DieselDuck

Just wondering if this is getting into our NB`s yet, maybe on the latest newbuilds or new replacement engines. ( common rail is the latest big thing in the Auto world for Diesel Engines, you may well have it on your own vehicle). Just tooled up with some kit to deal with these and see it is used now on a lot of `marine` stuff, (engines as big as house`s!!!) So, anyone seen or got one in their NB? (no, not a house size one). Just curious.

On a reasonably healthy engine, you should feel a SLIGHT rythmic chuffing from the breather pipe with maybe a SLIGHT mist of blue smoke, (steam may be evident slightly as engine warms), rising to a SMALL amount of continuous pressure as rev`s increase. NO chuffing or pressure would indicate a blocked breather, probably where the hose come out of the engine, (oil separator), and any more pressure than above would mean excess crankcase pressure, (pistons, rings or bores). If you do let the engine rev to full throttle, (layman`s term), from cold at start-up, as I have said, you may have suffered a broken ring(s). Another give-away for a blocked breather is oil seeping from gaskets/seals all over the engine, as even a small amount of pressure has to get out somewhere.

Seems the manufacturer is happy to use this generic term as a good indicator for the gadget that makes it go faster (do you `electrolux` your carpet).

I think you mean `Maximum fuelling`. Rotary & Jerk Pumps stop in the max. fuel position ready for the next start, this has no connection with throttle position. As the engine starts the hydraulic or pnuematic governor takes over to reduce speed to where the throttle has been set or to idle. Very basically the throttle restricts the governor to the desired speed, it then adjusts fuelling for varying load as necessary keeping the same revs. As to the manual extract, OK, but I feel that it does indicate that although you start with full throttle, it says close throttle when engine fires, which means to me that the engine should not be allowed to let the rev`s climb to Max. No Load Speed untill you close the throttle!

Full throttle starting on a cold engine is a sure way to bust a ring or two!!!

Could also try a `proper` model/hobby shop, if they don`t have any in stock, ask to look in the Perkins or MacGregor catalogue, they can supply copper sheet in varying thicness at a more managable size. The `Live Steam` model boys use this stuff!

Now you have posted pics, refer to my answer in your thread in for sale/wanted. That is the pump on say a `90 Sierra turbo derv. Did me time/Dagenham Tour/ Daventry Training on `em when they were in current production. You will have to disturb cambelt to access the pump mounting bolt on the right of the pump (hidden under cambelt cover in pic), so get a cambelt/pulley kit for same vehicle, you also get the FIP belt in kit as well. Timing pin kit will be required to fit this lot, but have seen kits cheap as 15 quid in places. but worth doin right, dont want pistons kissin valves etc!

Try your local Motor Factor. If pump is driven by cambelt, ask for pump on say a `90 Escort Van 1.8D, if its driven by an outside belt, (alternator belt), then ask for a `90 Sierra 1.8TD Pump. In either case, you would be advised to change the cambelt as well as it has to be moved for access and may well be contaminated from your leaking coolant.

Have checked previous threads, but no answer to this. When having hull blacked by boatyard, what would you expect to get covered? I know that doing the bottom is rather pointless, but how far down from the rubbing strake and below the waterline would you expect? I did`nt think an inch below the waterline seemed enough to warrent what I was charged as it was supposed to be dry docked! Could have gone down that far myself on the canal with a couple of people on the other side of boat! Before I say anything thought I`d sound out you guys, don`t want to put me foot in it as yard is also mooring.

Try a search for suppliers of Exol Lubricants, they do a 10/40 & 15/40 CC in their `Classic` range. Most Independant Oil Suppliers can have oil made to your specs if you require and they still don`t come out as expensive as modern `off the shelf` products. If you don`t want 25 litres, most NB engines seem to require these low spec oils, why not get together with a few local boaters and go for what you need. I feel I can`t quote prices so as not to tread on retailers toes, but as I said above, 5 litres each between 5 people would be about 10 - 12 each inc VAT if bought in this way. I type too slowly, but alans link looks the biz! Would`nt say it was dear considering it`s going in yer engine for 200 hrs or a year or so! and demand for this spec oil is low in comparison for the manufacturers to make loads.

Getting back to the original question on oil, the viscosity is not the main issue. You could use the 15/40 in summer and the 10/40 in winter if you wished. However, what is more important is the API classifcation, CC, CD, CE etc. You should use the oil with an SAE Grade in your areas temperature range, usually shown in the engines manual, but with narrowboat engines, which generally run at idle or not much above it, the API spec becomes more important. This is the amount of additives in the oil which are usually too agressive in modern oils or do not work correctly because they require the higher running temperatures of high speed diesel engines found in automotive use, which leads to the bore glazing refered to. I myself have found it a little difficult to find a `low spec` oil suitable for NB Engine use, unless you buy the Engine manufacturers packaged oil, as most oils sold are for modern cars/trucks. A good independant oil supplier will be able to supply low spec oil at a good price, but usually only in 20 - 25 litre quantities. I have a Barrus Shire built in 1999, but this requires a 10/40 CC oil. Not exactly off the shelf stuff from Halfords, but not impossible to source. I use SP Lubricants in Wimborne, Dorset myself.