Jen-in-Wellies

Rather, you want to radiators to be able to dissipate the heat that the back boiler can produce when the stove is going at full chat. So you want the rated power of all your radiators to match, or slightly exceed 1.2kW. If you have too few, or not big enough radiators, then you risk the water in the back boiler actually boiling, which is not a good thing. Exceeding 1.2kW of radiator area just means that each radiator won't be as warm, but overall, they will still give off 1.2kW maximum. Jen

It is definitely a narrow beam whale, so my guess is that it is trying to get to the Oxford Canal.

Showing the importance of checking there is enough water for your draft before navigating a waterway. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-london-57052331 Looks like it is on a slipway? I don't know the area at all, so don't know if this caused a stoppage. If so, it would be a most unusual one. Fingers crossed for the cetacean concerned.

And selling your Handy could even put you ahead.

Have you looked at Boatman Stoves at all? Inexpensive compared with a new squirrel and in some ways a better design. A couple of boating neighbours have had them. It is one I'd seriously consider. http://boatmanstove.co.uk/boatman-stove-new-colour-range Jen

It looks like the support for the front guard grid that stops the coals touching the door and glass and falling out when the door is open. They are fragile. One of them on mine is broken too. The front guard grid thing also appears to be missing. This slides on to the supports so it can be removed for cleaning ash out. Ask about this guard, or you'll need to buy another as it is important for safety. It should be possible to fabricate a new support for the guard if you are handy. Just noticed something much more important. There appear to be two pieces missing near the top of the front panel, to the left and right of the MORSO text. If so, then this stove is scrap. The top also does not appear to be bolted to the rest, but is just laid on skew wiff. Don't buy it. Jen

When I bought my Squirrel, around 14 years ago, I got the non-back boiler one, then added their back boiler. There were no blanking plates for the pipes to go through. Instead there were divots in the casting showing where the pipes were to go. These were drilled out with a hole saw to take the pipes. The thin convection plates on the back also had to be drilled. The rear fire brick and deflector plate were removed and the back boiler eased in to place, which was tricky, but doable. Back nuts on the pipes sealed the holes. Then the convection plates were refitted and the plumbing connections made. Jen

On the inside, or the outside of the stove?

Possibly. Depends on the stove it is going in. On a Morso Squirrel, the backboiler replaces a firebrick and a cast iron flue gas deflector. The fire bricks on the inside of the stove protect the cast iron, or steel plate from getting overheated and distorting from the burning coals. The water inside a back boiler have a similar effect as the heat carried away by circulation prevents the metal from overheating. You might fit this on the inside of the stove, then get the input and output pipes connected to the outside of the stove with bulkhead fittings. That is how I'd do it. It may be possible to fit the boiler on the outside of the stove and remove the fire brick in that area to allow the heat through. The back boiler would need to be in very good contact though to prevent the stove plate from overheating. How would you ensure this thermal contact was made and maintained? I've not seen this done, so don't know if it would be effective. Jen

Another option would be to get a small, 20W or so solar panel and connect it to the engine battery. No need for a charge controller with such a small panel. Will keep the starter batt trickle charged in the weak winter sunshine. A two output battery charger, or a second small mains trickle charger for the start batt would also do the trick, if you are on a shore lead much of the time. Have had to do the jump leads from the house to engine battery thing once to get going after the engine battery died. Is there anything connected to the engine battery all the time per chance, excluding the engine alternator? For example, a volt meter? Something that is drawing only a few milliamps can easily drain a starter battery if left connected for months. If there is, then move them down stream of the ignition key switch, so they only come on when the key is turned. Is there an auto bilge pump connected to the start battery, rather than the house one? If this has run a few times over the winter, again it could have drained the battery, if there is nothing to recharge it. Jen

Hopefully it will get sorted soon. That area tends to silt up, as I discovered. The EA have a sluice adjacent to the lock and run down a lot of water during the winter. The backwater to the bottom of the lock ends up with a lot of silt dropping out of suspension. My boat stuck on the bottom lock mud bank in 2013. I've removed a lot of heavy stuff, emptied the water tank and set up a 3:1 hauling Z-rig to try and pull the boat off the mud. All to on avail! Eventually freed by a combination of hauling, reverse prop and water run down from the top. Jen

As is usual with these things, a lot of hard work by the volunteers at the trust persuading various organisations to chip in. http://www.sleafordnavigation.co.uk/history/restoration/destination-south-kyme/ for example.

Really long term, the dust would increase engine wear, but otherwise no. Unless it was unlucky enough to eat a loose washer, or rock. What @Sir Nibble said above^^^^^.

As far as I can make out, there isn't one. The EA control water levels, but have no interest in navigation. The Sleaford Navigation Trust don't mention any requirements. You can only get there via the CaRT controlled Witham.

Went there in 2013. The silting at the winding holes and by the lock at the time made it real adventure boating, including a six mile reverse, followed by getting stuck on a mud bank overnight till some nice weed bashing contractors let down water to get the boat off! Now these problems have been fixed, then it is well worth a visit. As others have said, the locals in South Kyme are a friendly bunch. After the first lock raises you to the dizzying heights, you actually get a view of the countryside, rather than just of flood protection banks. OK, the view is of Lincolnshire flat land, but a view is a view. Jen

Also depends if the adjacent canal is built for wide, or narrowboats. Here, you can fit a narrow and a fatty boat between each jetty, but it is a wide canal. Two narrowboats between jetties gives lots of space between.

Incidentally, if you are finding the domes on the other VDO gauges are getting a bit scratched, we found polishing with toothpaste, followed by Brasso bought them back to near new condition. ?

A 52mm gauge needs a 52mm hole (surprise!) and is not going to fit in a 48.5mm hole without adjustment of the hole. Possibly a small flap wheel in an electric drill? I'd take everything out of the panel to protect them from the aluminium dust when opening up the hole. Jen

Is this the type of instrument, VDO made I think, where most of the gauge is underneath and just a transparent plastic dome protrudes through the metal plate? As opposed to the sort where a bezel sits on the outside of the panel. If so, then the hole diameter is 48.5mm to allow the plastic to pass through. This is smaller than the more standard 52mm size that allows the gauge body to pass through. I don't have one of these panels, but a couple of years ago I designed a new one for some friends to use their existing instruments in a replacement panel and I still have the drawings. If it is not this sort of gauge, then ignore. Jen