Fuel lift pump leaking diesel

[jhodgski]

I've been advised to buy a new gasket to repair the (quite heavy) fuel leak on my lift pump.

 

Just wanted to double-check on here that that seems like good advice?

 

My alternative, which turns out not to be that much more expensive, is to buy a new lift pump with gasket.

 

Thanks,

Jim

[Alan de Enfield]

 

I'm a bit 'odd' (I'm told) but I would buy a replacement (complete) fit it and then service and replace necessary parts on the old pump and keep it in the JIC box

 

 

*** JIC = Just In Case (next time it happens you are miles away from anywhere and need a new pump like NOW !)

[MoominPapa]

A fuel leak is more likely to be the diaphragm, I'd have thought. Suggest replacing both (or all three, there may be two diaphragms.

 

MP.

[Tracy D'arth]

Come on Jim, give us something to go on. What engine? Mechanical or electric pump? Which gasket? Photo?

 

If its an AC type mechanical pump you can buy a repair kit. If its leaking fuel it is more likely the diaphragm that is split, the gasket only keeps oil in the engine.

[Tony Brooks]

20 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Come on Jim, give us something to go on. What engine? Mechanical or electric pump? Which gasket? Photo?

 

If its an AC type mechanical pump you can buy a repair kit. If its leaking fuel it is more likely the diaphragm that is split, the gasket only keeps oil in the engine.

 

Yes you can but you have to hope the valves are not swaged in place, I've not had much luck with those. Personally I would go for a new unit or if it was just the diaphragm I'd replace  that and leave the valves alone.

 

I agree we need to know what engine etc because if he has a BMC he stands a good chance of ruining either an old or new pump unless he knows the technique for getting it in properly.

 

If it is leaking from around any joints in the body have you tried tightening the screws holding the parts together/.

[Tracy D'arth]

2 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Yes you can but you have to hope the valves are not swaged in place, I've not had much luck with those. Personally I would go for a new unit or if it was just the diaphragm I'd replace  that and leave the valves alone.

 

I agree we need to know what engine etc because if he has a BMC he stands a good chance of ruining either an old or new pump unless he knows the technique for getting it in properly.

 

If it is leaking from around any joints in the body have you tried tightening the screws holding the parts together/.

Agreed, leave peened in valves unless they are damaged. I have changed them successfully but its a faff.

 

My crystal ball is a bit cloudy these days so I ask the questions. Why are posters so reluctant to give details?

[Tony Brooks]

Just now, Tracy D'arth said:

Agreed, leave peened in valves unless they are damaged. I have changed them successfully but its a faff.

 

My crystal ball is a bit cloudy these days so I ask the questions. Why are posters so reluctant to give details?

 

Because:-

 

1. They think we have nothing better to do than catalogue and remember all their past posts that just might give a clue.

 

2. They don't think beyond their immediate need.

 

3. they think boats are like cars where the parts across a whole range of makes and models are pretty much similar.

 

4. They have no idea about how important such details are if they want a decent and more likely correct answer.

 

I am also getting jarred off with the lack of details, especially when they are specifically asked for them and they decline to reply. I also get fed up with being presented with a diagnosis that may or may not be correct and no symptoms or photos to back it up.

 

<grump off>

 

 

[Tracy D'arth]

I wonder if he will bother finding a grease nipple either? <Cynicism off>

[jhodgski]

49 minutes ago, Tracy D&#x27;arth said:

I wonder if he will bother finding a grease nipple either? <Cynicism off>

I'm still here actually.

 

I'm surprised that me omitting to mention the engine model has created such consternation / those type of responses. I didn't expect the details of the engine would be so important as I thought it would be a generic question, based on the (quite possibly incorrect) presumption that all lift pumps probably work in the same way.

 

It's a BMC 1.5. I'll buy a new pump and gasket and cross my fingers when fitting it. Wouldn't want to risk any more upset by asking for fitting advice in the wrong way again...

1 hour ago, MoominPapa said:

A fuel leak is more likely to be the diaphragm, I'd have thought. Suggest replacing both (or all three, there may be two diaphragms.

 

MP.

Thank you.

[Tracy D'arth]

13 minutes ago, jhodgski said:

I'm still here actually.

 

I'm surprised that me omitting to mention the engine model has created such consternation / those type of responses. I didn't expect the details of the engine would be so important as I thought it would be a generic question, based on the (quite possibly incorrect) presumption that all lift pumps probably work in the same way.

