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Webasto silencer


blackrose
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13 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

I fitted the one that came with my kit? Plastic job like this.

 

Webasto Air intake silencer / 9026725

I bought an aftermarket one of these on ebay for next to nothing (£4.50?) for my Eberspacher  (it was advertised as Webasto/Eberspacher). Easy to fit and reasonably effective at taking the intake "roar" Doesn't stop the dosing pump's rythmic clunking mind you!

 

When you say it goes quieter after about an hour and then gets noisy again, that's it starting to cycle between high and low power which is what can coke them up and kill them according to Eberspacher's findings from their investigation into early failures. Conclusion was it's better to work it hard and turn it off between heating demands whenever possible. My roomstat is set to full to avoid it contributing to this short cycling effect. (Webasto's new Evo model is supposed to improve this issue). 

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Posted (edited)
31 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

 

 

When you say it goes quieter after about an hour and then gets noisy again, that's it starting to cycle between high and low power which is what can coke them up and kill them according to Eberspacher's findings from their investigation into early failures. Conclusion was it's better to work it hard and turn it off between heating demands whenever possible. My roomstat is set to full to avoid it contributing to this short cycling effect. (Webasto's new Evo model is supposed to improve this issue). 

 

I'm not sure why it's cycling between high and low power so much. I added a 1.6kW Kuranda hot air blower to the C/H system to get the overall output up to about 5kW to match the boiler output. Perhaps once the calorifier is hot it's sending hot water back to the boiler and causing it to cycle down.  But my C/H plumbing system is similar to one of the options shown in the Thermotp C installation manual, except that my calorifier is plumbed in with 22mm pipe.

 

Probably a stupid question, but Is there any way to install a gate valve into a plastic pipe without draining down the system? 

 

image.png.b63a4fe00ea3696297bf45a6020e6de4.png

Edited by blackrose
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  • 4 weeks later...

I bought another refurbished Webasto for £350, ripped the noisy one out and fitted the "new" one today. Problems solved. It runs very quietly even without the exhaust silencer and it doesn't cycle up and down. All rads, calorifier and fan heater are hot.

 

I obviously bought a duff refurb unit the first time which is always the chance one takes on these ebay units. I'll take it apart at some point, find out what's wrong with it, fix it and keep it as a spare. The new one came with a 6 month warranty (for what its worth) and the guy who sold it to me ensures me it's a good one and has been properly serviced.

 

Edit: spoke too soon. Two of my 4 rads (rads 2 & 3) get hot at startup and stay hot for about an hour, but then they seem to shut down. The flow pipes to these rads stay hot but the rads themselves become only warm. Rad 4 stays hot. I guess the thermostatic radiator valves on 2 and 3 must be faulty? The CH system hasn't really been used for 12 years.

Edited by blackrose
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3 hours ago, blackrose said:

I bought another refurbished Webasto for £350, ripped the noisy one out and fitted the "new" one today. Problems solved. It runs very quietly even without the exhaust silencer and it doesn't cycle up and down. All rads, calorifier and fan heater are hot.

 

I obviously bought a duff refurb unit the first time which is always the chance one takes on these ebay units. I'll take it apart at some point, find out what's wrong with it, fix it and keep it as a spare. The new one came with a 6 month warranty (for what its worth) and the guy who sold it to me ensures me it's a good one and has been properly serviced.

 

Edit: spoke too soon. Two of my 4 rads (rads 2 & 3) get hot at startup and stay hot for about an hour, but then they seem to shut down. The flow pipes to these rads stay hot but the rads themselves become only warm. Rad 4 stays hot. I guess the thermostatic radiator valves on 2 and 3 must be faulty? The CH system hasn't really been used for 12 years.

Maybe the thermostatic valves are set too cool, try turning them up, or better still remove them.

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18 minutes ago, Chewbacka said:

Maybe the thermostatic valves are set too cool, try turning them up, or better still remove them.

 

They were turned up as high as they could go. I tried turning them off and back up again but it didn't help.. 

