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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Strettonman

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  1. Not sure anyone is really interested but here is my attempt so far. I lined the foam covered calorifier with tin foil and then built up 2 sections of slight loose bubble wrap and injected fire retardant foam to create about a 1” layer. Once (sort of) set I put on 3 sections of very loose bubble wrap to create a second layer another couple of inches thick. I’d ordered 1m wide bubble wrap but it was out of stock so they gave me several 30cm wide rolls. This was actually better for getting the foam in. the only problem is it is taking days for the foam to set as the air can’t get to it. next step will be cover it with foil backed laminate underlay and then sort the plumbing end and lag the inlet and outlet pipes. I’ll certainly be shutting off and opening taps as a matter of routine over the winter and may even do a partial drain down if i need to leave it when it is really cold.
  2. That’s excellent - thanks everyone. It looks like I’ll be spending this evening on eBay. cheers.
  3. I’ve currently got an unlimited data package sim in an old smartphone used as a hotspot when we’re onboard. The signal is often ‘patchy’ so I am wondering whether a proper mobile router would be a better solution. I’ve currently only got 12v power so I guess I’ll need the right lead/converter if I use a router designed for the home. Also are there any tips on getting the best signal (router location, additional external antenna ....)
  4. The calorifier is in the engine bay of a cruiser deck so I little exposed. I am in the middle of rethinking the layout and may put the kitchen at the back so could quite easily move the calorifier inside but I suspect this might end up being next spring.
  5. This is great stuff all - thanks. Sorry for a late response - a common boating problem (or joy😊) - lack of signal. I’ve routed the pipes to the engine that seem to prevent siphoning and I’ve also got a manual valve to shut it off if need be. While I want to maintain heat over night my main concern is freezing in the winter. We live aboard part time normally 3 days most weeks so my main concern is to minimise the risk of damage between visits and not have to drain down the system every time I think there is going to be a cold spell. obviously if the forecast is sub zero for weeks I might have to drain down but want to avoid this as much as possible. The bubble wrap and foam idea sounds interesting. As space is at a premium have you any idea how efficient this is compared with just foam for say a 2” covering. I think maybe a final wrap of foil backed matting might also be on the cards.
  6. My calorifier is in the engine bay and I’m considering how to add additional lagging. I’ve seen posts about adding jackets and wrapping in celotex sheets but was also considering creating some sort of cylindrical frame and using expanding insulation foam and wrapping the cylinder in aluminium foil. The foil would not only reflect back the heat but also enable me to get the foam off the cylinder if it all goes horribly wrong 😛. any ideas on which gives the best insulation per inch of thickness as space is at a premium.
  7. Ouch - just looked on eBay and it looks like anything from £150 up to £300+.
  8. How go I go about choosing a new alternator controller? I have 2x120Ah leisure batteries and have room for a third (which I am considering). I will shortly be adding a couple of solar panels. we generally live aboard for part of the week and in the summer boat most days and in the winter a few hours every fortnight - not that all that info will make much difference I suspect. also are they easy to fit (or should I say difficult to screw up) ?
  9. Thanks the switch doesn’t jump back. I will give acorn a call and spend a little time reading those other threads. I’m about to add solar so I may well bite the bullet and replace the alternator controller to something from this century. Thanks.
  10. Can anyone tell me what the switch in the side of the kestrel 90 alternator control does (see pic). I have no idea whether it should be up or down and I’ve just swapped out my batteries so I want to make sure it is not in a mode that might damage them over time. i gather there are all sorts of fancy modes for charging as the batteries reach close to capacity so suspect the switch may be related to this. any ideas ?
  11. Wow - thanks everyone for these very detailed responses. As I suspected, it is clearly not a case of buy a piece of kit and all will become clear. I’ll spend a little time today trying to get my head around your advice and will certainly come back with further questions. Thanks very much.
  12. I am considering fitting a solar panel system and just wondered how you monitor the state of charge of the batteries. I presume there is a monitor I can buy or it is integrated with the controller but how do they work ? Do they measure energy in and out and then estimate the SoC ? If so it guess some will be better than others so does anyone recommend a particular unit ?
  13. Thanks all, looks like I’m off to get a spare just in case and then try A bit of hood old brute force with my fingers crossed. cheers
  14. I unfortunately left a slightly bent ignition key in the key box and my better half tried to use it to start the engine (see photo). It worked fine but because of the slight bent at the shoulder of the key it is now stuck in the barrel. I’ve been reluctant to force it as it may snap off on the barrel and I will then be unable to start the engine. I’ve tried WD40 with no joy. any ideas?
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