Greedyheron

Worth checking out Hampshire trading standards website- go to b for boat. Last time I looked into this they were the ones who really understood the rcd and their site has some basic but useful information and they were quite helpful. They may be able to tell you if you would have any right to claim against the broker for example.

I looked at buying a boat without an rcd within the 5 year period- I didn't in the end but I did speak to a surveyor who assists with the rcd requirements. He told me that he could survey the boat to check whether it was compliant and advise on works needed to get it up to scratch. So that may be a possible route- depending on how much work needed doing -that might cost a fair bit though. I checked with an insurer at the time- they wouldn't insure a boat without rcd within the 5year period. I can't remember surveyors name now, he was really helpful though- somewhere in oxford I think but I guess there are likely a few surveyors about that can provide a similar service.

Thanks all- sounds like its about right then- although lime house is very cheap - I wonder if they use the same cards- would be worth a trip to collect some if so!

Hi everyone Just wandering what people are paying for electric at marinas at the moment. I'm at a BWML marina and am paying £14.90 for 100kwh. Is that about the same as other marinas? Seems kind of expensive for a business rate but then I haven't paid house rates for a long time so I've lost track. Thanks

It's probably worth you taking a look at apollo duck too- home of many boats for sale. They have boats all over the world and occasionally boats that are current or ex bars and restaurants - that way you may find something already kitted out to suit you- or at least part way there. I'd look but then I'll end up buying another boat , damn I'm probably going to look anyway now...

I've never yet worked out whether I'm amazingly good at valuing boats or whether the vendor has told the surveyor what I have offered and they have done me a favour in valuing the boat at that. It's always below asking price because I'm cheeky but I've got it spot on the surveyors valuation each time (this time we were obviously both missing a trick because the damn thing is a rust bucket- but that's another storey). I bought my first boat for about a third of the asking price, second got about 15% off, and once offered a cheeky 21k for a boat on at 38 and had it accepted subject to survey and me visting for a look but it had no rcd and was awfully put together so I kept my money (and bought the rust bucket instead, will I never learn!). Anything is worth only what you want to pay for it, offer whatever you think is right- it will either suit the vendor or it won't.

Could you find another boater to swap your wood for some diesel ? Shame for free wood to go to waste!

I can think of no where else that I would get such fast replies- thank you! Water is heated in calorifier at the moment- so immersion is off. My windows don't open so one less thing to worry about. Taps are now open- what are the chances I ill remember that when I turn the pump back on? Hopefully I'll remember! Right I'm off (cue volley of things I should have remembered but have left without doing!)

Last minute check- have I got this right? I'm away for a few days(leaving in about an hour) and its forecast to get below 0 for a couple of nights so as I now have plumbing and never really have had before( first shower on board in over 4 years of living aboard this weekend) I'm trying to do some basic frost protection. I have turned off the valve at the water tank , turned off the water pump and then opened sink and shower taps until water just dribbled out- the aim being to depressurise the system so if any ice forms it has somewhere to go- I think? Did then think to turn the shower bilge pump back on shortly before disaster struck. I'm going to leave the oil filled rad on low so the inside of the boat should stay above freezing- the back of the boat is covered (semi trad) and the engine bay is partly open to the main cabin because my other half has hidden one of the panels somewhere- so engine bay should stay warmish too. Anything else I need to do? Should I leave the shower and sink taps open or turn them off now the system is depressurised ? Going away with the taps left on feels really weird. Thank you!

We used the fireboard sold by midland chandlers in the end. It's insulation value is the best one included in the bs reg, best in that it lets through the least heat so that gap between it and stove can be smaller. It works out a bit cheaper than the victas board once vat and delivery is worked out.

Ah I think I'm an idiot. I seem to have converted from mm to m rather stupidly- am I actually looking at a ventilation area about 17.5cm by 17.5 cm? That's easier! I can have doors!

Hi everyone I'm trying to work out how much ventilation I need in the boat (just about to fit oven, hob and stove). I've used the formula on the boat safety site but seem to have come out needing a lot, would someone mind telling me if I have this right and if so how they have achieved this? Formula: (2200x u) + (650xp) + (550 x h) = mm2 (2200x 12.1)+ ( 650 x 2) + (550 x 4) So 26620 + 1300 + 2200 = 30,120 mm2 12.1 is oven at 4.8 and hob at 7.7 P, there are 2 of us 4 is the power of the solid fuel stove. So I seem to need just over 3m2 of ventilation. Is that right? It seems like rather a lot? I have 4 mushroom vents, and a solar ventilator. I currently don't have back doors but would really like some but it looks like I can only have the frame! Help, I must have miscalculated somewhere?