Farey

Sorry - I should have been clearer. The boat has a Aquadrive fitted, which fixes the shaft alighment. The movement only occurred after removing the Aquadrive so the shaft was then free to be slid in and out. The Volvo Penta seal does not have a water feed; it's one of these: https://www.yachtboatparts.com/volvo-penta-stern-glandspropeller-glands-5291-p.asp. I've greased it regularly, using a drinking straw to get the grease under the seal. I've no idea if the shaft was checked when the seal was replaced, but I would assume so. It was done by Calcutt Boats, who seem to know what they're doing. I wans't aware of the need for descaling; I presume that would require the removal of the seal? I'm not sure if it could be a factor, but last year I took the boat from Bristol to Sharpness, so it was in salt water for a while. What surprised me was how suddenly it happened - nothing one day then a steady drip the next.

Coming along the Leeds and Liverpool last month I developed a leak from the stern gland - a Volvo Penta rubber seal. The leak was significant - a steady drip amounting to 2 - 3 buckets of water a day and it started quite suddenly. I tried greasing it to no avail, so assumed the stern gland needed replacing - it was last done around 5 years ago. However, when the engineer looked at it he said the cause of the leak was wear on the prop shaft, which he showed me. Moving the prop shaft forward or back an inch or two stopped it. So the boat is waiting to have a new prop shaft fitted. What I'm wondering is what could have caused the prop shaft abrasion? Presumably sand ot grit must have somehow got into the seal, but how?

I've just done the journey in a 60' narrowboat. We went North Oxford, Coventry, Trent and Mersey, Bridgewater and Leeds and Liverpool. We did it in 2 stages, 1 week to Middlewich (5 adults plus a child), then 10 days Middlewich to Leeds with 7 adults on board. We had time to go up the Rufford Branch of the L&L too. Lots of restricted opening times on the L&L, and lots of swing bridges which are prone to breaking down. We got held up once by a broken swing bridge, but only for a few hours. Then I had to leave the boat at Rodley on the edge of Leeds because of a leaking stern gland (prop shaft needs replacing ☹️).

I've moored at Ventnor for 15 years. Nice spot and staff are very friendly. Was owned by Castle Marina for many years, but they recently merged with Aquavista. I've had various jobs done by Calcutt Boats over the years; they're also very friendly and helpful, and I've been happy with the work done.

I need to replace the damaged propeller on my 60' narrowboat. I've exchanged emails with Clements Engineering, who wanted to know details about my boat and engine. I then talked to my local boatyard, who recommended Michigan Marine, who seem to be considerably cheaper. Does anyone have any experience of either?

The excess water seems to be a pure mix of water and antifreeze, so I don't think it's water getting in ... and if the coolant was under presure when the engine was running, how would it? And when it cools, the water level is also high. In response to another comment, I've had the boat for 16 years and never seen this before.

I went out on the boat for 2 weeks in August, and was getting a coolant leak from the radiator cap and had to top up the water daily. At the end of the trip I replaced the cap, drained down the coolant and refilled it with an antifreeze/water mix. The coolant level seemed correct, just below the cap and and between the Max/Min level in the expansion bottle. Then I went out last weekend for 3 days, and at the end of each day the coolant level in the expansion bottle was way over Max, and over the course of 3 days several litres of coolant were ejected into the bilges. At the end of each day I checked the level and removed any excess water to take it down to the Max mark. The engine is a 16 year old Vetus M4.17. I'm baffled as to what's going on?

We just finished a 2 week trip doing the Thames loop. Very busy down the South Oxford, then quiet down the Thames to Limehouse and up the Regents and GU until we got to around Milton Keynes, then it got very busy again, especially going through Braunston.

How long do they typically take to repair a lock beam? I was hoping to go through there this weekend doing the London loop, and may have to change my plans.

I'd recommend getting it sprayfoamed inside. I bought a sailaway in 2005. Interior was sprayfoamed with ballast and flooring down. I fitted out myself in a marina with power, working on it 2 - 3 days a week, and it took about 18 months to fit out.

I enjoyed Ian Grieve's letter on this in the Guardian today: https://www.theguardian.com/food/2021/mar/28/an-unwelcome-sign-of-spring-in-the-air

I'm confused. I took my boat for maintenance in November. Can I retrieve it and take it back to where I normally moor it, if it involves a 100 mile drive and 2 hours cruising?

Thanks for the various answers. To clarify, it is a Volvo Penta cutless bearing, and the prop has 3 blades, and although I don't post very often, I've been a member since 2005.

I discovered some damage to my prop (it's an Axiom, fitted in 2011, but I'm not looking to start another discussion on Axiom props). A small chunk, about 1 x 3 cm, is missing from one blade. I haven't noticed any significant vibration, but am concerned that it may unbalance the prop and put extra strain on the prop shaft and bearing. Any views?

Here's a few photos showing the situation this morning: https://photos.app.goo.gl/LwzCz7XRQQCGySPs8

It's a while ago now, but I had my boat at Saltford until I moved away 12 years ago. While there I used Mark Loveday - he did a service and BSS examination, and seemed quite knowledgeable. You could try giving him a call - 07768 474581.

I've had a Thermotop C for 14 years, and it's very prone to cutting out if the battery voltage drops slightly (despite having good, well charged batteries). I talked to the dealer, and was told this was a problem using it on boats, but that the newer models had fixed the problem.

I prefer aluminium, because they do less damage if you accidently knock something, such as the paintwork on the boat or a camera.

We went there for a drink last week, and it was ok - a lot better than a few years ago. But we didn't eat, so I've no idea about the food.

We're sitting in the Fountain Inn. No trouble at all on the N Stratford. Down through Wolverhampton and on the Shropshire Union tomorrow.

We're at Tipton, came up today from Hatton via the North Stratford and through Brades locks without incident (apart from having to clear the prop several times). Very quiet - saw very few other boats on the move.

My boat's due for another BSS examination in March - has anything changed since last time? Looking at the BSS site, they seem to want a CO detector now? Seems like a good idea... Also, can anyone recommend an examiner in the Napton area?

So that fact that it's passed 3 BSS inspections by 3 different examiners would seem to suggest that the flame pattern is ok.

I don't have a test point in the system, just a bubble tester, but was thinking of adding one.

I fitted out my 60' narrowboat myself 13 years ago. I have a 4 burner gas hob and a gas grill and oven, in the galley, and no other gas appliances. I used 3/8" (external diameter) gas pipe and fitting, and took advice and had the installation checked by a boat safety examiner. It's also passed all its subsequent BSS checks. Recently I've been thinking of replacing the hob, and looking into it, I'm now wondering if 3/8" pipe is adequate. The total KW rating is 9 (4 x 1.5 for the hob, and 1.5 each for the grill and oven). Looking at pipe sizing calculations, e.g. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/propane-gas-pipe-sizing-d_830.html it looks as if I need pipe with a 3/8" inch internal diameter, corresponding to 1/2" external, given that my total pipe run is around 5 metres, with several 90 degree bends. Am I correct? If so, I would expect this to apply to most narrowboats to need 1/2" pipe, but 3/8" seems much more common in the chandlers, and 1/2" fittings seem few and far between. If this is the case, then my preference would be to just replace the long, 4 metre pipe run and keep the rest as 3/8".