Dalslandia

looks like it is a C7 left made of othman bronze c7 is for semi and planing hull, p/D max 1,2 if it is not a E 13, but E13 have a max P/D of 0,85 a 22x22 is P/D 1.00

I was trying to post from home, Now ön the boat. What was i saying? You can over paint old paint, New will crackulate. Best to sand blast before firts time u use jotamastic, then it will stay on even in thick ice

Dean, if you send me an e-mail i can send some photos i have from the last dry dock visits dalslandia (at) tele2.se

I put on jotamastic in year? I don't remember when it was, we drydock every 2-or 3 years, and the onlything that have to be don is cleaning and then fix the places where the lock have been to close to the metal. I don't think I have to paint the whole hull in the next 10 or 15 year, or even 20, just patches. so I say minimum 20 year, maybe 30. in fresh water. Anodes is still a most, zink in saltwater, alu in mixed waters, and magnesium in sweet water.

Sand blast, then use Jotun Jotamastic, that will last 20 year, and you can drive in the ice and the paint will stay on. Jan

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bewolf/5034756907/

BSP I am sure it is bird dropping, that have been eating berry, but i guessthere is no berry yet, so stop feed the birds with berry :-)

I have been Reading this along thé canal today. 1 It is not diesel, 2. Not glykol 3. not brakefluid If it was brake fluid the brake pedal Will feel soft and spongie. It can be pollen or Sahara desert sand, dont laugh! That come down with rain water. Or red dirt from your shoes Diesel smell like diesel, glykol like sweet. Jan

A wild guess that you mean inch and not feet, oh sorry but it is so hard not to ... Jan

play up to 2% of shaft diameter, but max 2 mm (will be on a 100 mm shaft then)

I have 40 years, 33 as skipper, on a canal, probably 57000 locks, that's about 20000 hours. (+ some winters on carco ships) But humbely, all the experiance that sits like a feeling in the spine, how to teach other people? I have some times help from a marine canal pilot, (25 years as a pilot on a different canal,) and sometimes his son that know is working as first officer on a oil tanker in north see, that worked on my boat from he was 15 in the summers, I trust these guys, but what a terror it is to stand on the side, and not have the controls in my hands, very difficult not to interfere, better then stay on land, operating the locks... Jan

Start the date in the oil bar!

some if not all water pumps have a leak tell hole under the pump, check if it come there, or at the shaft., if you know it can be wrong don't go, take the belts off and feel on the pump shaft for play, bigger engines probably have replaceble bearings and sealings, on smaller engines you might need to replace the pump. the seal is often a spring loaded porselin like meterial, that ride on a flat surface on the impeller just little bigger in diameter then the shaft, then the greasy part is sealed with normal shaft seals, ( I don't remember the english name) Does it have a grease nipple?

I would not hessitate to use Jotun Jotamastic, get a good sand blaster and paint with jotun system, and you don't need to do any thing but small repair where you have scraped it, in 10-20 years, nothing better and cheep in the long run, the ice will not take the paint of I did this on my boat in 19?? oh it is long ago I don't remember the year., still only need a wash of and small repair from lock allergy Jan

I hade ones, it was midsummer day, (Big holliday in Sweden), a stock/logg 4-5 meter long 30-40 cm in diameter, sucked in infront of propeller over the prop shaft, going from side to side, was a bit tricky to get into the lock, then i had to feed out the logg with the propeller, not the best, but what to do. the reason for the 10-20% clearence isn't drift wood, but noise, if it goes to close to the hull it sounds like you have rats omboard, reason for that is the more or less stationary boundary layer of water, and the tip vortex hitting the hull. I think. I have a lot of noise from my prop, I think it is mostly from the small clearance but also from the blunt end of the keel/swim, will see if i can make a better end next time in the dry dock,