 

It's a BMC 1.5. I'll buy a new pump and gasket and cross my fingers when fitting it. Wouldn't want to risk any more upset by asking for fitting advice in the wrong way again...

Thank you.

When fitting a lift pump to the 1.5 BMC you have to make certain that the operating arm is NOT behind the cam shaft that drives it but on the outside.

 Put the pump into the hole with the arm inclined UPWARDS. Do NOT put it in with the pump body horizontal as it will be when fitted.

Edited April 29, 2021 by Tracy D'arth

[jhodgski]

3 minutes ago, Tracy D&#x27;arth said:

When fitting a lift pump to the 1.5 BMC you have to make certain that the operating arm is NOT behind the cam shaft that drives it but on the outside.

 Put the pump into the hole with the arm inclined UPWARDS. Do NOT put it in with the pump body horizontal as it will be when fitted.

OK, thanks.

[Tony Brooks]

10 minutes ago, jhodgski said:

I'm still here actually.

 

I'm surprised that me omitting to mention the engine model has created such consternation / those type of responses. I didn't expect the details of the engine would be so important as I thought it would be a generic question, based on the (quite possibly incorrect) presumption that all lift pumps probably work in the same way.

 

It's a BMC 1.5. I'll buy a new pump and gasket and cross my fingers when fitting it. Wouldn't want to risk any more upset by asking for fitting advice in the wrong way again...

Thank you.

 

Right. On those engines it is all too easy to get the hooked pump operating lever on the wrong side of the camshaft. If you have never seen the pump out you will understand when you do.

 

When you replace it just bout put the end of the elver through the hole in the block and slide the tip up the inside of the block until you can push the pump onto the mounting studs. You will have to push against the spring pressure to get the pump against the block but if you can't get it flush by hand take it out and try again. It is fine to do the final pull up with the nuts but make sure you can push it flush by hand first.

 

Unfortunately not all lift pumps work  the same way and the designs of the operating mechanisms vary considerable. Some you can just put it the studs and tighten up, but not yours. As Tracy said there are electric ones as well. There are even variations of the design for those that fit BMC 1.5s.

 

 

[jhodgski]

10 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Right. On those engines it is all too easy to get the hooked pump operating lever on the wrong side of the camshaft. If you have never seen the pump out you will understand when you do.

 

When you replace it just bout put the end of the elver through the hole in the block and slide the tip up the inside of the block until you can push the pump onto the mounting studs. You will have to push against the spring pressure to get the pump against the block but if you can't get it flush by hand take it out and try again. It is fine to do the final pull up with the nuts but make sure you can push it flush by hand first.

 

Unfortunately not all lift pumps work  the same way and the designs of the operating mechanisms vary considerable. Some you can just put it the studs and tighten up, but not yours. As Tracy said there are electric ones as well. There are even variations of the design for those that fit BMC 1.5s.

 

 

OK, thanks. I may actually go for the repair kit - https://www.asap-supplies.com/products/repair-kit-for-fuel-lift-pumps-with-80mm-diaphragm-6-screw-top-199042 - and save myself £20. Just need to check first that it's the right one...

[Tony Brooks]

40 minutes ago, jhodgski said:

OK, thanks. I may actually go for the repair kit - https://www.asap-supplies.com/products/repair-kit-for-fuel-lift-pumps-with-80mm-diaphragm-6-screw-top-199042 - and save myself £20. Just need to check first that it's the right one...

 

The small lift pump fitted to the air cooled Listers also has 6 screws but I think those are more like 50mm diameter so I think that one will be correct.

 

If the valves are held in by two screws and a clip then they are easy o change, if the pump body has been dented to hold them in please don't touch them

[Tracy D'arth]

If its the original type of pump 80mm sounds right. Newer ones tend to be smaller.

[ditchcrawler]

Unfortunately lots of people look on boats like the do cars considering them all mass produced and the same, whereas if fact they are all  individually made and often ones made by the same company vary from one to another. 

[Tony Brooks]

1 hour ago, Tracy D&#x27;arth said:

If its the original type of pump 80mm sounds right. Newer ones tend to be smaller.

 

3 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Unfortunately lots of people look on boats like the do cars considering them all mass produced and the same, whereas if fact they are all  individually made and often ones made by the same company vary from one to another. 

 

Which is why photos help.