 

I don't really need these valves. Can I just replace them with some sort of right angled coupling? Just looking on Screwfix - do I need to replace the lockshield at the other end of the rad too, or would I just replace the mixing valve with another one of these? What does a lockshield do anyway?

 

https://www.toolstation.com/drayton-angled-lockshield-with-white-cap/p17903

 

Can't figure out what sort of connectors I need. Would these work or should I get them without the isolator valve to keep them open bore?

 

https://www.toolstation.com/service-valve-angle/p61780?store=OG&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=s_dc&pcrid=515847200312&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrMWUlv7y8wIV4u3mCh3oqw8zEAQYByABEgJxufD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Or these and take the compression nuts off?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/flomasta-compression-equal-90-elbow-15mm/33526?tc=JT6&ds_kid=92700055281954514&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5ICS-__y8wIVDpftCh2ehArLEAQYBiABEgL5OvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Why do my valves say 22? The vertical pipe is definitely 15mm.

 

IMG_20211030_213742.jpg

Edited by blackrose
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Unscrew the black ring below the valve head and remove the head, this should cause the valve to defalt to fully open.

once done you could also pull the pin thats exposed up gently to check its fully open.

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1 hour ago, Loddon said:

Unscrew the black ring below the valve head and remove the head, this should cause the valve to defalt to fully open.

once done you could also pull the pin thats exposed up gently to check its fully open.

 

Thanks. I didn't realise the head came off so easily. I tried gently pulling the pin up with a pair of pliers but it's not moving. 

 

If something inside the valve is stuck down or is being activated when the water gets hot, removing the head won't help will it?

 

Do I need to replace the valve with a plain right angled connector?

 

IMG_20211030_223335.jpg

Edited by blackrose
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I've not seen one stuck internally, normally if the pin is up it's open.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/chrome-angled-radiator-valve-15mm-x/33920

Should do the job, sometimes the TRV is a slightly different size so the pipework may not line up.

At that price it's worth changing both ends in case the other end has a blockage and while your about it take the rad off and flush it through with a hose.

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Thanks. I'm just testing the system again with all the thermostatic heads removed. Hopefully I won't need to drain down the system and change the connectors.

 

It's a complete mistake installing these diesel heaters with thermostatic valves on the radiators isn't it? The last thing you want us the rads shutting down, sending hot water back to the heater so that it cycles down and cokes up. I wonder why some boat fitters and heating installers don't know that?

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2 hours ago, blackrose said:

It's a complete mistake installing these diesel heaters with thermostatic valves on the radiators isn't it?

According to the manual it is.

However my system has TRVs on the front two rads but not on the other two. Which means the ones near the stove sensibly  shut down a bit when the stove is on.

Another foible on my system is that the feed and return to the rads are connected at the far end of the system this means there is 50m of 22mm copper pipe up one side and down the other then back in a loop radiating heat even if all the rads are off.

However it's been working for 9 years now with no problems and 20 years before that being driven by a drip feed boiler.

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16 hours ago, blackrose said:

 

I don't really need these valves. Can I just replace them with some sort of right angled coupling? Just looking on Screwfix - do I need to replace the lockshield at the other end of the rad too, or would I just replace the mixing valve with another one of these? What does a lockshield do anyway?

 

As long as there is a bit of flexibility in the pipework you should be able to replace the existing thermostatic and lockshield valves with new right angle radiator or lockshield valves.

Have you checked that the lockshield valves are fully open? In a domestic setting you would start of with all the valves fully open (and the removable heads off any thermostatic valves) then close the lockshield valves a bit little by little working away from the boiler, until there is a reasonably even distribution of heat between all the radiators. You can then use the thermostatic or manual valves on the other end of the radiators to turn down individual radiators. You can do the same on the boat, but given the smaller and usually connected spaces compared with a house you may not need to bother.

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My system is working properly now with the radiator valves removed. Rads stay hot and the heater doesn't cycle as much. 

 

Thanks for the help. I didn't know the thermostatic heads could be removed. At least I don't need to drain down the system and replace anything.

  • Greenie 1
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