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Common Rail


DieselDuck

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Just wondering if this is getting into our NB`s yet, maybe on the

latest newbuilds or new replacement engines. ( common rail is

the latest big thing in the Auto world for Diesel Engines, you may

well have it on your own vehicle). Just tooled up with some kit to

deal with these and see it is used now on a lot of `marine` stuff,

(engines as big as house`s!!!)

So, anyone seen or got one in their NB? (no, not a house size one).

 

Just curious.

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Just wondering if this is getting into our NB`s yet, maybe on the

latest newbuilds or new replacement engines. ( common rail is

the latest big thing in the Auto world for Diesel Engines, you may

well have it on your own vehicle). Just tooled up with some kit to

deal with these and see it is used now on a lot of `marine` stuff,

(engines as big as house`s!!!)

So, anyone seen or got one in their NB? (no, not a house size one).

 

Just curious.

 

The inland waterways engine market is a bit of an oddity most of the engines being simply marinised versions of industrial engines, these by there nature tend to be relatively primitive things based on older designs.

 

Some of the newer Barrus engines are a bit more modern but still aren't cutting edge.

 

I think some of the most modern offerings I have seen were VW units but I don't know of any ever actually being fitted into boats.

 

Like most things in this market price rules supreme on what is popular or unpopular. :smiley_offtopic:

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The inland waterways engine market is a bit of an oddity most of the engines being simply marinised versions of industrial engines, these by there nature tend to be relatively primitive things based on older designs.

 

Primitive has some benefits. My boat engine developed a nasty leak on the gearbox end crankshaft oil seal after getting a huge amount of plastic and cloth on the prop. Took about 4 hrs to strip down, replace the oil seal and get it back together again. No manual, just look and see and work methodically through the process having done stuff on cars in the 1980's. However, I would not want to try and attempt to take my modern diesel car engine apart as they are just so much more complex these days.

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That's what they will tell us, but more a question of 'added value'.

I honestly have no idea, but modern electronically fuelled common rail diesels are a far more civilised piece of kit than the old mechanical jobs. Cleaner, smoother, more efficient and economical and all around better. I can see no way that new industrial engines even will escape EU emissions regs much longer, so brace yourself, the electronic fly-by-wire diesel is coming.

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The 'powers that be' concerned with sea boats will be very reluctant to allow any diesel engine that needs electrical power to keep it going.

I used to think that John, and was surprised to find my Vetus had an electric fuel pump! I have heard it said that they can still run without the pump, and be gravity fed, but I find that a little odd. Stranger things have happened though.

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The 'powers that be' concerned with sea boats will be very reluctant to allow any diesel engine that needs electrical power to keep it going.

 

 

Don't bank on it.

 

At the Last London boat show I asked the bods on the Volvo stand at what battery voltage their engine would shut down and how long after alternator failure it would run for (assuming a fair battery). This was met by blank looks. The someone else was summoned and I was told it would probably work down to five volts - not would, but probably - and it would eventually shut down.

 

Armed with this info I then wrote to the RYA about them taking on the Boater's Electrical courses. Their initial response is that there is no proven danger from electrical failure. They the agreed to put my proposals before their training committee but have not deemed to come back.

 

I know the RYA are not the MCA, but I very much doubt the implications has dawned on any of them yet. Especially if the ECU registers a fault and the refuses to start until the fault has been cleared (or will only run on very reduced power) because that will negate any actions involving emergency parallelling switches or jump leads.

 

Tony Brooks

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Don't bank on it.

 

At the Last London boat show I asked the bods on the Volvo stand at what battery voltage their engine would shut down and how long after alternator failure it would run for (assuming a fair battery). This was met by blank looks. The someone else was summoned and I was told it would probably work down to five volts - not would, but probably - and it would eventually shut down.

 

Tony Brooks

 

 

Car ECU's typically drop out at between 5 and 6v. They have to work this low because, when cranking, the battery voltage of course will drop to around 9v.

 

My Isuzu nb diesel has an electric fuel pump, so no juice, no run.

 

Chris

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Car ECU's typically drop out at between 5 and 6v. They have to work this low because, when cranking, the battery voltage of course will drop to around 9v.

 

My Isuzu nb diesel has an electric fuel pump, so no juice, no run.

 

Chris

Isuzu as well as Vetus? Very interesting. A long way from my last engine which could be hand cranked, the alternator was an add on, and it didn't need heaters to start in the depth of winter. Mind you it was only small, and aimed really at being a yact auxilliary, but had found its way into an NB.

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Just wait 'til your common rail engine goes wrong. About £150 for ONE injector, so my local diesel wizz kid tells me, cf £25 for rebuilt standard injector. They're also very fussy about fuel, a drop of water quickly ruins an injector running at over 20,000 psi ( which common rails do) & won't run on biodiesel or so I'm told. I'll stick with the old technology until I'm forced to change. And electronics and water don't mix.

 

I'm conviced it won't be long before the next ice age scare starts and we'll all be encouraged to increase our carbon footprint. :smiley_offtopic:

 

Steve

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