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Showing results for tags 'chimney'.
Found 14 results
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Hi all. I am new to boating as a live aboard and I had my first winter onboard 2022-2023. I have just had my cratch cover replaced as it had preexisting holes burned through it by embers from the chimney. These got progressively worse / there were more after my first winter. How do I stop this from happening again? The fitters reckon this is a common problem so I hoped the hive mind would be able to recommend things that I can do. Thanks for your help in advance. 😊
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Can anyone recommend someone who can measure up and manufacture a single skin 4 inch flue, either black painted steel or stainless? Reasonable radius from Autherley junction at the bottom of the Shroppie preferred so they can get to me to measure up, otherwise somewhere there's water in the cut if I need to go to them! Thanks in advance.
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Hi I'm currently fitting a Morso chimney deck Plate supplied with the with the purpose made Morse chimney system (part number 62908511). The instructions say "Locating the deck plate - Use a suitable non silicon based water tight sealant on the deck of the craft before locating the deck plate." most sealants for simiIar situations I seem to find are silicone based. What would be peoples suggestions??, I suspect this will not get very hot as is an insulated system. I have used Sikaflex®-EBT in other setting do you think this is OK for this job? I thought i had seen this question in a previous topic but I failed to find it when searching so apologies if already covered previously thanks Keith
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Hi All, I've asked a few people about this already and am getting conflicting opinions, so thought I'd come here for a few more!! Last year my 12" double skinned chimney was just slotted over the collar, but I had a right mess down the side of the boat. I've now bought a taller one (in the hope of getting a better draw), but am wondering how best to attach it? I'll be filling the void in the chimey, probably with heat proof expanding foam or rockwool. But how to I actually fix the chimney in place? Some people say it should just slot onto the collar, others are saying fire cement or similar should be used. Thanks
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Stove chimney extension corroded on to collar
Chribley posted a topic in Boat Building & Maintenance
I've bought a 50' replica Thames stemhead barge about a month ago. The stove, a Morso Squirrel 1410, was working fine at first and the whole boat got really hot, but now it won't get more than warm, even with the ash pan air valve wide open. In fact, even with the ash pan door open it doesn't really heat up like it did before. I think the flue needs investigation for blockages and cleaning, but I can't get the stainless steel extension off the collar on the roof. It's a custom made extension and I think should just lift off, but something - corrosion? tar? - has glued it solid. I tried tapping it with a hammer round the base but only managed to make some dents in the otherwise smooth and shiny steel! My next thought was to heat it up vigorously with a blowlamp round the base, but before I do I'd appreciate any thoughts that might save me from doing any more damage. -
Hi, I have a problem with my chimney and wondered if anyone else had the same problem. It's a wide-beam (well, 11ft) and we have a squirrel stove. We burn mixed fuel - wood and coal - but I have noticed that particularly in the last few months there has been excessive smoke coming from the chimney output on the roof. This is causing some problems in terms of neighbours etc, and it sometimes wafts through our vents/windows - but also is just a little worrying. Could there be something vital in our chimney that has disintegrated? We notice this most when we have just lit the fire - as could be expected - but to be honest it doesn't really settle down. Just think white smoke. Does anyone have any idea what this could be? Thanks so much as always
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Hello Everyone! I have a Morso Squirrel multi-fuel stove installed on my narrowboat. The chimney is attached to the stove top plate as opposed to the back plate. There is some light rust on the collar where the chimney meets the top plate and when I last lit the fire some smoke started leaking from around the collar joint. Does anyone have a recommendation about what to use to seal around the collar? I tried some stove cement but that cracked and flaked off as soon as the stove heated up… Thanks - Davo
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Hi I own a Liverpool Boat Company narrowboat - A 56ft Sandpiper and I need help locating a replacement chimney. As many people know, Liverpool Boat chimneys are not any standard size. Previously I have bought one in 2007 from LimeKiln Ltd of Wolverhampton, but they are no longer there. The circumference of the present chimney is 46cm (18 inches) -diameter 15cm - just under 6 inches - so not standard, and its height is 40cm (16 inches). Not looking for anything lavish or too expensive. Details of suppliers or makers would be welcomed. Mark
