Jen-in-Wellies

You've cracked the code! Can you narrow it down a bit? Where are you based? How far are you prepared to cruise to reach the painter? Out of cheap, good, fast, which ones are more of a priority? You won't get all of three! One colour, with coach lines, or several colours? Jen

That 950g of water does not exist within the litre of LPG, it is made during the burning by taking oxygen out of the air and combining it with the hydrogen atoms in the propane. You get CO2 as well from combining oxygen from the air with the carbon in the propane. UK LPG is near 100% propane. In other countries, there are varying proportions of propane and butane, which may vary by season too. There will be a little bit of water in there too, along with various other things, but it is a contaminant. It is the contaminant trace of water that is causing @system 4-50's problem. Might have had a bad cylinder with more water in than usual. Jen

You'd be surprised. Boaters know about off grid living, so there are sometimes people looking for advice for motor homes, cabins in the woods, even houses. Always better to give as much information as possible.

Likely rolled and supplied in longer lengths too and the boat builder would then cut off the length needed for each one and make the bends and holes in it. Hence, the rivet hole made right through the name (assuming the name is correct).

In addition, if it is on a boat, the fitter will need to have a boat qualification on their ticket. If you don't get a recommendation here, then you can use the gas safe register web site to search for people with suitable credentials. Follow this link for fitters with LPG and boat on their ticket in and around Lincoln. Then it is a matter of 'phoning round, when the process goes all 20th century again. https://www.gassaferegister.co.uk/find-an-engineer/find-by-location/?ep=1xPOGK1AdTeDy4hfLti5P3MNvEdJCT3UDOmrRrUTf9RFrSUahue0TaIOEZyDHve6P2BKpaIYfmNKZ7Bd86Pn9w%3d%3d Jen

Don't let the grass get too long, or you'll have to load the blunderbuss for elephant before venturing in to the garden. ?

Very much so. See subsequent discussion in the thread. It is now a Collie hat.

There are good reasons why so many boats have blue boxes in the electrical cabinet.

What sort of boat do you have? Power and speed will affect the planning, so if it is a typical narrowboat it won't be able to punch as swift a tide as @Naughty Cal could in their cruiser.

To complete the story, the boat needed divers to refloat it as even empty, the water in the lock is still deep. The owner stripped out and replaced the interior and still has and cruises the boat all these years later. A little more to the sinking than just inattention, but that was the root cause.

That could be significant. If the float switch was working earlier on while you were away and the pump was regularly removing water, then this could have discharged the battery. Once the battery was flat, then the pump might have struggled, leading to the amount of water you had to remove when you got the engine running. Moving the bilge pump on to the house batteries would be better as the current shore line charger will top them up in between pumping sessions. Jen

The important question is - Are the feet on a Hobbit stove hairy?

Rather, you want to radiators to be able to dissipate the heat that the back boiler can produce when the stove is going at full chat. So you want the rated power of all your radiators to match, or slightly exceed 1.2kW. If you have too few, or not big enough radiators, then you risk the water in the back boiler actually boiling, which is not a good thing. Exceeding 1.2kW of radiator area just means that each radiator won't be as warm, but overall, they will still give off 1.2kW maximum. Jen

It is definitely a narrow beam whale, so my guess is that it is trying to get to the Oxford Canal.

Showing the importance of checking there is enough water for your draft before navigating a waterway. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-london-57052331 Looks like it is on a slipway? I don't know the area at all, so don't know if this caused a stoppage. If so, it would be a most unusual one. Fingers crossed for the cetacean concerned.

And selling your Handy could even put you ahead.

Have you looked at Boatman Stoves at all? Inexpensive compared with a new squirrel and in some ways a better design. A couple of boating neighbours have had them. It is one I'd seriously consider. http://boatmanstove.co.uk/boatman-stove-new-colour-range Jen

It looks like the support for the front guard grid that stops the coals touching the door and glass and falling out when the door is open. They are fragile. One of them on mine is broken too. The front guard grid thing also appears to be missing. This slides on to the supports so it can be removed for cleaning ash out. Ask about this guard, or you'll need to buy another as it is important for safety. It should be possible to fabricate a new support for the guard if you are handy. Just noticed something much more important. There appear to be two pieces missing near the top of the front panel, to the left and right of the MORSO text. If so, then this stove is scrap. The top also does not appear to be bolted to the rest, but is just laid on skew wiff. Don't buy it. Jen

When I bought my Squirrel, around 14 years ago, I got the non-back boiler one, then added their back boiler. There were no blanking plates for the pipes to go through. Instead there were divots in the casting showing where the pipes were to go. These were drilled out with a hole saw to take the pipes. The thin convection plates on the back also had to be drilled. The rear fire brick and deflector plate were removed and the back boiler eased in to place, which was tricky, but doable. Back nuts on the pipes sealed the holes. Then the convection plates were refitted and the plumbing connections made. Jen

On the inside, or the outside of the stove?

Possibly. Depends on the stove it is going in. On a Morso Squirrel, the backboiler replaces a firebrick and a cast iron flue gas deflector. The fire bricks on the inside of the stove protect the cast iron, or steel plate from getting overheated and distorting from the burning coals. The water inside a back boiler have a similar effect as the heat carried away by circulation prevents the metal from overheating. You might fit this on the inside of the stove, then get the input and output pipes connected to the outside of the stove with bulkhead fittings. That is how I'd do it. It may be possible to fit the boiler on the outside of the stove and remove the fire brick in that area to allow the heat through. The back boiler would need to be in very good contact though to prevent the stove plate from overheating. How would you ensure this thermal contact was made and maintained? I've not seen this done, so don't know if it would be effective. Jen