Iain_S

If the "32G" is threads per inch, the thread is either 3/16" BSF or No.10 UNF, which is near enough 3/16" (half a thou over, according to my thread tables). The difference between them is the angle the thread is cut at, 60 degrees for UNF and 55 degrees for BSF. (5/32 BSW is also 32 t.p.i., which agrees with your thread gauge. If you look at the gauge with stud engaged, closely (with a magnifying glass if necessary) the difference in thread angle should be obvious) Rather than replacing the studs, can you replace the bracket with a couple of washers to take up the extra stud length? (Or have I picked up the problem wrong? ) Iain

Possibly the cables shorting to the engine block. Temperature gauges certainly go to maximum with a short : not sure about oil oil pressure, though. Some, at least, go to zero with a short. Iain

Agreed. This chart suggests a possible 0.4V between copper and steel. Iain

For our canal society trip boat, the BSS surveyor said he could not accept a gas certificate, unless he witnessed the test being carried out. We fitted a bubble tester! (I have since wondered whether, if he saw me (not gas registered, but not paid either) doing the test, that would be acceptable??? )

Makes it soft again Iain

Where it MIGHT score is in locks, where an electric motor will be more efficient through not using power when in "neutral". (I'm thinking parallel hybrid, last option on page Although I suppose you could achieve greater savings by switching off a conventional engine and bow hauling though the locks Iain

We've had the vermiculite ones in for a good couple of years now. Lasting well! Iain

The manual (Page 60)lists 3200 as max no load rpm, The max. power outputs are stated as measured at 3000 rpm. However, your installation may not achieve this, as it is common for canal boats to be slghtly overpropped. The limiting factor may be engine cooling. Copperkins has a Vetus 4.17, and, before we got the cooling sorted, 2000 was the max continuous useable rpm, Any more, and it would overheat. I don't think we quite make 3000, though, due to the propellor gearing. Usually runs 1000 to 1200 on canals. (I'm sure a co-owner will be along in a minute to berate me for speeding ) Gamebird has a Vetus M2.04, which is not strictly comparable. Max. rpm for this is listed as 4000; she will get to 3500, and has run at that for several hours at a time without any problem. (Respectable canal cruising speed is 1500 - 2000 rpm) Iain

Even if the selector "O" ring has been replaced, it's worth checking again. The PRM on Copperkins had to have it done twice: I suspect that the first time the new ring was slightly undersize. Our leak from the selector was difficult to spot : apart from a smear of oil left on a finger rubbed under the selector, and a very small amount on the casing, there was little trace of a leak, although it was enough to drop the gearbox oil level enough to stop the box working in about a week. Iain

With the tiller?? Iain

It's called a CO2fire extinguisher Iain

If the relay is a "Small black box", it may not be man enough for the job. See Gibbo's relevant page. On the other hand, the flashing green light on the Smartgauge suggests a Smartbank is fitted, so this MAY be the small black box. However, I don't think they have push on connections; if I remember correctly, Smartbank has screwed connections inside the box. Iain

Batteries a bit flatter than usual? Iain

Assuming the problem is getting it free from its bracket: Are the bolts removed?(usually two on the bracket and one in the adjustment slot) The only potential problem I can think of is the split bush, usually fitted through the rear alternator bolt hole, which can wear a groove in the rear bracket. Usually, no problem, as a bit of sideways movement is enough to release the alternator, but in an extreme cases, the bush may need moved a bit. Exact method (i.e. where to hit it ) depends on exactly how the alternator locates on its bracket. Iain

I'm involved with a ship restoration (ex Fisheries Research Vessel, built 1955) and there is a centrifugal diesel/water separator built in. It can draw from either, or both, of the diesel tanks, but the discharge only goes to one. Diesel capacity is 8000 litres a side! (We have only test run it so far, as the tank it discharges to is currently out of commission ) Iain

When the time comes to replace the flue, it is worth while to make the joint between flue and roof collar as near to a sliding joint as possible. I have used the fibreglass rope sold for the purpose, plus a bead of silicon. If this joint is solid, the stove heats up, the flu expands, and something gives. (In our case, it was the roof collar ) Iain

I'm not too confident about that: the water collected has run over the cooling coil, washing off dust on the way and finally mixing with whatever is in the collecting bucket, I had the same idea with ours, until I tasted the water : distinctly metallic, and a fair proportion of solid matter. (Which could be filtered out, but the result would still fail the taste test ) Iain

Especially the little one in the electric fuel pump. Iain

Smartgauge purchased from Merlin includes in line fuses. Also, fusing is mentioned in Gibbo's User guide, available in PDF from HERE, Iain

Very true. I'm amazed at the relative number of narrowboats in Scotland, where there aren't any narrow locks. Even Scottish Canals are using an ex-hire narrowboat as their showhouse/boat. Iain

I assume it didn't just fall off a bicycle? I have had the "traditional" mattress round the prop, let's ban beds! Iain