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Hello, I have just bought a narrow boat with a woodburner which needs repairing - the chimney is loose; it's attached to the collar, but the collar is not attached to the stove top. The whole thing can be lifted clear. I don't have any photos I'm afraid. I thought it was just a case of rejoining it with fire cement, but now I think it's a bigger job than I originally thought! I've tried googling to find out how to fix this, but with no joy. Any advice much appreciated :)
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Dear Friends, I am planning on replacing my existing stove with a stove from the Chilli Penguin range. The Flue collar on the stove itself is 5". All of the Chandlers I have spoken with only sell 4" or 4.5" flue pipe for inside the cabin. I have two questions really: a) Anyone got experience / opinions about using a 5" > 4.5" adapter and using a 4.5" flue pipe b ) Twin Wall is recommended by BSS 8511 but I think its overkill So Chilli Penguin offer a kit, for a very top price of £793!!! I think by using single wall can get the price down to £220. Speaking to experienced boat chandlers the opinion seems to be that BSS 8511 is really 'recommendations' only when it comes to single / twin wall flues and their relative distances to combustible surfaces. Been using Single wall 5" for two years without any issues. Only reason I cant now use 5" again for the new stove, is that the roof collars don't accept 5" flues (or at least I haven't managed to find any). Just spoken to a boat safety person (who issue the certificates). Frankly shocking how little they seem to know about BSS 8511 or even really any clear advise about how a stove flue / chimney should be constructed. Any advise would be really appreciated, read so many forums, spoken to so many people and reading BSS 8511 and not getting much clarity. many Thanks Stuart
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I know we have discussed CO before in connection with stoves etc. but just to tell a little story that happened to me. Over the last couple of days a smell (fuel) emitted from the stove whenever the doors were opened to refuel and the CO alarm showed a figure of about 20 ppm, the second CO alarm (just past its replace date) showed nothing. ( the second one will be replaced) The alarm always returned to zero quite quickly and the smell disappeared, the alarm remained at zero at all times with the stove doors closed. Yesterday the stove did not draw well, Not unduly worried but this morning, the smell and the alarm ( 20 ppm) returned before I opened the doors and had only opened the bottom vent to 'wake' the fire. It was zero when I got up. So out in the pouring rain, I got a boat pole and put it down the chimney/ flue, there was a partial blockage towards the top. I had as always checked and cleaned the chimney/flue before the first lighting this season (about a month ago) and have cleaned it since.
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Apologies for raising a topic that has possibly been often covered before but my forum search didn't help too much in relation to diesel fuelled stoves specifically. My Bubble diesel fuelled corner stove is a basic bit of kit with no sophisticated air /fuel mixture control to compensate for short flue or windy conditions. Currently it has typical boat flue/ chimney with a vane type cowl atop and it works reasonably well at high temperature settings but not so well at low settings. Snag is my boat is small and rarely has need of the high temp. settings. The main problem is of course the short flue/ chimney length and that gives problem of maintaining correct air/fuel ratio in anything other than a dead flat wind. There is talk of 'H' type cowl, vedette cowl, Rotor cowl, etc., etc. so many options but which is best suited for my application? Shall be grateful for comments.
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We swept ours this year in late Sept before lighting up in October , gave it a real good sweep with a stiff nee rigid chimney brush and took out the throat plate and replaced the fire bricks etc and checked seals . Now I wasnt intending to do it again until spring when the fire goes out but some opinon is we should do it again after 3 months and again before start of next winter ie twice a year . some facts 1. we are burning a combination of Anthracite ( clean burn ) and winter blaze ( eggs not such a clean burn ie not smokeless ) * 2. Stove is lit 24 /7 and with the exeption of 2-3 times for de ashing/going away , will remain lit until next spring 3. Stove is a Squirrel opinions please folks : * Reason for this is Anth stays in better but is expensive and does not burn so hot esp when low wind / draw . WB burns hotter and lights better and is quite a bit cheaper but also doesn't stay in as well .. Together they are superb solution
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hi everyone, I'm trying to find long Double skin chimney, ideally over 28" (28" would do too). The longest I was able to find were 24" but that would keep my flue just around 2m altogether, I would prefer it a little bit longer. Could anyone recommend a chandlery which stocks these? Thanks!
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