Which paint to use?

[cuthound]

On 22/04/2021 at 08:48, Phoenix_V said:

We use that. The hull was epoxy painted from new and I needed something for touch up above the waterline, also wanted to have black rather than the grey which epoxy ends up at. Didn't want to put bitumen on top of epoxy so put a coat of pioneer on - nice semi gloss finish - easy to overcoat as it sticks to itself and needs little preparation and dries quickly when touching up.

 

How do you remove the SML paint when the time comes for re-blacking the 2 pack, or can another coat of 2 pack go over the SML paint with just a quick sanding?

[Phoenix_V]

4 hours ago, cuthound said:

 

How do you remove the SML paint when the time comes for re-blacking the 2 pack, or can another coat of 2 pack go over the SML paint with just a quick sanding?

I think that is the point I was trying to make but badly. Below the waterline we clean any scrapes or other mishaps back to bare metal and recoat with epoxy (and also antifoul but that is a whole set of other issues) we don't use Pioneer. Between waterline and strake there are several coats of Pioneer (one each time we drydock) on top of the epoxy. Anything that scrapes through that to bare metal  may be touched up with ordinary primer if it's lucky and then pioneer, or just pioneer.  Apart from scrapes there is little deterioration on that surface which is vertical and dry most of the time so that works fine. Above the strake as seen in the photos there is 2 pack polyurethene on top of epoxy as is the cabin. The cabin top has had extra coats of poly at different times since the original painting but it and the deck are now (14 years from the original paint) starting to show signs of loss of adhesion of the base epoxy as water can stand here. I shall put another coat on this summer ( if I am allowed out )  to try and keep it going otherwise it will be back to bare metal but I am putting that off as long as possible. I am a messy painter and mixing 2 pack is a nuisance but I am happier with it than conventional paints and it does dry reasonably quickly. The area that we have used Pioneer on is where most scrapes occur and is so easy to touch up. The Green bit isn't but I just touch up with ordinary acrylic and overcoat the whole lot with 2 pack poly when we dry dock - it doesn't seem to mind. Incidentally the SML acrylics are reasonably quick dry. Hope that makes sense!

 

[Phoenix_V]

I posted this a while ago it is a piece cut from our roof and left out in the garden, there are 2 coats of epoxy and one poly all Jotun, the roof had been constructed from preprimed steel but I suspect not totally devoid of rust, rust is now starting to creep under the paint and it is lifting at the edges and a couple of spots in the middle, on the actual roof regular recoats seem to have kept deterioiration at bay so I am hoping for a few more years. Incidentally the foam insulation seems to be sticking better than the paint, it was put straight onto the primed steel

 

 

 

[Tam & Di]

On 23/04/2021 at 17:18, Phoenix_V said:

I posted this a while ago it is a piece cut from our roof and left out in the garden, there are 2 coats of epoxy and one poly all Jotun

 

When we bought our barge out of trade in Netherlands we travelled backwards and forwards a few times between Harwich and The Hook. We operated small coastal barges at the time and asked the Purser what paint they used on their decks - he told us it was Jotun Henry Clarke deck paint, and could be applied in damp salty conditions. We tried it and were very impressed, and subsequently used other Jotun products with equal success.

 

Tam

[Phoenix_V]

41 minutes ago, Tam & Di said:

 

When we bought our barge out of trade in Netherlands we travelled backwards and forwards a few times between Harwich and The Hook. We operated small coastal barges at the time and asked the Purser what paint they used on their decks - he told us it was Jotun Henry Clarke deck paint, and could be applied in damp salty conditions. We tried it and were very impressed, and subsequently used other Jotun products with equal success.

 

Tam

Yes it may not have been that clear from my posting that we have been very pleased with the paint, worth pointing out that piece has unprotected edges, probably not the best prep and been left outside in the rain for 13 years

[LadyG]

Painting a boat yourself, is a big learning experience, I found that most foam rollers were variable, and in the end I did find some that worked best with the paint I used I four inch rolled the primer, brushing in to corners. The undercoat is where you set up your finish, two or three coats is likely, 

Lots and lots of coats, light sanding, tack cloth. There is a chart online which tells you dew point /paint point, so on a summer day, you can paint for maybe eight hours, but probsbly not in spring or autumn.

If you want a professional looking job you probably need  a proper paint shed, and a professional painter, I would never be able to do a good job like Magpie, even if I had all the tools, unlimited budget, temp controlled shed, and four summer months. The signwriting is a different level to 'painting'.

I wanted the paint to be applied at 'room temperature', see the tin, and kept paint stored at that temp.

Use paint buckets , do not contaminate your 2.5 l tin. Use clingfilm if leaving overnight, and for paintbrushes.

Modern tins will buckle if you try hammering a lid back on, if storing paint in the tin, seal with gaffer tape. Modern tins will leak if you hammer on the lid and turn it upside down.

I dont thin modern coatings.

Top quality paints will cost more than house paints and will contain more pigment, buy a few proper paint stirrer sticks, stir carefully, get in to the corners of the tin.

Personally I don't get hung up on particular colouring. I gave up on coachlines even though I had lines already on parts of the boat, I ran out of time.

Learn your techniques on the gunwales, I use roller and tip off with brush, I also brush squares, left to right, up and down, tipping off lightly. See John Bernard on you tube,.

You need to be patient when you get to the topcoat, if in a hurry, do bits no one will see!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 25, 2021 by LadyG

[Tam & Di]

If I'm putting a lid back on I place it correctly, then put a piece of wood/ply on it and press down on that. If you hammer the lid itself you are only hitting in one place and it will distort.

 

Tam

[David Mack]

5 hours ago, Tam & Di said:

If I'm putting a lid back on I place it correctly, then put a piece of wood/ply on it and press down on that. If you hammer the lid itself you are only hitting in one place and it will distort.

 

Tam

I find that simply pushing down firmly on the lid is enough, first on one side and then at a couple of other places round the tin. Then invert the tin so paint covers and seals the tin/lid joint then turn it the right way up again.

No need for gaffer tape, which is unlikely to be a complete airtight seal anyway.