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Onewheeler

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Everything posted by Onewheeler

  1. ...and put a pressure gauge on the PRV or nearby. It will help diagnose what's wrong when wrongness happens.
  2. Sealed it is then. One less thing to maintain. Can't grumble at the lifetime of those batteries, I'm on the fourth set in my NB in much the same period.
  3. It's time to replace the starter batteries on our shared boat. The old ones (Varta) are nineteen years old, their electrolyte looks like soup, and although they are still working their capacity is getting low. So, sealed or unsealed? (If the new ones last as long as the old ones, none of the current owners will be in a state to care!)
  4. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/live/uk-england-bristol-47747975?ns_mchannel=social&ns_source=twitter&ns_campaign=bbc_live&ns_linkname=5cb06b6656005706757d6f6e%26Fish rescued ahead of canal and river lock repairs%262019-04-12T11%3A12%3A11.619Z&ns_fee=0&pinned_post_locator=urn:asset:31988330-5c61-465c-a5fe-eda87c545386&pinned_post_asset_id=5cb06b6656005706757d6f6e&pinned_post_type=share
  5. Yes, it looks like that frmo the Q&As on Screwfix site. Looks like it would do the stuff. Butyl tape. Ta!
  6. If you have a pressure gauge attached to the PRV on your calorifier, check what it's reading. If you don't have one, they're cheap and worth installing to help with problems like this. If you don't have a PRV, stand well back!
  7. Ta! I await with bated breath the input of another expert. Don't bother photoing it, a picture of a piece of tape doesn't sound very exciting (unless it has the name of the product on the side, in which case a photo may not be necessary)!!
  8. What squashy tape stuff would that be then? It sounds promising...
  9. One of our channel glaze windows has been quietly leaking for a while, leaving some rotten wood to repair. Looks like the sealant between frame and hull has failed. I'll be taking the window out (assuming the screws release) and refitting it when weather and time permit. What's the recommended sealant? I'm thinking of Sikaflex EBT+ . Martin/
  10. Your pump has a built in pressure switch which should cut out at about 2 bar. If there's water in the tank and it's not pouring out somewhere, it could be that the NRV in the pump isn't seating and any pressure is seeping back to the water tank. Or the pump is otherwise defective and it's never getting up to pressure.
  11. My water tank has just emptied into the bilge. The filter on the pump inlet somehow managed to undo itself. The two halves are secured by a sort of bayonet fitting without a final 'clicky bit' to stop it undoing without a push. B'stard.
  12. I'm still on the first canister for our compressed air horn after twenty years. It's loud enough to scare the missus at the other end of the boat and cost peanuts.
  13. Hard to keep everything together with only two hands! The vice only keeps it steady while you wield the spanners.
  14. Flomasta PTFE Liquid 50g (5321J) from Screwfix.
  15. They're not that tight. No problem with a vice and a couple of spanners. Use proper lpg gunge (sorry, can't think of the name!) to seal the joints.
  16. If the plumbing is as I imagine and the engine thermostat is knackered in the open position (or missing) the skin tank might be sufficient a short circuit across the calorifier coil to prevent an airlock clearing. Even so I'd be surprised if running the engine balls-out didn't generate enough head to blow it through. Martin/
  17. +1 for that. We have a 1 kW PSW / 2 kW peak which has run well and to spec for several years. Reasonable price and there's always something on special offer.
  18. Is that high level cutout permanent or does it reset like a normal 'stat when the temperature drops?
  19. As an alternative you might like to consider an external immersion heater, which connects between the cold feed and top outlet of your calorifier (as close to the tank as possible), fitted with a 1 kW or whatever element. Google "Willis heater" (pronounced Will-iss). It would save having to extract the blanking plug. Martin/
  20. You may find (almost certainly will) that the blanking plug is scaled in and an utter bastard to remove. A blowlamp helps.
  21. I've not looked at a Beta starter closely (and won't be able to look at mine until Sunday) but it might be the contacts in the starter solenoid that have corroded. On my old BMC engine that was easy to remove and test off the engine. It's the bit to which the big and small + cables are connected. The bolts should be accessible.
  22. Report to Action Fraud and sit back to enjoy the entertainment?
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