. Weights, clamps and hammers are bodging it.


The model J ( and K and L) is meant to be held in gear by the thrust from the propeller.

There is a huge (MJ 2 1/2 and v pricy) deep groove thrust bearing hidden in front of the ahead cone and another at the back of the box,  to take ahead and astern thrusts respectively. As MtB says the tail shaft,   intermediate shaft and gearbox output shaft should all be carefully aligned.  The whole lot needs to be able to slide to and fro about two inches as you change gear.


You will need a sliding intermediate plummer block on a traditional engine room set up and there should not be any thrust bearing except the ones in the gearbox.


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