Black Rose, I have been without internet a couple of days, just read this last page, But one thing coming to my mind, your prop don't look to be "way" wrong, so if you don't get the rpm you should, and your gear ratio is what it is said to be, one thing remain, the REV COUNTER, they can be way off, you should have someone with a portable mechanical or optical to check yours, one way is to use a neon light at 50 Hz it will "stop" the crank (pulley) at 3000 rpm. With two markings 180 deg apart, you can also test it at 1500 rpm Or if you know your engine “max RPM WOT in neutral gear, you can make a course test. About prop tip clearance, as said 10% in minimum, some recommend 15 as minimum, and 20% as good. But what the Portuguese girls have, they have it in Portugal. After 3 attempts to post this it worked, now if I can edit it. Jan

With the info from op Blackrose boat, 57X12x2 and speed, power, gearing, the PropKing software say 17,8X12 at 2800 rpm 5,7kts/6,5mph An inverter, say 3 kW is 90% efficient, = 3,33 kW, the alternator(s) is maybe 70% = 4,76 kW = 6,4 HP So if we have 30 HP at the engine, thats 21% or 40 hp at the engine and we have a load of 16% that 16% will reduce rpm from 2000 to 1890, 21% will reduce the RPM to 1849 I don't design propellers for boats, but I do so for airplanes, same principle but with some significant differences, as Inn is free, say better to leave that for the pro's. But the propking soft seems to be good for a first cut. as always it is hard to calculate anything 100% correct first time, so changing/testing a few different props isn't uncommen. the more boats and engine with same data there is the easier to get it right first time, the same goes for airplane.

checking the nordic rules for privat and working boats under 15 meter. working boats 7cm2 per kW privat minimum 4500 mm2 (diam 75mm) or 4000x motor bay volum in cubic meter.

I was almost finish with a long post, when the electric power went out for a sec. ... power is a relative number, atleast rated power is, what we get at the propeller isn't the same as it says on the box the engine come in. and there is different stantard for testing engines. an alternator can take 4-5 hp at low load. airfilter 5% if it is not tested with it mounted. gearbox 3% shaft bearing 1,5% each exhaust system 8-10% on the Beta Marine info there is two curves, one is 80-85% of the other. this on the flywheel hot air in the engine compartment doesent help either. if we take BlackRose prop, at 2000 engine rpm and turn it 3000, 3/2^3 = 3,375 times more power neded. say it have 40 hp on the paper at 2K the 55HP on the paper is not enough obviusly, so it need to be de-pitched and or reduced in diameter. or blade area. It might be so the 55 hp is 45 +- some in reality.

Hi ---<--@ BAR is blade area ratio, blade area to the swept area, or the propeller disk, or where they serve drinks. Good reading http://www.hydrocompinc.com/knowledge/whitepapers/HC135-BladeAreaRatio.pdf

A Jet engine, have a constant flame just as a domestic heater oil fuel burner, and both need sparks to start, some jet engine have the spark igniter running more or less the whole time, to prevent flame out. it is not compression heat that make the fuel ignite on a jet engine. there is different jet fuels, kerosene based mostly, but some with petrol in it. Why Kerosene? diesel will do? It is because of the freezing point, it is -50 -60C up there.

The Needel might be free on its shaft? or clogged oil line into, or at the meter.

we still have the difference in hight in the engine, where it is cooling down, and a heat source in the calorifier, if it was rising in the calorifier coil it will be double effect. but this is theory. will crossing the hoses and making a loop or two on them help? we sure know a back valve will help. It will not be a bad idea to insulate the tubes or hoses with pipe insulation anyway, Was intersting to read about the cooling tank sizing in the Beta manual. I changed my rectangular tubes, that was welded to the outside of the hull some years ago to round SS tubes, that sits some distance from the hull, using the formula of 0,25 sq ft per HP, i now have 1,4 times the needed area around the tubes, and have not had any problem., calc show 2,5" OD tubes would do it, i have 3,5" OD Jan

But then as I see it, without really have seen it, if the coil in the calorifier is rising, i.e. the calorifier is standing, it will be even worse. thermaly speaking

When looking closely at the installation drawings and pictures, I see that the fitting out from engine is at the cyl head, and the return is at the return pipe from cooler tank via oil cooler, and that pipe goes to bottom of engine probably at bottom of circulation pump, hard to see. notis that this pipe goes in at a lower level then the crank case water jacket is at. Damn I was right again, I hate when that happen. Humbely Jan